Stereo Installation

gboyce

Recruit
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
3
I get the bright idea to install a stereo system in my 1983 19" Searay. I installed the stereo, amp, and speakers, but that is where my quite limited knowledge ended. So I had a second battery and Perko switch installed and asked that the stereo be hooked-up. Five hundred and twenty dollars later, I don't think the system is running right and I'm afraid that I will ruin my alternator or drain a battery. Also, my stereo does not keep continuous memory, ie, clock, preset stations or charge my IPod. I guess I need an atenna too. Can anyone direct me in where I can gain specific knowledge on the complete and correct installation of a stereo system? Thanks!
Gloria
 

Fl_Richard

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Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
1,428
Re: Stereo Installation

Well in print no.... Boat stereos have differernt requirements than car audio. Besides the obvious water problems. Boats often sit without power for extended periods. Boat stereos need to save memory for a long time without power, cars not so much, there always "on".

The battery switch is another story. How does it operate now? It should always supply power to the dashboard, gauges ,stereo and the amps when in any position but "off". In the "Off" position everywhting should be dead. If it's a car stereo you need to hook up the red wire to a battery and the yellow (ACC) wire to the ACC pole on the starter switch.

I know I've probably totally missed on your question but theres alot to it. Let me know what problems your having and I can give you my 20+ years of experience.
 

Boss Hawg

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Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
1,433
Re: Stereo Installation

$520 & no working right :eek:
Only thing i can say as my mind comes back is you have to have continious power to the memory :confused: As FL Richard said usually the yellow wire-

Theres really not much drain of power for it ---

Installing a marine system is really no different from a auto system, have to be sure of you grounds & yes- you'll need a antenna too :rolleyes:
 

gboyce

Recruit
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
3
Re: Stereo Installation

Richard, thanks for your reply. Before I get started with my reply, I want to mention again that I don't know what I'm doing and just learning, trying to figure these things out. Also, I just signed up today to this forum, so I hope you get my reply.
To answer your first question re: how the battery swith operates now?, I'll have to go look at the boat in my off-site (frown and headache) storage tomorrow. I think that they:
1) moved the red cable running from the alternator to the main battery to run from the alternator to the "All" position on the perko switch
2) ran red cable from "1" position on the Perko to the main battery and from "2" position on the Perko to the newly installed battery
3) hooked up the stereo and amp to "2" battery and also ran a ground wire to "2" battery

I don't think they messed with any other wiring, but I can test that out tomorrow as well. What are you referring to when you mention "off", the ignition switch or the Perko switch? I did notice that when both the ignition switch and Perko switch are in the "off" position, I still had power to raise or lower the outdrive.

I talked with a marine stereo shop today and they suggested that the stereo should be wired to "1" battery; that only the amp should be on "2" battery. And of course, they'd be happy to look at it for a small fee. However, my intent is to learn how best to wire the stereo for my boat and then return to the $520 guy for him to fix.

I take my boat out weekly in the summer months so I don't think that "extended" periods of battery drain will be a problem. But then again, I don't know how much a stereo drains a battery or how that is measured. For winter storage, I intend to turn the Perko switch to off and disconnect the batteries.

I will look for the ACC yellow wire on the starter switch to determine if the stereo is wired there.

Also, when researching online today, some suggested that the negative ground on a boat is not the same as a car, and that the stereo or amp should be grounded to the "grounding plate" on my boat. Is that correct and where do I find my grounding plate? I will look tomorrow to see how they grounded the stereo installation.
Gloria

Well in print no.... Boat stereos have differernt requirements than car audio. Besides the obvious water problems. Boats often sit without power for extended periods. Boat stereos need to save memory for a long time without power, cars not so much, there always "on".

The battery switch is another story. How does it operate now? It should always supply power to the dashboard, gauges ,stereo and the amps when in any position but "off". In the "Off" position everywhting should be dead. If it's a car stereo you need to hook up the red wire to a battery and the yellow (ACC) wire to the ACC pole on the starter switch.

I know I've probably totally missed on your question but theres alot to it. Let me know what problems your having and I can give you my 20+ years of experience.
 

gboyce

Recruit
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
3
Re: Stereo Installation

$520 & no working right :eek:
Only thing i can say as my mind comes back is you have to have continious power to the memory :confused: As FL Richard said usually the yellow wire-

Theres really not much drain of power for it ---

Installing a marine system is really no different from a auto system, have to be sure of you grounds & yes- you'll need a antenna too :rolleyes:

Thank you, I had more questions for Richard!
 

Tabes117

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
181
Re: Stereo Installation

The Perko switch hook up sounds right. Even with the Perko switch set to off you should have power for your trim, just like your automatic bilge pump should still have power. Your stereo has two power wires. The main power wire for your unit and an additional power wire which is a constant hot for the presets, clock etc.

You would have to check to see how the remote or constant hot wire is run. If having your presets is important, than you would need that run directly to your battery, so the Perko switch would not affect it. You will than have a constant small drain from that battery.

With the Perko switch, if you have it set to battery #1, only that battery will be recharged from the alternator, vice versa #2 etc.. I have a Kenwood 25 watts x 4 head unit running four speakers and an amp running for additional speakers. I have never had a problem running down a battery. I did add a small fan to blow/cool my amp for those very hot days on the beach.
 

slia67

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2007
Messages
272
Re: Stereo Installation

Gloria,

Is the second battery you had added a deep cycle? If so, we will call that your house battery.

When I wire a boat stereo that has a second battery I always wire the stereo and the amps to the house battery. The reason for a house battery is so that you can switch over to your house battery (battery #2) with the battery switch and listen to your tunes in a cove or beach all day if you like, without the worry of draining your starting battery.

The reason you want a deep cycle battery as your house battery is because they are designed to be discharged to lower voltage levels without damaging them.

If you have a good grounding block in your dash, you can run all of your electronics to it. By good I mean, clean & not corroded and connected to the batteries by a sufficiently sized ground wire. I typically run all my power wires to the #2 battery. The rest of the stereo wiring will be like wiring an automotive set-up. If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask.
 
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