Thompson resto

dirtdiver

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 9, 2010
Messages
118
Re: Thompson resto

That whole spot looks to me like a patch of some sort. Alot of boats had problems from that era of de-laminating. Looks as if someone tried to patch for that problem. I could be wrong. I would drill wholes and check the condition of the shavings.
Looks like we have our work cut out for us. The motor mount as well as the stringers look like they aren't original and are rotted... The transom also looks like it was redone by the same person. Any suggestions on how to tackle this? Any special tools I will need?
 

dirtdiver

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 9, 2010
Messages
118
Re: Thompson resto

Here what it looked like under the floor...
1229101944.jpg

notice the untreated 2x4s and the nice rusty nails used to hold the floor down

There was about 2in gap between the plywood and the hull of the boat. It was just fiberglass
1230101709.jpg


Are the stingers supposed to go all the way to the edge? or stop like this
1230101709a.jpg


Heres where the real fun is starting. The engine mount doesnt look to be in good shape either. So once the engine is out we'll be able to check the transom... Hopefully its in good shape but if its not theres no sense in doing everything else and not that...
1230101835a.jpg
 

dirtdiver

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 9, 2010
Messages
118
Re: Thompson resto

I'm on page 140 of oops hull extension thread and it's giving me more question. Being a 20ft cuddy what kind of fiberglass should I use? Im confused as to what to buy because one book says to use one type of glass and someone else says to use another. I'm planning on using epoxy. I've been looking around for a supplier and I think I'm going to use us composites.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Thompson resto

hi buddy.....


read the thread.....actually....it all looks great under the deck.....stringers good.....dont worry about no foam....you just saved your self a step....its a real pita to remove.
the patch on the back of the transom could be factory.... but you have to pull the motor to get at the motor mount that is rotten....so when the motor is out, thats when you do your core samples on the transom....if its good...leave it....just seal any hole that is drilled into the transom.

ok....resin and glass...

in short......2 things......imho....you are wasting your money using epoxy. fiberglass with poly resin is as strong as steel....and something as strong as steel is even far stronger than you need.....but my friend....its your boat...you can build it however and with whatever you want !

if you choose to use epoxy....do not use chopped strand matt.
csm is made with a chemical binder (glue) that is dissolved by the styrene in polyester resin. epoxy does not contain the styrene...so the csm will remain rigid and not do what it is supposed to do.
as well as that, epoxy is such a good glue.....that it does not require the use of a "sponge" between the resin rich layer between the cloth and the sub-straight.

i dont know what 1080 is but you can buy the same fabric as 1708 without chopped strand matt.
then....with a good cloth..either the 1080 or the 17 oz fabric..you can apply in the same fashion as i did in my thread.

the process is exactaly the same...but the mixing and temperature adjustments are not necessary with epoxy.
you will however, need to keep the glassing area temp controlled.

ok.....
when you are glassing a stringer or mount.....use a small piece of fabric to "tab" the stringers into place. then a large piece to actually glass them in..
use a few layers on the mounts.

this whole project started because of a weak floor......you might want to add more support braces on the flat on top of the stringers.....yep...glass them in to....then glass the under side as well as the top side of your deck.....(that is why your deck got soft because on one glassed the under side of it)

let us know how you are doing bud.....

cheers
oops
 

dirtdiver

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 9, 2010
Messages
118
Re: Thompson resto

Seems most of the guys on here perfer poly over epoxy. I just thought from reading that epoxy would be easier and safer to work with. Requiring less layers and therefore less time and less resin. Am I wrong? If I am then I'll just use poly. I'm looking on us composites.com for glass and the only 1708 I can find has csm bound to it. Wouldn't that make it harder to bend over top of the stingers?
 

dirtdiver

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 9, 2010
Messages
118
Re: Thompson resto

Does polyester resin have a shelf life?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Thompson resto

Does polyester resin have a shelf life?

Kinda, If you store it in a Kool, Dry, DARK place it should last quite a while. Store it in warm sunlight then it will deteriorate pretty quickly. The MEKP is the culprit.
 

dirtdiver

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 9, 2010
Messages
118

dirtdiver

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 9, 2010
Messages
118
Re: Thompson resto

Well Im in afghanistan right now, my wife and brother in law are picking up where we left off before I deployed. I ened up going with poly resin. I'll have her keep you guys posted and she'll probably have questions to ask.
 
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