Steiger craft restoration

zool · Apr 19, 2015

jc55 said:
Aren't you epoxy guys recommending 17oz over 1708? Is he gonna be okay?

He'll be fine, resin dealers like to recommend 1708, its like being fed salty peanuts with your beer at the bar

johnnybgood · Apr 20, 2015

johnnybgood · Apr 20, 2015

Still have a heck of a time posting pictures my computer skills suck. We have had 5 days of rain in costal SC but in between I was able to get all the transom pieces fitted. UPS sent a message my resin/fiberglass will be here tomorrow. Ya'll have me worried 1708 or 1700 guess I am committed to the 1708 as I have a few more than a few yards coming. With the added piece of 3/4 on the inside the transom will be 3" thick and with the knee braces I think it should be plenty strong.

johnnybgood · May 6, 2015

Got all the deck plywood cut and fitted, next fill bulkheads with foam then start glassing everything in.. What is the procedure for installing the deck?Know to coat the bottom side with resin do I do the top side and then tab in the sides or tab in the sides and then coat with resin and start laying my 1708 down. Also when I put the deck down it looks like they had 5200 on top of the stringers do I use that or put thickened resin (putty) on the stringers then put the deck down originally it was screwed to the stringers which I will do. A section of the cuddy cabin plywood was rotten was able to remove it withut cutting the fiberglass deck. Cut new plywood and was able to slip in and relamenate it to the fiberglass. Have had computer issues will be posting pictures of progress

Woodonglass · May 6, 2015

Most all 1708 is compatible with epoxy so you'll be fine. It'll just use more resin to wet it out. IMHO putting down 1708 on top of the deck is WAY overkill but that's just me. Epoxy is so strong and flexible it only needs about 6 - 8oz of fabric for a deck. Again just my opinion. This might be helpful...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

johnnybgood · May 7, 2015

Being new to this boat restoration I went with what the rep @ us composites said 1708 wish I had read your post earlier, oh well overkill it will be, started glassing the transom in yesterday.Looks like rain here in SC next few days so not much work will get done

johnnybgood · May 13, 2015

Had some rotten plywood in the cabin and was able to remove it without destroying the fiberglass cut a new piece of plywood slipped it in and laminated it to the fiberglass good and solid now. Added two hatches for storage and two inspection hatches as there is foam in the bow. Plan on painting the section up front just the deck. Have one of the old cushions with both the whole area is covered. Secured the piece made for the transom on the inside laminated it with plenty of resin and screwed with ss screws. puttied all the edges today will lay glass on it . Had several days of rain so took the cabin teak doors apart as they were really weathered and need new bottom pieces made finished that and have been giving them a good coat of teak oil. Have a bunch of pictures can't seem to get them up loaded get a error message

Woodonglass · May 13, 2015

JBG, it's usually best to upload your pics to a free service like PhotoBucket and then copy them into iBoats. If you use Photobucket, copy the IMG Code and paste it directly into your iBoats thread. It will automatically resize the pics for you.

johnnybgood · May 14, 2015

Pictures of progress :

johnnybgood · May 14, 2015

Picture #1- teak doors to cabin were badly weathered and falling apart took completely apart made new bottom rails re-glued and in the process of multi coats of teak oil #2- Son (# 3) helping the old man fiberglass #3 me fiber glassing added transom support #4- son rolling air bubbles out #5- transom bracket secured to engine mount #6.7.8 Cabin deck with hatches and inspection hatches #9 plywood deck cut to fit waiting on new gas tank before installing deck PS Thanks Woodenglass after many attempts to post pics and cuss words got the wife to post pictures

Woodonglass · May 14, 2015

Sometimes you have to "Beat" those pics into submission!!!!

:yield:

Looks like Great progress being made.

