Re: skegguard or new skeg ???
You have nothing to lose, so here goes...<br /><br />You need two large hammers. One will be doing the pounding, the other will be an anvil. Hold one on the backside of the bend as you moderately pound on the skeg. Move things around. Hit an inch or two away from the anvil, that's what does the bending a tiny bit at a time. Don't hit in the same place all the time and work from the thin part up to the thick part. Don't try to pound it out in a few whacks. Take your time. 5 - 10 minutes usually does it. Really bad ones take a little longer. Wear Safety Glasses!<br /><br />If it's really bent, it may bust. If there's a crack, it will bust. If you hit it too hard, it'll bust. And if you don't use something on the backside to absorb the shock wave, it'll bust. Welds bust off, too.<br /><br />My preferred set is a hand-held sledge for the anvil and a medium sized plastic dead-blow. Other things work as anvils if you don't have an appropriate hammer, but that hand ends up getting the shockwave too.<br /><br />If Beaver Dam isn't too far away for you, I'll do it for a 12-pack.

The other remedies end up costing about the same once you figure labor and welding. The skeg guard is faster, just requires a few holes. The skeg repair is stronger and thinner to slice the water better.<br /><br />In our neck of the woods, the water that collects in the hollow skeg guard freezes and expands the skeg guard. If you go that route, take it off each fall or fill the void with silicone.