Solder and heat shrink vs. crimp and tape

[StarTed]

I find these comments interesting and informative although sometimes quite biased.

That said, I spent a week at a Boeing school on soldering connections back in the '60s and I still remember some of it.

I don't solder crimp connectors. I prefer to seal the ends of open ones with liquid tape.

The main problem I see with crimp connectors is the quality of connectors and also the quality of the crimp tools. A connector not crimped tight enough will pull apart. A connector crimped too tight will fail as well. The problem is getting the crimp just right with the cheap tools. You never know. By the way, the expensive tools need to be tested regularly to verify they're within specs. If everything is right the crimp connection is hard to beat.

Solder on the other hand is very operator dependent. A good operator making the solder connection can expect long life from the work.

Anything that vibrates should be supported close to the rigid connection.

I've experienced thermal checks on aluminum wire crimped with the wrong press (too tight) and the connection failed the thermal testing. When crimped with the correct tool the thermal testing (many heat and cool cycles) passed just fine.

I think we can beat this good horse into the ground.

 

[Benny67]

I think we can beat this good horse into the ground.

agreed...

I just found it quite funny when I went back to actually doing some work here instead of reading these posts and came across that bad crimp...I almost crapped myself laughing.

 

[bruceb58]

Ok Benny67 ...show us a picture of your production hardware where you are using soldered connections on wires

 

[bruceb58]

agreed...

I just found it quite funny when I went back to actually doing some work here instead of reading these posts and came across that bad crimp...I almost crapped myself laughing.

Looks like the assembly supervisor needs to have the people doing the assembly work take some training!

 

[Pusher]

Good way of summing it up StarTed.

I like the idea of heat shrink because it absorbs some of the vibration and also provides a nicer radius when the wires are under higher stress. I started heat shrinking the connectors on my wife's Iphone chargers because I was tired of them splitting out. I'm an android guy of course

So having read all of this I am left worse off than when I started. I am planning on rewiring my boat trailer this summer and was just going to go to Harbor Freight for the wire and connectors. Glitchy trailer wires are possibly my biggest pet peeve right after fishing partners that bring four rods for a half day of fishing in a boat that only has room for four rods......sorry, off topic.

Does "tinned" indicate each strand of copper has a anti-corrosive coating? What wire should I be buying?

Connectors... some are trash and some are gold? What connectors should I be buying?

Sealant inside of the connectors.... Silicone's are corrosive? Would Vaseline work better?

I'm totally confused but glad I found this thread. Good ideas guys.

BTW I've seen both soldered and crimped connections behind the aircraft panels. Seems like the soldering is actually favored over the crimping, but what crimping we did do was with a gear (or camm'ed?) crimping tool. First crimp I did sold me on its value. That reminds me.... adding that to the tool bucket list.

 

[bruceb58]

Does "tinned" indicate each strand of copper has a anti-corrosive coating? What wire should I be buying?

Go here and buy their tinned wire. Every strand is tinned. Yes, expensive and I use this for my boat and trailer.
http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-w...e-primary-wire

You want to buy the crimp connectors with the heat activated adhesives like the Anchor or these:
http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-e...rink-terminals

Buy the proper crimper....No Harbor Freight!

 

[thumpar]

I started soldering when I was 10 or 11. When I was in my early teens I got into R/C cars so I did a lot of soldering. In high school I was able to go to college electronics under a program. We had very nice Weller solder stations with solder sucker on them. You need to learn to do it to get a lasting bond. The mistake a lot of people make is the kind of solder they use and the iron they use. I like to have some silver in my solder. Flux is a must when you need it to flow. Weller is my favorite iron. I use a 25w for small stuff and 35 from bigger stuff. A few years ago I had a hot air station and did BGA rework and using wire wrap. That is where it gets fun.

 

[bruceb58]

This is the soldering station I use for my home use. You can change tips easily.
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-...s=Weller+WES51

 

[Benny67]

Looks like the assembly supervisor needs to have the people doing the assembly work take some training!

