Sputtering Johnson V4 90hp - 1994

[jimmbo]

Yeah I get all that jimmbo . Is the afore mentioned bonehead still allowed to fit his uscg approved fuel line himself ? Just that Im thinkin that its the fitting of the fuel line rather than the line itself thats likely to give rise to any safety issues

A Service Shop, certainly will not use Noncompliance Parts, at least any Competent and Ethical Shop. As for Do-it-Yourselfers... Insurance Companies can and will deny Claims, including Liability if a non USCG certified Part, caused a Problem. And they are pretty good at finding things like that out, as a lot of Do-it-Yourselfers go around shooting their Mouths off about how well they Maintain and Repair their Boats themselves, and even more so when they are crowing about how much Money they save by just using Parts they got at O'Reilly's, instead of at the Dealership, 'Cause to them', the only difference is that Dealer is just marking up the same Part...

 

[jimmbo]

If it's #1 that is the Problem, try to get a look at the Top of the Block, for Oil. I am mentioning this cause if the Upper Crankshaft Seal is worn, Oil can get out, more important though, is that Air can get in, leaning the Top Cylinder.

 

[Mc Tool]

A Service Shop, certainly will not use Noncompliance Parts, at least any Competent and Ethical Shop. As for Do-it-Yourselfers... Insurance Companies can and will deny Claims, including Liability if a non USCG certified Part, caused a Problem. And they are pretty good at finding things like that out, as a lot of Do-it-Yourselfers go around shooting their Mouths off about how well they Maintain and Repair their Boats themselves, and even more so when they are crowing about how much Money they save by just using Parts they got at O'Reilly's, instead of at the Dealership, 'Cause to them', the only difference is that Dealer is just marking up the same Part...

Honestly jimmbo ...I just cant be arsed gettin into this with you ......so yeah, Whatev .

 

[Berdink]

If it's #1 that is the Problem, try to get a look at the Top of the Block, for Oil. I am mentioning this cause if the Upper Crankshaft Seal is worn, Oil can get out, more important though, is that Air can get in, leaning the Top Cylinder.

Were you posting this for me?

 

[tphoyt]

Some auto parts stores do carry marine grade supplies. I know mine do but I live on an island so it makes sense for them but its worth checking if you have no other local options.

 

[jimmbo]

Were you posting this for me?

Yes

 

[Berdink]

Bright blue spark across a 7/16 inch gap on all 4 plug wires. Now what?

 

[Berdink]

I pulled the flywheel to look at stator, the underside of the flywheel, and the timer base assembly.
All look good visually.
.
I guess I'll start going through all the ignition diagnosis tests in the repair manual. Might as well order all new fuel hoses and fuel pump.
.

 

[jimmbo]

When you had the Carbs apart, for cleaning, did you remove the Core Plug(#2 in the Exploded Diagram) and clean out any Gunk behind it? A replacement would be in a OMC/BRP Carb Kit?

 

[Berdink]

If it's #1 that is the Problem, try to get a look at the Top of the Block, for Oil. I am mentioning this cause if the Upper Crankshaft Seal is worn, Oil can get out, more important though, is that Air can get in, leaning the Top Cylinder.

I'll see how I might check that.

 

[Berdink]

When you had the Carbs apart, for cleaning, did you remove the Core Plug(#2 in the Exploded Diagram) and clean out any Gunk behind it? A replacement would be in a OMC/BRP Carb Kit?

Are you asking about #2 here?
I did not remove it. It did come with the kit.

 

[jimmbo]

Yes

 

[Berdink]

If it's #1 that is the Problem, try to get a look at the Top of the Block, for Oil. I am mentioning this cause if the Upper Crankshaft Seal is worn, Oil can get out, more important though, is that Air can get in, leaning the Top Cylinder.

Are you talking about part #4 ?

 

[jimmbo]

That would be the Seal.
However, I did jump the gun a bit. The V4 does have 6 Seals(#16) that are on the Crank Shaft, these are used to seal each Individual Crankcase from each other, and in the Case or Cylinders #1 and #4, isolate their Crankcases from the Crankshaft Bearings and Seals. So the odds of the Upper Crankshaft Seal causing a leaning of the Air-Fuel Charge is rather slim

 

[Berdink]

I pulled the flywheel to look over the stator. I saw on Brandon's Garage where he cleaned up and put some lube on the surface where the timer base rotates.
I figured I'd do that while I'm in there. I'll also check to see if everything is clean and dry there at that seal.

 

[Berdink]

I need to get a DVA for my Multimeter just so I know I've done a I've checked it all out.
But with a 7/16 bright blue spark at all plug wires, I'm going to just go back into the fuel system for now - double check the carburetors.
The fuel lines have a date stamp of 01 and 15, so I'll replace all the fuel lines. Might as well get a new fuel pump - someone already did the VRO delete, but they kept the original fuel pump. So I'll swap it out for the 88 one.

 

[Berdink]

I may have missed cleaning these holes:

 

[Berdink]

I didn't see any kind of oil up there at that top crank seal.
.
Everything on this appears to have been well maintained, inspected, and cleaned. There's dates on ignition things with 2016 and several of the fuel lines are 2015.
.
I did a fuel leak test on the lines. I put bed sheet scraps under the fuel lines in several places and under both carburetors. Then I squeezed the bulb until solid and then kept a good squeeze on it for a few. Then pulled all the rags out. Not a drip of fuel.
.
I took the carburetors back off and am going to double check all jets and orifices.
I'll also remove that core plug thing and clean under it.
.
I do do a lot of reading and forum searches.
And so for those many that come on here and say "Please Help" and get help and disappear without an update? You're rude!

 

[Berdink]

When you had the Carbs apart, for cleaning, did you remove the Core Plug(#2 in the Exploded Diagram) and clean out any Gunk behind it? A replacement would be in a OMC/BRP Carb Kit?

I sure don't like the suggestion some gave to drill a small hole to get it. I don't like the idea of possible metal shavings.
Another guy said the plug is soft enough to use a Sheetrock screw.
I'll do some more searching on ideas how to remove it.

 

[Mc Tool]

Drilling a hole and either levering it out or putting in a self tapper screw and pulling on that is standard practice . Any filings will be outside the plug ....and you going to be cleaning it out any how .
Only real danger is going in to far with drill bit but if your careful ...no issue