Stator Rewrap

[Pusher]

I see this is move forward. I am watching it for sure. I have to admit, I would probably be doing the same thing faced with your option. I always thought that a burnt out stator and coils would be a challenge to repair this way. I mean the only materials are the core and wire. I have repaired seriously burnt circuit boards before and was even certified to repair circuit boards that were burnt all the way through. :thumb:

That is definitely above my pay grade! I wish I knew that much. I'm still debating on that soldering iron.

 

[gm280]

That is definitely above my pay grade! I wish I knew that much. I'm still debating on that soldering iron.

Oh Pusher, I don't think you give yourself enough credit. Most would have never even tried to do what you are doing. I think you are both doing a good job and learning so much about stators. And I think it will work out good. You then can add to the sticky about rebuilding burnt up stators on these forums. Keep at it.

 

[km1125]

I don't have specific recommendations on the lead wires. If I had more time I'd do some research just 'cause I'm curious though. I burned up a stator on a snowmobile last year and thought about rewinding it, so I'd be right were you are now. On the wire size, it won't matter much if its anything larger than the winding gauge. You might be able to find some wire with a better jacket than PVC though... like a teflon or something like that.

 

[Pusher]

Thanks for the compliment GM! I almost gave up on the whole thing on Monday. That was too close ;-)

Good thought KM. That will give me a head start on the next step of research. Thank you.

 

[Pusher]

I forgot the proof!

So I'm recycling this product packaging. Hopefully it doesn't create a weak point in the project. I am taping both sides of the plastic in hopes the epoxy will bond to everything. Feedback appreciated.

 

[Pusher]

I was thinking that if there was a heat resistant puddy i could lay around the bas it would help seat the coils permanently. Does anyone know of something like this?

 

[GA_Boater]

Wait on fixing the wraps until you know it works. Use epoxy after testing.

Also make sure the padded ends of the cores clear the inside of the flywheel.

 

[Pusher]

Wait on fixing the wraps until you know it works. Use epoxy after testing.

Also make sure the padded ends of the cores clear the inside of the flywheel.

That was a close one. Thank you GA. I will need to remove that bit on the end. Good catch.

 

[gm280]

I would think any type tape material on the center section to keep the magnet wire from nicking would suffice. Once it all is wound and known good, you can coat them with epoxy and it should be solid. JMHO

 

[Pusher]

Notice the fishing line holding everything up tight to the stator body.



Now to wait for the low speed and high speed rappings

 

[gm280]

Pusher, are those two pictures showing how you glued (epoxied or whatever) the plastic parts in place via fishing line? Because that is what it looks like. Interesting idea. I am waiting for the windings to start. :thumb:

Pusher, you know you are going to be the "go to guy" for future stator rebuilds on these forums now don't you.

 

[Pusher]

Correct! I used athletic cape to encase the plastic "shoulders" ind then epoxy glued the sgoulder to the posts which were also wrapped in athletic tape.

I hope not!!!! Hopefully some of the electrical genius's here can expound on what I've done... If I'm successful of course. we'll see.

 

[gm280]

Correct! I used athletic cape to encase the plastic "shoulders" ind then epoxy glued the sgoulder to the posts which were also wrapped in athletic tape.

I hope not!!!! Hopefully some of the electrical genius's here can expound on what I've done... If I'm successful of course. we'll see.

Pusher, just think about how much more you now know about stators then you ever thought when you started this unique project. Knowledge is invaluable. And now you know how and why your stator was designed and built. I know if I were faced with the same problem, I certainly would have gone down that same road of rewinding it. It is just how I think about things. Keep working and posting. I am certainly watching and interested a lot. :thumb:

 

[Pusher]

I am definitely learning despite some knowledge road blocks. I plan on finishing the high speed wrap tonight and gluing those ones up. It's down hill after that.

 

[GA_Boater]

Don't glue up the wraps until you test the stator.

 

[Pusher]

Problem with that is the glue keeps the wraps from vibratingthrough their enamel sheathes, but more importabtly, there's no foot on the HS LS coil posts to keep the coils from coming unraveled.

I'm open to thoughts on this.

 

[GA_Boater]

Then just use some tape only for testing, not long term use Tape will let you reuse the bell wire if a re-wrap is needed. A tight wrap, which is needed, stops the unraveling.

If you wrap and epoxy and run into a problem, 40 more bucks down the drain. Then you're getting close to the price of a new part.

 

[gm280]

Then just use some tape only for testing, not long term use Tape will let you reuse the bell wire if a re-wrap is needed. A tight wrap, which is needed, stops the unraveling.

If you wrap and epoxy and run into a problem, 40 more bucks down the drain. Then you're getting close to the price of a new part.

There are pros and cons to using tape. Pros are the fact that you can check it out and if there are any issue, you can rewind. Cons are that fact that unless you can keep the windings as tight and lined up as you can, the winds will vibrate and that can cause wear very quickly on the insulation coating. The smoother and tighter you make the windings, the more efficient the stator will be. Lose and haphazard windings defeat the purpose of winding this in the first place. Windings that are lined up side by side and tight offer the best output. It is just how electricity works. There is not much different between your stator and a typical transformer. Both use the same techniques with power transfer. JMHO

 

[Pusher]

Well, I found out one of my wraps was extending too far and had to remove it. I think I have a process down that will work now.





The cardboard cap was not only pulling the wire with t when I removed it, the paint was also keeping the epoxy from bonding it to the post while I worked.... as I found out later.




I chucked a thread spool up to my drill and filled it up with wire.




Then I taped two athletic tapes together and trimmed out a square which I slid over the already epoxy'ed post. Next I taped over it to give it a form that will stay in tolerance with the magnets.


You can see I epoxied the tape end after getting the shape set with the tape overlay... that was awkward to phrase.



Here's the original and new wires. I think the original was more like 34 gauge wheras I'm using 30 gauge. Since I should be adding more wraps overall due to no plastic coating, I'm not worried about the increase in gauge.

The larger stuff I ordered is 18 gauge, but I think the original was probably 20. Since I'm adding two more posts, I'm not worried about the size differences.

 

[GA_Boater]

As I said, the tape idea is not for extended running, only for testing to make it easier if it needs to be re-wrapped. And testing does not need to be for very long. All you need to do is see if the stator is putting out the right voltage to charge the battery and if the the motor runs well up to WOT a couple of times.

If the wrap job is good, it shouldn't degrade the wire coating. A couple of drops of epoxy where the large wires are soldered and a few spots around the coil along with the tape will hold everything until going to full epoxy.