Swapping outboards

[well225]

I have a Wellcraft sportsman with a blown '82 Johnson 275hp. I've purchased a '94 Yamaha 225TXRS without wiring harness and controls. I'm hearing from marine shops that I need all kinds of new equiptment. I figure I need the wire harness to get the 10 pin plug to attache to the motor, but do I need a Yamaha key switch a $140? I have good analog gauges except for oil, the Johnson used premixed fuel. I have a binnacle type Morse control and a key switch that you push in to choke. I don't have a problem with splicing wiring, but I'm having problems getting a diagram up to the instrument gauges. <br />Thanks for any help,<br />Roger

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Swapping outboards

You will need an adapter kit to adapt the Johnson end of the cables to the Yamaha. Unless you can find a junk harness with a good 10-pin plug you will be stuck with having to buy a harness (check around for used). As for the switch, you sound comfortable with rewiring so there is no reason the existing switch can't be used. I suggest you order a Yamaha service manual for your engine. You can order them on Yamahas web site. They also post their parts lists on line by the way so maybe that will help.

 

[well225]

Re: Swapping outboards

Thanks for the responce,<br />I've got a line an a used wire harness for around $50. In questioning the local Yamaha parts service, they never mentioned having a Johnson to Yamaha adapter. I have a Clymer shop manual for the engine, will the factory Yamaha go into more detail about wiring to the gauges?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Swapping outboards

hello<br /> my bet is you will now have 2 blown motors. I am in a better mood this morning so I will reply<br /> first let me state that using mix and match crapola is not good. omc stuff compared with yammy stuff is like junk.<br /> the universel cheapy controls have 33c universal style cables. all you need is the plastic ends for the yamaha shift and throttle posts.<br /> if this motor is a X model it should be a 3.1 liter. they made a 2.6 and a 3.1 in 225 hp that year. if your going to use the oil injection you will need the yamaha tank, the harness from the engine to the tank the harness from the engine to the gauges. you will need to adapt the ign switch and warning horn the trim gauge is not compatible with the 3 wire sender yamaha uses. only a yammy gauge works.the motor has prime start. no need for a choke switch of any kind cause it does not have one. the omc switch will actuate all the functions if wired properly the analog tach will count RPM but it will be a *******ized rig and most shops wont touch it . if you brought something like that intomy shopI would inspect it,park it across the street and wipe my finger prints from it . however it can be made to work.<br /> the main harness colors are,green tach send, black ground,yellow key on 12v,white is kill,red is 12 fused from engine,lt blue is trim up light green is trim down pink is alarm blue is choke brown is start gray is overheat visual indicate.<br /> so on the omc switc take the following colors to the folowing terminals. white to M, black to the other M, yellow to I, blue tape off, red to batt, brown to S, green to the tachometr send, pink to the - side of the alarm horn, ltblue and light grren to the trim switch. <br /> that should keep ya busy for a bit

 

[well225]

Re: Swapping outboards

Rodbolt,<br />Thanks for the vote of confidence (ouch). But really, thanks for the help and sobering perspective. I'm licking my wounds from buying a my first boat and getting a bad motor. My budget's tight, yet I want something solid for fishing with my 4 boys. I did my homework on the Yamaha motor and its a good one. I have the oil tank and its wiring. I wasn't aware of the difference in quality for the guages, but frankly can spring for new gauges at this time. I'm looking for a new 704 control box and a wire harness on ebay. Your help is apppreciated,<br />Roger

 

[well225]

Re: Swapping outboards

I'm adding to my last reply and coveering for a typo.... I made it sound like I can afford new gauges, but it was supposed to say ...I frankly can't spring for new gauges now. But, I surf the net for bargins on really needed.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Swapping outboards

hello<br /> ill try as much as I can<br /> I have a few of the 704's<br /> the morse will work but requires care and it requires the proper stroke on the shift cable end. so mount that monster and lets go. ill do what I can to assist. before installing the oil tank change the oil filter at the bottom near the pump.<br /> yes that 225 is nice, however its touchy. keepgood t-stats and water pump. check/clean the pressure relief valve grommet,. the oil warning horn will work witout the yamaha gauge you just wont know if its oil level or overheat. the yam gauge has the visual for oil and the newer ones for overheat,if the shift and throttle on your morse box cables have 10-32 threaded ends the standard plastic yamaha cable ends will work.<br /> doe this motor have 6 individual carbs or 3 2bbl carbs. do the t-stat housing sit on the cyl head or on the block near the flywheel cover?

 

[well225]

Re: Swapping outboards

Hi again,<br />I checked the motor and it has 6 carbs and the control cables are 10-32 thread. The t-stat housing is on the block by the flywheel. I'm repairing some damage on the transom prior to mounting the motor and am ordering a new 10 pin harness.

 

[fridays]

Re: Swapping outboards

Your first boat??? Sell it..buy a 16' skiff with a 15hp and enjoy the water for a year. Next year think about something a little bigger. Always remember that a boat is a hole in the water surrounded by fiberglass into which one pours money.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Swapping outboards

hello<br /> yep what Friday says <br /> that motor has some quirks. you really really need the correct service manual. a stuck open T-stat can roast #6 piston. the carbs on the stbd side feed the port back. the fuel system vacum must not exceed 6"Hg at 5200 RPM measured at the pump intake just after the fuel line check valve. if the valve is still there. its not a difficult motor just a lot of sensors and such. itws the 3.1 liter motor. in that year it was made in 2.6 and 3.1. was solid but quirky.<br />had a nasty habit of blowing fuel pump diaphrams as well. killed many a motor

 

[well225]

Re: Swapping outboards

Hello again,<br />To FridaysMarine: Thanks for the helpful suggestion, I sometimes wish it weren't, but I'm too stubborn to quit on this project. <br /><br />Just an update on work in progress. Today the new (oem)10-pin harness and service manual arrived. The transom repairs are done and Easter weekend the 225 motor went on. The support rod for the front mount steering cylinder was siezed into the blown Johnson's clamp bracket, so I took the dims and turned a new one out of 304 stainless rod. I'll get the steering together this weekend and be studying up on the wiring for the next. <br /><br />To rodbolt: I'm ordering replacement parts per your recommendations on prior posts, I appreciate your help. <br /><br />Thanks guys and I'll keep you informed.

 

[well225]

Re: Swapping outboards

Hello again,<br />I know things will be busy after the holiday weekend, but would appreciate any help when available. <br /><br />I did a sea trial with the 225 txrs and it ran great, but I have some questions. The oil tank on the motor doesn't fill from the other tank when the level drops. The buzzer went off, but the pump on the big oil tank didn't kick on. The manual states that the pump should run for 180 sec. when the power is turned on, but mine does not. The harness to the oil tank came with the motor and worked prior to installing motor on my boat. The pump does work when hot-wired. The manual doesn't go into much detail on what to check. I have the Yamaha tach that came with the motor, but don't have oil light hooked up yet. Is there a separate harness to them? Also, the motor used 1/2 the small oil tank in about 3-4 miles, is that average? <br /><br />Thanks for your help