Testing Neutral safety switch

[brim_buster]

I started at the solenoid. I have the neutral switch line ( yellow/ red ) on the lower post and a black wire on the top small post and with key off and I touch my test light on the black wire I get a light. Is there always power going to that wire with key off?
Im trouble shooting a no start problem trying to determine why I can start the boat sometimes and other times I have nothing. I was thinking maybe the neutral switch in the control box was going bad. With the key on I have no light on neutral switch post or when I turn the key.

 

[racerone]

Something is wrong.-----Find a wiring diagram for your motor.-----If 12 volts is on that wee black wire all the time something is wrong.-----With your testing method or wiring.

 

[alldodge]

Is it a no start, or no crank?
No start means it cranks but doesn't start, this would be purple wire
No crank would be yellow/red and/or neutral safety switch, ignition switch and starter

Sounds like no crank, so your in the correct circuit.
If you connect one side to 12V then the test light will light when grounded

 

[brim_buster]

Ok its a no crank situation. So if I have power to the thin black wire than that means something is grounded..Correct? I grounded my test light at the starter and touched the main red wire to solenoid and I have a light. Touch the little black wire and I have light. With the key off on on.

 

[alldodge]

Touch the little black wire and I have light. With the key off or on.

Post pic of the black wire

 

[racerone]

I believe you need to review 12 volts / wires / testing.----I believe you are not testing this correctly !!

 

[brim_buster]

So I just went out to take pictures. Took cowl off and grounded my test light and checked black wire. No light. I said thats odd because it lit up before. So I went got the key and put it the ignition but didnt turn it on. Still no light. I hit the key and it fired up and ran. This is the problem Im having. Some days it will crank and fire and other times it wont

 

[brim_buster]

I believe you need to review 12 volts / wires / testing.----I believe you are not testing this correctly !!

No different than a car. Fire should only go to the igniter post when you turn key. Im pretty good when it comes to ohm testing circuits. Im almost sure Im doing this right its common sense. When the key if off that igniter post shouldnt have power unless its shorted. Its a brand new solenoid and key ignition. Why when it wont crank is that black wire hot? When it does crank its not. I might have an underlying problem somewhere else but I started there first. Am I missing something or am just not thinking properly. I am in my 50's and wear readers....LOL

 

[alldodge]

Go to wally word or other and pick up a cheap volt/ohmmeter. Check that black wire to see if it has a good ground by measuring ohms from stud to ground. Wiggle the wire around to see if it looses connection.

Disconnect the yellow/red wire from solenoid. Attach probe to wire and measure volts with key in start position, wiggle the wire also

 

[brim_buster]

Go to wally word or other and pick up a cheap volt/ohmmeter. Check that black wire to see if it has a good ground by measuring ohms from stud to ground. Wiggle the wire around to see if it looses connection.

Disconnect the yellow/red wire from solenoid. Attach probe to wire and measure volts with key in start position, wiggle the wire also

I have a volt meter I will post the results

 

[racerone]

You need to review the way this is wired up !!-----Something is not right.

 

[brim_buster]

went out there today and wouldnt crank. 12.86 volts on battery. Had the wife come out and turn the key and no light on black wire. Time to go through the whole wiring I guess and look for the problem. Ive got time to kill. I have the wiring diagram so gonna start inside the control box I guess and get at it. Thanx for all the help gentlemen

 

[alldodge]

Look forward to reading what the issue was, maybe something simple like the switch