Unit dates back to 1981...a bit before my times..

 

[Benny67]

I use Elvo Soldering stations with the clean o point sponges...I?m not gonna snap pictures of my station cause people will think I?m weirder than I actually am..

https://www.google.com/search?q=elv...=YpmjV8a7KsvgjwTq75_gBQ#imgrc=hipA7QZK_to_VM:

 

[Pusher]

Go here and buy their tinned wire. Every strand is tinned. Yes, expensive and I use this for my boat and trailer.
http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-w...e-primary-wire

You want to buy the crimp connectors with the heat activated adhesives like the Anchor or these:
http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-e...rink-terminals

Buy the proper crimper....No Harbor Freight!

Thanks Bruce! That's actually affordable. I was fearing a much higher checkout price from the way you guys were talking. And 16 gauge is thick enough?

 

[bruceb58]

Thanks Bruce! That's actually affordable. I was fearing a much higher checkout price from the way you guys were talking. And 16 gauge is thick enough?

Yes. 16 or 14 are both fine.

When I rewired my trailer, I used one of these near the tongue and made all the connections at the junction box. Just need to add ring connectors at the end of your wire runs and attach there.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[JASinIL2006]

Yes. 16 or 14 are both fine.

When I rewired my trailer, I used one of these near the tongue and made all the connections at the junction box. Just need to add ring connectors at the end of your wire runs and attach there.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dang, that is really helpful. I'm rewiring my trailer this winter and the junction of all those wires left me with a messy umbilical cord when I first did the job. I need to get one of those junction boxes.

 

[bruceb58]

Dang, that is really helpful. I'm rewiring my trailer this winter and the junction of all those wires left me with a messy umbilical cord when I first did the job. I need to get one of those junction boxes.

It's awesome. Someone else on here gave me the idea. I have the added issue that I have an electric over hydraulic brake unit so even more wires go to that box.

 

[Oshkosh1]

I've got tied and taped splices on a couple 20 year old trailers that still work fine...not the proper method, but it works. Even have a couple held together with wire nuts which have survived more than 5 years of constant exposure to the weather. Again...no style points but they work just fine and no special tools required.

 

[Patfromny]

I've got tied and taped splices on a couple 20 year old trailers that still work fine...not the proper method, but it works. Even have a couple held together with wire nuts which have survived more than 5 years of constant exposure to the weather. Again...no style points but they work just fine and no special tools required.

They work fine until they dont. Next time your near your trailer, try and take one of those wire nuts off. Bet the wire breaks off before the nut let's go. Not how I'd want to trailer my boat for the four hour trip. I'd always be worried the lights didn't work when I hit the brake or turned on the blinker. Your boat, your choice but not good advice bud. Wire nuts are meant for interior work. I wouldn't use them on anything but home wiring to be honest. I can't believe they come with trailer kits. I guess because they want to sell more kits more often?

 

[thumpar]

Wire nuts are also meant for solid core wire.

 

[Oshkosh1]

I'm not advising anyone. Simply stating what I've seen and done...and how long they've lasted. Some of my "fixes" were done under the "temporary" pretense and figured I'd make them more permanent when I got the chance. I'm sure I had the chance but most of them have worked for 10+ years. Yeah...I know wire nuts are for interior and solid core...it's what I had and although it looks like hell the trailer that mess is supporting still works just fine for close to a decade. Wire nuts, grease and high quality electrical tape. I've also had OEM harnesses fail in half that time. As a matter of fact, the only component which failed was at the sealed connector not the ad hoc splice.

Sometimes it's not what you use, it's how well you use what you have. A simple but secure hand braided splice and an impervious seal will last a long time, is strong and requires nothing but a bit of practice. I don't trust most of the cheap crimps, or their ability to seal long term.

As it's said..."Whatever floats your boat"!

 

[fireship1]

I agree.... Marine grade heat shrink and soldering makes a permanent connection. Do it right the first time, and do it only once!

 

[SkaterRace]

I like crimp and heat shrink as I find that lasts the longest and the least issues.