Surge Disc Brake Bleeding - 2006 244 Funship

[bruceb58]

I agree. If you are going to change out the actuator, I would not go with Tie Down again. I would go with a Titan since the parts are so easy to get.

I would never buy TieDown parts on purpose. Do you have TieDown disk brakes as well? I had some TieDown stainless disk brakes on my trailer for 1000 miles until I threw them in the trash. Worst pieces of junk I had ever seen.

Hopefully, you get lucky and you just have a hole worn in a brake line or something simple like that.

 

[rapa123]

First, Thanks again for all your help and for the link to Hanna Trailer Supply. The master cylinder they carry is 48855, mine is 48837. I just sent them an email asking if they carry the one I have. More than likely it's the same, just with a different crossover part number. As for the UFP A-75, it's rated at 7,500 lbs and I need one in the range of 12,000 lbs. Tie Down has two types of Model 125's, mine is just the model 125 (straight type) with the other being called "Alien" model 125 (it has a drop). As for replacing the entire actuator, I totally agree that Tie Down would take last place. Not sure what type of disc brakes are on the trailer. Thanks again for all your help. Ray

 

[rapa123]

~~You're gonna love this....... In my printed actuator manual it shows both the master cylinder and latch kit as the same part number 48837. Hmmm..... In the online manual (http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/b771.pdf) both of these parts state "Call" for the part number. So, I called........ Bottom line, the printed manual was mis-printed. The actual part number for the master cylinder is 48855. This master cylinder is running in the $150.00 range. I did come across a Titan for $300.00 (http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/ite...4750620&eq=&Tp=) Now I need to find where the problem is before I purchase a specific bleeder for an actuator. Thanks again, Ray

 

[bruceb58]

deleted

 

[dingbat]

Seems I do one man bleeding it a little different than the rest.

Attached one end of 3/16" clear plastic tubing to caliper bleed valve and stick the other end in a jar containing brake fluid. Locate jar where you can see the tubing from the actuator. Crack bleeder valve and head to the actuator. Brake fluid in jar eliminates the need to close bleeder between strokes.

Put large screw driver in slot provided on actuator to bleed brakes. Pump actuator until the bubbles are gone and all you that comes out with each stroke is fluid. Go back and tighten bleeder and move the rig to the next wheel. Continue process until all brakes are bleed.

 

[rapa123]

I may start out with manual bleeding just to see where my leak may be. Once found, I plan on getting a power bleeder to match up with either my current actuator master cylinder or a new actuator/master that I may have to purchase. Thanks, Ray

 

[rapa123]

Received the Motive power bleeder...... I pulled all four wheels off the trailer and still don't see any signs of a leak. The disc brakes are from Tie Down with the calipers having two bleeders each. Do I need to bleed off both bleeders? I have seen mixed comments around on the web about just bleeding the top one and/or both. Plan on diving into it tomorrow........ What's your thoughts? Thanks again to all of you for your help. Ray

 

[bruceb58]

Bleed both.

Sorry about having TieDown disc brakes. I had their stainless steel versions on my trailer for 500 miles before I threw them in the trash.

 

[rapa123]

Getting ready to power bleed with the Motive bleeder. Upon reading the instructions http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.c...ons_ep_50.html
number 9 and 10 has me a little puzzled. If you could explain in better terms and/or give me your steps using the power bleeder I would sincerely appreciate it.
#9 stating; If fluid remains in the Power Bleeder tank when through: tip the tank away from fluid pick-up tube and open bleed valve closest to the master cylinder. Allow air to flow into fluid reservoir until fluid level falls just to the maximum fill level on your reservoir. Close the bleed valve and tighten to specified torque.
Question 1: "If fluid remains in the Power Bleeder tank when through tip the tank away from fluid pick-up tube and open bleed valve closest to the master cylinder" Correct me if I'm wrong, does this mean the first caliper I started with? If the bleeder tank is still under pressure wouldn't this push fluid through the bleeder as well as introducing air into the line?
Question 2: "Allow air to flow into fluid reservoir until fluid level falls just to the maximum fill level on your reservoir. Impossible, can't see through the actuator. Now what?
Question 3: "Close the bleed valve and tighten to specified torque." Cant find any torque specs anywhere. Do you guys torque these or just snug them up?

#10 stating. "When complete, release pressure by slowly loosening pump cap. Remove the cap from fluid reservoir, taking care to avoid spilling any fluid that remains in the tube."
All pressure will probably be gone by now......

 

[rapa123]

Just got done ignoring the complication of the directions. I had a lot of air in the lines and "did not" find any leaks in the entire system. The brakes have very little wear on them leading me to believe that the trailer wasn't bled in the first place from the factory. I held back the actuator to checked the brakes......wheels all locked up nicely by hand. The real test will be once I get on the road. I sincerely appreciate everyone's help. Thanks again, Ray