Mark72233 · May 14, 2015

Teak door looks great Johnnyb, mine is in that same shape and need to do the same thing. I ordered some teak wood to rebuild it. Restore is looking good.

johnnybgood · May 25, 2015

It is now official this Seiger Craft is no longer an I/O as I have completed the transom for the outboard. The added support has been glassed in and the new plywood on the outside has been laminated and the piece of outer skin cut off has been laminated in and seems glassed in and level. The out drive hole has been glassed in and leveled to the original skin thickness took seven layers of 1708 to build it up. What a pain in the neck doing the transom. I'm thinking the deck will be a lot easier as it is all flat surfaces.

johnnybgood · May 25, 2015

Got to give my oldest son credit he came down from Charlotte NC over the weekend and made a removable teak floor piece for the cabin floor and a teak raised panel for behind the steering wheel inside the cabin . I think at one time there was a fiber glass panel that covered and hid the steering box and wires. He also made new teak fishing rod holders will post pictures tomorrow. To all my fellow Viet Nam vets and all vets hope your Memorial Day was a good one

johnnybgood · May 31, 2015

Received my new gas tank exact copy of the old one need advice on the best way to install so it does not corrode. The tank is aluminum, 60 gal has brackets welded to the fore and aft sides that are screwed to the keel. The original tank had some sort of plastic pads under the bracket and then it was foamed in under and along the sides of the tank and some of the foam came up over the top. The old tank had holes and corrosion where the foam was touching it. What is the best way to install to limit any potential corrosion as the tank will be sealed under the deck when I start re-installing the deck

Mark72233 · May 31, 2015

Johnnyb, Formula made them the same way in 1972 except the entire tank was encased in foam. My tank was in bad shape after all those years in foam. There are different views on foamed in tanks and much debate. I went with supporting mine underneath, sides, front and back with fiberglass encased wood with a strip of nylon plastic between the fiberglass and tank. The plastic was about an inch wide and 1/4 thick attached to the tank and the fiberglass with a layer of 5200 so no moisture can get trapped between the tank and plastic strip. The tank was also encased in cold tar which felt like a softer version of rhino lining. Air can flow around the tank so the hope is no moisture build up. I will see in 30 years if it worked

thebrain · May 31, 2015

nice boat couple?s
1.is that marine plywood, like can regular plywood be used when you coat it w/ 1708?

2.wouldn't the transome be a tad stronger if you cut the wood so it wood cover more of the transome area? I attach image like do both sides? then add two more knee braces on each side.

3.do you have to wear a gas mask when shearming 1708?

4 did you concider using a piece of plywood instead of seven coats of 1708 to cover I/O hole then final cover of 1780?

5. I'm assuming this is a 20" transome (sorry I did'nt read the whole thread) if you went w/ a long shaft w/ a 25" transome how much stroger would the extra 5 " make the transome? I like overkill a like to overpower. not to critize just looking for tips. TB

johnnybgood · Jun 1, 2015

1. Yes that is marine 3/4" plywood
2. Called Steiger Craft and was told the I/O model and the outboard model transom were the same I added the extra piece on the inside just for my own peace of mind it really was not needed. I'm no engineer just thought any stress would be on the knee braces which are screwed and fiber glassed to the old engine braces
3. Can't see it but had a large shop fan blowing fresh air and this was all done outside
4. Using all those layers of 1708 was to build the exterior fiber glass skin back up to the original 3/16 " thickness and which from what I read reestablishes the integrity of the outer fiber glass skin
5. The transom is cut for a 25" shaft outboard

I'm new to this boat rebuild any suggestions on doing it better is apprciated

johnnybgood · Jun 1, 2015

Mark thanks for your reply I don't know what coal tar is I have been using epoxy resin for all the fiber glassing can I use the epoxy resin and coat the tank? Is epoxy compatible with aluminum? The pads I will reuse and coat in 5200. What are your thoughts on using the closed cell foam insulation panels you can get @ Lowes and coat them in fiberglass rather than use wood/glass for tank support. What type of plastic did you use between the tank and fiber glass? I'd really like to stay away from the foam if possible

Yacht Dr. · Jun 1, 2015

Hey Jonny..looking good man.

I was wondering if you took the gelcoat off under that ply on the inside before you installed it. I noticed the braces looked to be directly on gelcoat. I also havent seen any glass tabbing for the additional ply. Looks like its fiberglassed..but not to the transom. Unless I missed a picture somewhere, It looks like there is really no grinding to raw fiberglass on the inside at the transom. I see some sanding/grinding where it looks like your going to tab the deck in..but not down to fiberglass yet.

In any case..you really should be removing All the gelcoat before you laminate. Just FYI.

Hell-of-a stringer system that much is certain

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