Stand position for removal

[MRS]

I know this has been asked a Bazillon times but it is the first time for me. I have had boats hung off the trailer 2ft. or so to work on the bottom but this time I need to work on the trailer so I need to remove the boat. Will this setup work I will trim boards to fit better and add a jack stand with 4x4 notched under keel. Thanks again for any advice and help.

 

[Knightgang]

Re: Stand position for removal

Looks to me like it should. However, I would like to make a few suggestions...

1. To get the boat off of the trailer, lower the tounge down before blocking up the stern. That way when you raise the tounge back up, the stern will sit on your stands. (You probably already new this...)

2. I would not put but one board on top of the jackstand, I would raise the jackstand with secure blocking underneath it. More than one piece of wood on top can possibly cause instability and collapse. I am sure you would not want you boat sitting on the concrete in your driveway...

You are on the right track. That is how I planned to take mine off my trailer.

 

[MRS]

Re: Stand position for removal

Knight, Thanks for the reply that is the kind of help I was looking for what you are saying sounds right. I will place a 2x8 under the jack stand and use one 2x4 on top of jack stand if I need the 4x4 with the 2x4 for hight I will nail or screw them together. you are right I do not want my boat on the concrete Thanks and will update when I get it on stands.....

 

[nlain]

Re: Stand position for removal

It has not been mentioned but you will need (may already have) another set of stands and at least one more block set for the keel to hold the bow end up. I would also have some shims available to take care of variances in height between the 3 blocking points, even though you are on a concrete slab it is likely that all three will not match up when the weight of the boat is set on them, as in; outer stands hit but not keel blocking or the other way.

 

[MRS]

Re: Stand position for removal

nlain, Thanks for reply this is why I asked I am trying to get everything ready and on hand so when I start to remove I will not have to stop and hunt for things. Shims good idea I will have two floor jacks and four jack stands and 2x4's,4x4's,4x6's and some carpet pieces Thanks again.

 

[Knightgang]

Re: Stand position for removal

Glad we could help. Ask any other questions if you need to. Just remember, when you are taking it off, if anything does not feel or look right, stop, recheck and verify before going forward. Go slowly and monitor each step. It is not really difficult, just tedious.

 

[Doryboy]

Re: Stand position for removal

With regards to nlain's reply, if you have only 3 points of support (contact) with the hull, it will remain stable. You only start having to shim anything when you start to use four points of support. That's why a 3 legged stool never rocks, but you can often need to shim a 4 legged chair to stop it from wobbling. Just remember to keep the blocking under the transom as far apart as possible to ensure a stable base to your triangle.

 

[nlain]

Re: Stand position for removal

With regards to nlain's reply, if you have only 3 points of support (contact) with the hull, it will remain stable. You only start having to shim anything when you start to use four points of support. That's why a 3 legged stool never rocks, but you can often need to shim a 4 legged chair to stop it from wobbling. Just remember to keep the blocking under the transom as far apart as possible to ensure a stable base to your triangle.

I make my statement about shims looking at what he is working with, jack stands that adjust in set amounts, 1 click at a time, if he had screw stands then he would be able to adjust the stands on either side to have the load equal on all 3 points, I just do not see that happening with what he is using without some shims. You are right on the 3 legged versus 4 legged stools.