Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

[sstone]

1990 Cobra 5.7L shifts very smoothly and easily into gear in our out of water, and out of gear easily only out of the water. Checked the esa switch and it stumbles the engine, so that doesnt work. Watched the actuator (I think that's its name, the part with the little notches on it that hits the switch arm) while shifting and it works backwards from how it should. Hits the switch when shifting into gear, barely hits it coming out. Cables were just adjusted and I don't see a problem with them binding or anything, seems like the actuator is just angled a little off of where it should be. It goes right into gear, forward and reverse. What's the fix for this?

 

[projo198]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

Your cable isnt binded up anywhere, is it? I just had a similar problem, I had zip tied 2 cables together to stop one from touching the exhaust manifold and it was not activating the notched arm both ways. I haven't tried it in water yet, but there was a noticeable change just shifting without the motor on.

 

[sstone]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

Not that I can tell. It moves pretty easily. How should I check to be sure?

 

[projo198]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

As you shift in and out of gear you should see your lower shift cable rock up and down. With mine secured there was no movement at all. I'm guessing if it was twisted or coiled right somewhere between the bracket and the transom it would be the same effect.

 

[sstone]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

While engine running or not? Poking around I noticed some lateral movement on the lower cable where it goes through the actuator, moves port to starboard like 1-2mm. But it's lined up straight behind the forward mount point. If i tightened it down it'd be slightly outta line.

 

[projo198]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

Without, although it really doesn't work like it should with the boat out of water.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

Without, although it really doesn't work like it should with the boat out of water.

Doing these tests with the engine not running is worthless. Really should be in the water too.

If the actuator is not lined up when in neutral, either your cable was never adjusted properly or the cable is failing. How old is the cable?

 

[sstone]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

No idea but it has little use. Possibly the original, it's the red one. However the boat has only 119 hours. The actuator is lined up in neutral, and doesn't move unless played with by hand.
How does this system work, how does it move the actuator and how can I adjust it's travel, I feel that's the only thing that isn't working, as the cable is clean and straight, and shifts easily. A new cable may be in my future but for now I'd like to just get it working

 

[projo198]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

No idea but it has little use. Possibly the original, it's the red one. However the boat has only 119 hours. The actuator is lined up in neutral, and doesn't move unless played with by hand.
How does this system work, how does it move the actuator and how can I adjust it's travel, I feel that's the only thing that isn't working, as the cable is clean and straight, and shifts easily. A new cable may be in my future but for now I'd like to just get it working

I think I can answer a few of those.

If the cable is red then it isn't the original, that's good. The system works by the cable tension moving the arm, which then causes the actuator (with the wheel on it) to rise to the top of one of the teeth. This presses in on the interruptor switch stalling the motor and allowing the drive to drop into neutral with less load.

The only way to really adjust the actuator is by bending it's arm. The switch itself is fixed in place by 2 screws to the plate, and isn't adjustable.

But like Bruce said, if it is off there may be other things to check first. If you can take a peek at where the lower shift cable goes into the outboard on the starboard side. If you turn your wheel all the way to the left and have your trim up it should be pretty easy to see. This is where it gets torn and causes shifting issues.

Bruce knows more about this than I do though, the only reason I can speak on it right now is because I have been working the same damn issues for weeks since I bought this boat!

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

No idea but it has little use. Possibly the original, it's the red one. However the boat has only 119 hours.

Doesn't matter. Its 22 years old. If you ever stored your drive up for a long period of time, that will also contribute to a short life.

I had to replace the shift cable on my Volvo drive after 70 hours and 2 years because it got locked up by being in salt water.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

I think I can answer a few of those.

If the cable is red then it isn't the original, that's good.!

Projo. He has a 1990. That was after the recall so his model likely came with the red cable from the start.

 

[sstone]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

What about the arm that moves the actuator? Can its position be adjusted so that it travels further when pulling out of gear? As of now it moves a little when coming out of gear but not enough to activate the switch. Seems that if I could get it to sit closer to activating the switch then it actually will hit when it comes out of gear. Also the cable where it goes into the out drive has no tears, folds, kinks, or the like. It's been kept out of water, drive almost fully down.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

What about the arm that moves the actuator? Can its position be adjusted so that it travels further when pulling out of gear? As of now it moves a little when coming out of gear but not enough to activate the switch. Seems that if I could get it to sit closer to activating the switch then it actually will hit when it comes out of gear. Also the cable where it goes into the out drive has no tears, folds, kinks, or the like. It's been kept out of water, drive almost fully down.

The switch's roller needs to sit exactly in the center of the center groove when in neutral. Put the boat in the water and watch the mechanism while someone shifts from gear into neutral. If the roller actually rises up on the cam and doesn't trigger the ESA, its possible that the switch is defective.

 

[sstone]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

The switch works, I've already tested that. Best I can tell is the arm doesn't move far enough on the notch to activate the switch. I suppose I could bend the switch actuator a little so that it takes less to activate.

 

[Boats-A-lots]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

Doesn't matter. Its 22 years old. If you ever stored your drive up for a long period of time, that will also contribute to a short life.

I had to replace the shift cable on my Volvo drive after 70 hours and 2 years because it got locked up by being in salt water.

Bruce, How did the salt lock up your cable.. I mean, how did the salt get into your cable. I use my boat 99.9% in salt water, and for 6 yrs no problem at all. Then when my cable did lock up, it wasn't the cable at all, it was the shifter rod that was gummed up with salt. Now that the cable is replaced again are you saying there is a good chance I will have to replace the cable that often using the boat is salt water?

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

Was like that when I bought my boat as I bought it used with 70 hours on it.

The OMC cables always just failed after a certain time. I replaced the lower shift cable on my OMC 3 or 4 times from when I bought it in 1989 until when I sold it in 2002. First cable replacement was done under the recall as was the dog gears. Drive was always stored down.

 

[Boats-A-lots]

Re: Shift Actuator vs ESA switch

My shop installed cable only lasted about 4 boating trips. (but 3 yrs on the boat) It was kinked up inside the plastic holder. If I ever have to replace this cable again, I"m going to have one made up, and have the inner cable strong enough to lift the Titanic. Though it was my shifter rod that caused the problem with the cable in the first place I'm sure. There was no sign of water at all in the lower, but there was a ton of junk on the shifter rod, and the bearing housing was corroded with salt.