Re: Tilt and trim
I have a 93 120 Hp force. The tilt and trim is.not.working th motor works fine but for some reason the oil wont go through the lines to tilt the.motor up and down. Ive done everything I know to do and believe my problem is the.cylinder on the pump is not working correctly I'm looking for just that part or advice on what else to try all the mechanics ive talked are no help they tell me I screwed it up which I'm very aware of that but that's about all they say. One told me yesterday it would be 1100 to replace the pump but I found one last night for 275 any help would be great.ive been jacking with this thing for 2 weeks.
Ive done all that my oil want go through the lines at all it was working fine until I drained it Bc there was water in the fluid and once I drained it and filled it back it up it wont go.up or down anymore.
if your fluid is red then you have probably blown out the trim piston ring. The red fluid impregnates itself under pressure and cause the oring to crystalize and then crumble. Assuming that your boat is freshwater then you can rebuild the cylinders while they are still on boat. the parts are under $50 and can be found on ebay. your trim cover bolts will be stretched on an engine that big. be careful removing the old ones since they are weakened and quickly snap. makes sure to install new SS socket head bolts as part of rebuild.
when the piston ring splits, it generates debris. you need to rebuild all the rams, flush out the tubing, and clean the pump. That model pump (if original 1993 with square base and four downward facing tubes) is easy to clean and fairly intuitive to assemble. You have to take it 100% down such that every possible fluid passage can be cleaned and flushed (use pipe cleaners and compressed air). Either leave the needle valve tips as they are or have the pump professionally rebuilt. Do not try to replace the rubber seats located oin the tip of the check valve needle. try not to lose the plastic ball that goes between pump and base. it is hard to find a replacement. Although I always replace them, I think it is probably a waste. I can't recall having ever seen a bad one. the metal balls are just standard industrial grade ball bearing like the ones they sell at grainger. prelube seals and gears during assembly. if the gears run dry - even for a second - they have a track record of burning the aluminum and ruining the pump. I have found that vaseline with a solder flux brush works perfectly. use iso32 hydraulic oil to fill system when finished.
but to reiterate -
your system probably has red fluid and the trim piston oring has split. Your entire system must be completely broken down and rebuilt to remove the debris. the eaton style pump (tall and skinny with square base) does not have a debris filter. flushing is inadequate and usually causes you to do the work over again within a few months.
this pump should fit your boat. i just happen to see it. very rare poart that hardly anybody ever wants. but it is cheap and might save you the effort of rebuilding your old pump.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250980202615
