Tach and ESA

[sqhurt]

So got my boat back today from shop, but now my esa is not working. Now last week I put new points and condenser in there and didn't have spark, come to find out it was the bolt thats threw the dizzy wasn't tight enough. So tightened it up and got spark, I also notice to the tach gauge was off after that. It wasn't reading right. Now got word my esa isn't working either.

What ties these both together or could be problem? Could I may have fried the module or something? Ready to fix this and get her in the water.. Thanks for any and all help

 

[sqhurt]

Re: Tach and ESA

What would cause the bolt coming out of the distributor to shock you? Its the one that the points and condenser hook to, and have the one wire on the outside of distributor hooked to it? And will start in gear also



Turn key to acc. and have 12.47 on ignt coil + and same on the Negative side of coil as well.... Took an aligator clip and clipped it on the bolt coming out of the distributor and touched batt negative and got lil spark.. What could be the case here? Its an 89 vip with 2.3 ford and cobra outdrive.

Has two grey wires crimped together going to the negative side of coil and one single gray wire which im pretty certain thats the wire coming from the bolt out of the distributor also on the negative side of coil. then the 2 wires on the positive side of coil

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Tach and ESA

When you measure the same voltage on the positive side of the coil and the negative, it means your points are open. When you hooked the wire to the bolt on the distributor and grounded it, you were basically doing what the points do. When you grounded the wire, you charged up the coil. When you removed the ground, the coil's electric field collapses and you have a very high voltage pulse coming out the secondary of your coil. If you had the coil high tension lead near ground, you would have seen the spark.

Why you have voltage in the ACC position is another matter.

The negative side of the coil should have 3 wires on it. 1 goes to the distributor, one goes to the ESA and one goes to the tachometer if you have one.

 

[sqhurt]

Re: Tach and ESA

When you measure the same voltage on the positive side of the coil and the negative, it means your points are open. When you hooked the wire to the bolt on the distributor and grounded it, you were basically doing what the points do. When you grounded the wire, you charged up the coil. When you removed the ground, the coil's electric field collapses and you have a very high voltage pulse coming out the secondary of your coil. If you had the coil high tension lead near ground, you would have seen the spark.

Why you have voltage in the ACC position is another matter.

The negative side of the coil should have 3 wires on it. 1 goes to the distributor, one goes to the ESA and one goes to the tachometer if you have one.

Yeah theres 3 wires on - side. Has two grey wires on same terminal then the one that goes to the dizzy. And sorry for the misunderstanding but key was on position with motor not running. But I noticed tach not acting right after I took that apart when did points.

As for the esa, i tested the top one for continuity and once both are in it beeps, when button is depressed it stops. And vise verse for the bottom switch.

One big problem is I just got my boat back from a shop that did the transom and what do you know cables are not adjusted correct at all. In reverse full throttle the lever is not centered in the v its at top and both buttons are depressed. Also the transom shift cable is not the correct measurement. And go figure just paid this shop 331 bucks for this work

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Tach and ESA

Doesn't surprise me about the adjustments to your cable. Few know how to adjust them anymore.

If you know how to take the drive off, the adjustment is easy with the two tools helping you.
http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Adjustm...80GA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337924089&sr=8-1

One of the switches is the shift switch. It is a NO switch. The other switch is an overstroke switch and is NC. While your engine is running, depress the shift switch. Engine should stumble. You do still have points right?

 

[sqhurt]

Re: Tach and ESA

Doesn't surprise me about the adjustments to your cable. Few know how to adjust them anymore.

If you know how to take the drive off, the adjustment is easy with the two tools helping you.
http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Adjustm...80GA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337924089&sr=8-1

One of the switches is the shift switch. It is a NO switch. The other switch is an overstroke switch and is NC. While your engine is running, depress the shift switch. Engine should stumble. You do still have points right?

Yeah, I took it off last weekend and tried doing it myself. I also have the tools and even took them to him just incase. But After I did it i must of cracked an ear on the shift guide cause it broke first shift in water. Took me a couple friends hour lifting drive up and down so im sure that did it.

Yes U do still have points. I just replaced them last week along with the condenser, rotor button and cap. When I had it started last night I tried depressing the switch and nothing, but I know for fact the worked before the transom cause I checked them one day to make sure worked

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Tach and ESA

Check the connector for the ESA and make sure it is plugged in and that the ESA's ground wire has not been broken and has a clean connection to the block. Might be worth taking it off and sanding it down and reinstalling it. Use a jumper wire to go around both switches to see if that makes it operate. Check power going into the connector.

You have an OMC manual? It shows the circuit and makes it easier to troubleshoot.

 

[sqhurt]

Re: Tach and ESA

Check the connector for the ESA and make sure it is plugged in and that the ESA's ground wire has not been broken and has a clean connection to the block. Might be worth taking it off and sanding it down and reinstalling it. Use a jumper wire to go around both switches to see if that makes it operate. Check power going into the connector.

You have an OMC manual? It shows the circuit and makes it easier to troubleshoot.

Yeah Got the one from this site, Ill see if can figure out how to do the jumper wire. Thanks

Put another coil on and didnt want to fire, fianlly got it and she is idleing really low. Shop timed it and set dwell yesterday on it atleast said they did. Tach seems to be working also as its shows around 3-400 rpm

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Tach and ESA

Tach seems to be working also as its shows around 3-400 rpm

Sounds like your tach's engine select is not selected correctly. Look at the back of the tach and make sure it is pointing at 4 cycle 4 cylinder. I doubt your engine can even idle at 300RPM. Or the tach is not working properly.

Did you set dwell with a dwell meter?

 

[sqhurt]

Re: Tach and ESA

Sounds like your tach's engine select is not selected correctly. Look at the back of the tach and make sure it is pointing at 4 cycle 4 cylinder. I doubt your engine can even idle at 300RPM. Or the tach is not working properly.

Did you set dwell with a dwell meter?

The shop that did my transom shift cable supposed to have, got billed for it. but on other hand the adjustments are all off so wouldnt be surprised if they didnt. I know for fact my esa worked before so hopefully its just in getting the shift cable set right and so fourth. Im about to try and post a video of starting and running give few mins

 

[sqhurt]

Re: Tach and ESA

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=408089612565347

 

[sqhurt]

Re: Tach and ESA

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=408094029231572&saved


If this dont work please let me know. Thanks

 

[doral1985]

Re: Tach and ESA

Nope dont open up says not available.

 

[sqhurt]

Re: Tach and ESA

Nope dont open up says not available.

Thank you! Hope I got them this time

 

[sqhurt]

Re: Tach and ESA

Would changing the coil to an higher output cause any problems just by doing that? The factory one was not reading correctly so got an accel universal high output and replaced it. Does timing/points/spark plug gap need changed also? Thanks

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Tach and ESA

changing the coil to anyhting other than a standard coil is basically a waste of money

 

[sqhurt]

Re: Tach and ESA

changing the coil to anyhting other than a standard coil is basically a waste of money

Niiiice... Would it make it run like that in the video?? Hard to start and low rpm? The shop I toke it to supposed to of checked time and dwell the day before I swapped the coils thats why asking