Testing Meter

[dstuard]

Will I be able to use a good voltage meter to test my stator? What does the DVA do that the volt meter does not? Just trying to learn more.

 

[sparkroost]

Re: Testing Meter

You can test it with a voltmeter using ohms. You just have to look up the specified value in the book and compare.<br /><br />DVA, digital voltage ammeter?<br /><br />If you are looking to buy something check out ebay for a Fluke 179 or 23, heck, just about any fluke will do, lol. I am thinking $50.00 you could get something nice. <br />Good functions are<br />Volts DC/AC to 600V<br />10 AMP current function<br />OHMS to 10Meg or greater<br />also if you are going to do any transducer testing you will most likely need the mili-amp DC/AC and mili-volts for the 20-400ma devices.<br /><br />If you want to actually see the signal from the stator you will need an oscilliscope. There not cheap by any means.

 

[dstuard]

Re: Testing Meter

Everything I read says I have to have a DVA meter and get the volts put out by the stator. Why could I not just use a volt meter for this? Should I get continuity where the trigger wires go to the switch box and the green wires go to coils? Still waiting on that manual.<br /><br />THis is what I have. Will this work or do I HAVE to have the adapter?<br /> http://www.esitest.com/cart/580.html

 

[sparkroost]

Re: Testing Meter

any electrical device should have continuity. Coils have low resistance, high current, high voltage. Stators also have low resistance on the windings.<br />As for seeing the trigger.. you can't with a voltmeter.<br /><br />The trigger is independant of the stator. Separate coil. Should be open from other devices. The trigger is what tells the computer, or solid state ignition, when to fire the coil.<br /><br />You will be able to read the voltage coming from the stator with most any multimeter. Set it for AC and connect BEFORE the rectifier. You really don't even need to do that. just connect the multimeter to the batery itself, set for DC. Start motor, rev up and look for the voltage to increase. Motor off should have in the neighborhood of 12.2 volts. Running with idle set high should increase that voltage. If stator is bad I don't think your tach will work, cause it's connected to the rectifier and not the trigger.

 

[dstuard]

Re: Testing Meter

That is the problem. My motor will not start at all. Not getting any fire to at least three of the plugs. The fire I am getting looks to be pretty weak sometimes also.

 

[sparkroost]

Re: Testing Meter

You will need a manual and a voltmeter to rule things out. Can't be of much help there without hands on and the electrical diagrams.

 

[dstuard]

Re: Testing Meter

Yeah. I have ordered the manual and I am ordering the DVA adapter tomorrow. No more messing around. I am getting a very weak spark on #1 and it is just part of the time. It will spark a couple of times and then quit. I am going to let it rest until I get my manual and adapter. Thanks for trying and I am sure I will have more ?????????? later.

 

[kenimpzoom]

Re: Testing Meter

You dont need a DVA. All you need is a good digital voltmeter and put it on AC. Multiply the readings by 1.41 and that will get you very close to DVA readings.<br /><br />All the DVA adapter does is retify the AC volts coming from the stator to DC volts and gives the peak DC volts.<br /><br />It has worked for me!<br /><br />Ken

 

[dstuard]

Re: Testing Meter

Ken - I did your calcualtions and this is what I came up with. <br /><br />Red to ground was 96<br />Red/white to ground was 112.8<br /><br />Blu was 759<br />Blu/White was 765<br /><br />My triggers all gave me around 5 volts each. Book calls for 180+ and 20 +<br /><br />Do I just not know what I am doing or could these be correct? If so then I have probably fried my boxes? <br /><br />So if I replace the stator and the boxes would I be in good shape since I have around 5 volts on the trigger? <br /><br />Someone please help!!!!

 

[petryshyn]

Re: Testing Meter

dstuard <br />To get true readings, you must use a peak reading meter. Not all meters sample the same and you're not working with a sine wave, so the 1.41 method will not be bang on for every meter. If you are electrically handy, you can build this $5 adapter that will give accurate readings when used with most any meter....<br /><br />

 

[dstuard]

Re: Testing Meter

Radio Shack did not have the exact stuff. I guess I will just order one. I probably would not trust it if I made it anyway. If anyone wants to borrow it after I get it all you have to do is ask. I will keep you informed. I did buy two switch boxes for cheap. Should I try those or test the stator first. Is there any chance the stator could blow these?

 

[dstuard]

Re: Testing Meter

^^^

 

[Hooty]

Re: Testing Meter

Hey Stuard,<br />The apapter that Schematic drew up for you works like a charm and it's easy to put together. The Diode doesn't have to be a IN4007. It can be an 04, 05, 06, etc. Even those jerks at Radio Shack should be able to help. Give it a try.<br /><br />c/6<br /><br />Hooty

 

[dstuard]

Re: Testing Meter

What about the .7 uf to 600 volt? Does that have to be exact? She had like a 1 that was 250 volt.

 

[petryshyn]

Re: Testing Meter

Buy 2 of those "1"s and connect them in series. You will be close enough.....

 

[dstuard]

Re: Testing Meter

So is the most important # on that the second one? Also is the thing on the right a half or quarter amp? This is fun and I have not even bought the stuff yet. Thanks for all the replies guys. I would have quit by now if it were not for you.

 

[petryshyn]

Re: Testing Meter

the "thing" on the right is a bleeder resistor. 1/2 or 1/4 watt will do.... 10 mega-ohms resistance.

 

[dstuard]

Re: Testing Meter

Sorry shematic - So I just connect the two "1" and treat the two of them like they are one piece? Is that the capacitor?

 

[petryshyn]

Re: Testing Meter

<br /><br />

 

[dstuard]

Re: Testing Meter

Built it but as my stupidity shows I could not get a good reading or figure out how to read it. Put the used switch boxes on and it fired right up. Took it to the lake and it still did not have full power. Better than before but still not full. Idles smooth as a babies bottom but when I tried to take off it got an intermittent miss. Actually it was more like lack of power and the miss was more of a surge of power. I felt like one of the carbs was trying to work but not getting it done. Any ideas on this one? Would all the trying to start it with no spark have fouled my plugs? Still not fixed but I am at least happy that I have spark.