Starter Shims?? - 1996 5.7L

[76SeaRay]

A few years back, car and truck starters were provided with shims that were used to align the starter teeth with the flywheel. I picked up a new API Marine PMGR starter (no shims provided) and installed it yesterday. However, the bolts (new ones came with the starter) get tight and there is still a gap between the top of the starter and the bottom of the block. The gap is maybe 1/8 inch and I can see the knurl on the bolts through the gap. I haven't tried to pull it into place with the bolts as the housing is cast aluminum and could break the bolt ears. The only thing I can come up with is that the knurl just below the bolt thread is hitting the threaded hole before the starter gets tight. Any idea if there should be shims installed or anybody had experience with this brand of starter?

 

[Scott Danforth]

my guess is the new bolts are too long (PMGR usually needs shorter bolts) I would be inclined to add washers under the bolt heads.

starter shims are generally not needed as manufacturing tolerances have gotten better, however to properly shim, you need access to both the ring gear and pinion to measure mesh (which is done with the engine on a stand)

NAPA usually carries starter shims in-stock

 

[76SeaRay]

Thanks, I think I will try the washers under the bolt heads first. These bolts were new and provided with the starter but that doesn't mean they will actually fit.

 

[76SeaRay]

Well, you were right. The bolts are just a little too long even though they are new and came with the starter. In the picture you will see a dark ring where the knurl was hitting the threads in the block. When I took the starter off, I put the bolt back in without the starter until it stopped against the block. It measured 3.38 inches from the flange head to the block surface. I measured the thickness of the starter mounting block at the bolt holes and it measured 3.22 inches. Clearly it will never tighten all the way and unless you are checking closely like I am right now, it is easy to miss the starter staying loose. I don't want to simply put a washer under the heads since flange heads are intended to reduce the possibility of the bolts backing out. I might grind around the knurl enough to let the bolt go in further.

 

[Searay205]

I had a API starter. you can search my name for details. I took it off because every time the engine started it squealed. Long hot miserable story later the API POS mounting holes were closer to the engine than the factory. So it needed a shim. I also found previous installer ground off the knurls of starter bolts as they wouldn't go through the starter housing. In the end ordered a new quicksilver starter with quicksilver starter bolts and BINGO everything worked perfect. what a surprise. Oh sure API said my flywheel was bent, or someother excuse and oh your warranty has expired. junk. search my name on this forum for previous post as you can see the trials and tribulations I went through to install. lol

 

[76SeaRay]

Thanks. I also just discovered that the bolts they sent say 8.8 on the end which means they are metric grade 8. I thought they screw in rather snug. They should be 3/8-16. I bought the starter some time ago so stuck with it. Going to get some regular 3/8-16 bolts but it will be a little while yet before I can try it out. Still assembling the accessories on the engine.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Grade 8.8 metric is a soft bolt like a grad 2 imperial. should be grade 10.9 or higher

 

[76SeaRay]

I went to the auto parts store and picked up standard 3/8-16 x 4.32 grade 8 starter bolts and it went together just fine. So, API Marine sent the wrong bolts with the starter.