Re: Thinking of removing brakes - double axle with 19 Cape Horn
UPDATE: I ended up swapping to disc and the job is nearly done... a few things to finish today... new actuator, new lines. I also swapped the axle, shackles and hardware while I was doing the job... as well as swapped the hubs on the other axle.
1. I thought about the rotation to mount the caliber... and ended up putting on the rearmost (90 degree, 3 o'clock). When I lowered the rig, the top caliber mounting bolt was within 1/4 inch of the frame. Luckily, I didnt have time to bleed the system and even install bearing covers, so its still accessible this morning to adjust. I plan to just rotate the assembly one more level, which will put the caliber at 135 degree (4 o'clockish) closer to the road. Is there any concern with the caliber being this low? Besides possible road debrie... what about function, since the lines, cylinder are now lower? Seems like a simple answer, but figured I would ask.
2. I had torque specs for the caliber mounting bolts (40 ft/lbs). What about these specs... The mounting bolts that hold the disc flange to the axel? The U-bolt kits that bolts the axel to the springs? And the bolts that bolt the spring to the trailer frame/tandom bracket? Everything has lock washers.
3. The hub castle nut... (think of "spires" on the castle nut for reference). When I installed the hub and tightened the nut, then backed off one click (spire). Seemed to rotate the wheel just fine. If I backed off 2 clicks (2 spires) it gave the wheel a slight 1/16 inch wobble (or caster). I went with 1 click... but didnt know if that might be too tight?
Thanks again... I'll post pics and review when done... I went with Deemax brakes (great price). Heard from alot of people they were engineered by a Kodiak guy and they work great. A local installer said he has been using them for years on saltwater installs. Heard lots of mixed reviews about Tie Down though.
