Stator test 1974 135hp

[wolfe1974]

So i think i have a stator problem and i just want to confirm i am reading my digital ohm meter correctly. I have to put the meter on 200k to get a reading and the reading is 3.5 .i assume that is way high for the 500 ohms required for the brown to brown/yellow test. Any lower setting just gives me a 1 which i understand as needing to go to higher setting. Tell me if i am reading it right. thanks!

 

[racerone]

What is your motor doing / not doing that leads you to test / possibly blame the stator ?

 

[wolfe1974]

Ok, so i rebuilt an older boat last year and motor ran fine all summer. This year i started it on muffs at home, all good .went to the lake and ran around for about an hour. Motor started acting like it was losing power then it would come back full power. Eventually it died. Got towed in and tried again at the dock and nothing .towed it home and it fired right up. Fuel pump is new fuel lines new. Coils are new new plugs. Spark at the plugs seemed weak but it would run and run good on the hose. So i have heard that the stator could get hot and quit then when cool fire again.

 

[wolfe1974]

Oh and there is oooz from one of the main coils

 

[F_R]

The ooze says it all. Stator is no good, no matter what the test says. Actually they were well known for that.

 

[wolfe1974]

I kind of figured that too, but am i reading the meter correctly too?

 

[wolfe1974]

Just want to be sure before i buy, is those type of symptoms sound like a stator? Just want to make sire something else isn't a problem too.

 

[F_R]

Right or wrong, the meter only applies a small voltage to the coil winding. In actual use, it develops around 300 Volts which will break down the insulation, where the low meter voltage won't. That ooze is /was the insulation.

 

[wolfe1974]

Got it, can the stator be intermittent? Work one time and then not? I am more familiar with autos. I liken it to a coil that quits when it gets hot then will work again when cool.

 

[wolfe1974]

Ok did some checking i can get a new old stock stator, or i can get a new cdi unit for around $80 more. Which is a better idea?

 

[wolfe1974]

Any thoughts on which part to buy?

 

[Faztbullet]

The NOS and replace the rectifier also....

 

[wolfe1974]

Ok, thanks!

 

[F_R]

You know the stator is bad. You do not know about the power pack, maybe it is, maybe it isn't. But a new power pack isn't going to fix it if the stator is bad.

 

[wolfe1974]

Ok, ordered parts. Any tips on installation? What do i torque the flywall nut to? Do i need to loctight anything? Thanks!!

 

[F_R]

Flywheel nut is 100-105 ft lbs.

 

[wolfe1974]

Ok, thanks!! Is there a spec for the stator too?

 

[wolfe1974]

Ok, installed new stator and rectifier. Runs good! But doesn't seem to be charging. New rectifier has 2 yellow wires not yellow and yellow/gray like diagram shows. Can it be hook up wrong? Also old wires on stator were very discolored so i couldn't tell wire color on the 2 yellow ones. I went by the markings one terminal block to hook up new stator. What rpm will it show charging? Thanks!

 

[F_R]

Yellow and yellow/grey wires from stator and rectifier are the same thing and interchangeable.

 

[oldboat1]

Not sure if your model takes the 6 or 12 amp stator, but you should see some charge at high idle, say 900-1000 rpms. If you are testing on muffs, you are likely idling high enough to see a charge.