Tillotson TC-5E float needle valve

WinnerCougar74

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I have a 1974 Chrysler 135hp with two Tillotson RC-5E carbs. The float needle valve is all metal and new parts also look like all metal. No rubber/viton tip. Is this correct? Is there a rubber/viton seal inside the carb body? Just double checking since most float needles have to seal completely.
 

Nordin

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If the needle is all in metal there is a rubber seal in the seat in the carb body.
If the needle has a rubber tip there is no seal in the body.
Check with a flashlight if there is a seal in the carb body or not, someone else (if the engine is new to you) could have put in a wrong needle.
 

jerryjerry05

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If the needle is all metal and no rubber in the seat?? then the carb will leak fuel.
IF?? the seat has the rubber in it, then be careful what cleaners and soaks and additives you use, as the seat can swell shutting off the flow.
If it swells? rinse in soapy water and let air dry. The swelling will go away eventually.
 

WinnerCougar74

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I have a metal only inlet needle. But when I look into the seat area I do not see any rubber, I only see metal. So then that means it is not sealing properly, Could this lead to a generally rich mixture and chronic fouling of plugs in a short period of time?
 

WinnerCougar74

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Well, my own personal parts bin saved the day again. I have another complete set of carbs and they have inlet seats with rubber tips. I wonder how I can find replacements if these ever fail.
 

jerryjerry05

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Granger might have needles??
Could this lead to a generally rich mixture and chronic fouling of plugs in a short period of time? Yes. It will allow excess fuel and make it run bad.
 

racerone

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Chronic fouling would not be caused by a wee bit of leakage on float needles.----There must be other things to check out.
 

WinnerCougar74

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I also discovered the main jet was one size too big. 0.0960 when it should be 0.0937
 

WinnerCougar74

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Well, the inlet needle with the rubber tip does not fit into my carb. I put it in and it leaked a lot. Wow, I have been waiting for the last 6 years for a cheap little part that turns this motor into a boat anchor. I wonder if this is it. Hmm, How can I make this inlet needle seal? Would a tiny little o-ring put inside the needle seat seal it properly? Who ever heard of a carb that you can't replace the inlet needle seat.
 

Nordin

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From my experience there are two typs of inlet needles.
One with rubber tip and one without.
If a rubber tip there is a brass seat in the carb body and if no rubber tip there is a rubber or maybe a viton seat in the body.
I would suggest you to talk to Franz Buddenburg at Franz Marine Service.
He will know, he is the Chrysler/Force guru.
 

jerryjerry05

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You have the old parts, I have a bunch of New/old stock needles/jets? Take a couple of pics next to a ruler I might have something that will fit??
 

racerone

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Hurry to a shop.-----Boat / small engine / motorcycle / automotive.-----Somebody can find a simple solution I think.
 

WinnerCougar74

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Ok, had the boat out today. Ran it about 3 hours. It's running pretty good now. No plug fouling all day. I think switching to the L82C conventional plugs is the key. I don't plan on running WOT. Plus I used a 1.5mm spacer to keep the plug away from the piston. I'll pull the plugs soon post pics. I did also go down one on the jet from 0.096 to 0.0937. I think I may go to 0.0920 (found a set on PartsVu.com) since now it doesn't want to start if I turn it off and fish a little and start it back up. Otherwise it runs very good now. Thanks for the help. I will try to find a motorcycle or snowmobile shop if I need them.
 

jerryjerry05

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Going down too far in jets can cause a bunch of trouble. Running too lean,can make it run too hot and that can cause it to burn holes in the top of the pistons( did that on a motorcycle back in 1972, burned a 150$ hole in a piston. $150 in 1972 was a BUNCH of $$$.
 

WinnerCougar74

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Someone advised me a few years ago that if you get a Chrysler outboard to run decen then just run it instead of constantly tinkering with it. Maybe I'll just pull the plugs and see what they look like.
 

WinnerCougar74

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So, what does it mean if the motor is hard to start when it's warms? Otherwise running good. Right now I'm right around 7/8 turn out on the slow speed screws. I think I might be so afraid of fouling I'm running to lean. Here are the plugs from about 4 hours out on the water mostly cruising around 1200 rpms marking fish and trying to foul the plugs. These are L82C Champions. Recommended by a mechanic at Burt Goodnough's Marina East, 9245 State Rte 3, Sandy Creek, NY 13145 on the east side of Lake Ontario.
1747259085813.png
 

Nordin

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From my experience and in my opinion these plugs looks good from just running at slow speed and as they are not "burn brown/grey" the engine has not been at higher speed with these plugs.
I would suggest you to set the air/fuel mixture screws at 1 turn out.
With they at 7/8 turn out there is a risk that you will run lean at WOT and melt a piston.
How does it idle with the air fuel mixture screws at 1 turn out?
 

WinnerCougar74

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One nice thing about tweaking the mixture screws is I should be able to do it at home in the driveway. I messed with them a lot last time out on the water. I'm going to mess with the mixtures screws in my driveway and see what happens. Especially now that I'm feeling more confident about not fouling plugs. I could live with a ruff idle if overall it runs better and is safer. I didn't know an 1/8 turn too lean could burn a piston.
 
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