Tilt motor not working-Only makes noise

[kenny nunez]

The buttons on the control handle are for the hydraulic pump that raises and lowers the front of the engine. It appears that the pump motor needs to be repaired. There should be a separate switch to raise the drive for trailering or beaching. Does that still operate ?

 

[Serf27]

The buttons on the control handle are for the hydraulic pump that raises and lowers the front of the engine. It appears that the pump motor needs to be repaired. There should be a separate switch to raise the drive for trailering or beaching. Does that still operate ?

There are 4 buttons there. The outer buttons that cause the clicking sound, those would operate the drive. I don’t see any other buttons on the boat. Besides a few switches that operate lights/pumps.

Is there anyway I can check if the hydraulic pump has fluid? Maybe it just needs fluid, before I take it apart.
Thanks.

 

[kenny nunez]

There is a large slotted screw on the side of the lower pump housing. Power steering fluid is a good substitute if it is low on fluid. If it is then you will find the leak when you run the pump.
On an OMC application there is always a separate toggle or rocker switch on the instrument panel for the drive tilt motor. The control you have is mostly for hydraulic trim/tilt systems with a Mercruiser application.

 

[Serf27]

There is a large slotted screw on the side of the lower pump housing. Power steering fluid is a good substitute if it is low on fluid. If it is then you will find the leak when you run the pump.
On an OMC application there is always a separate toggle or rocker switch on the instrument panel for the drive tilt motor. The control you have is mostly for hydraulic trim/tilt systems with a Mercruiser application.

Thanks. I see the slotted screw, but wasn’t sure if it was for fluid. I will try to fill it up and see how it goes.
Could I use Autozone brand power steering fluid?

I do not see any other switch. The switches I see, have no function at all, they don’t work for anything.
Does the drive tilt motor just have 2 wires going to it?
in my videos, I show a set of blue and green wires running to the bottom side of the engine.

 

[Serf27]

Ok some progress has been made!
I added fluid to the engine trim pump and now the engine is tilting up and down.

Still haven’t figured out anything about the drive tilt.
With the engine trimmed all the way up, it is a lot easier to access the drive tilt motor for removal.
Should I remove the drive tilt motor or replace the solenoids first?
What I believe is the tilt motor, has 3 wires actually. Now that I got a closer look.
GRN
BLU
BLK

here is a video of the engine trim in action.
https://youtu.be/YJcJv_YczdE

 

[southkogs]

When I did mine, I went ahead and replaced the solenoids because I didn't really know how to test them. If you test yours and they appear to be working I would go at the tilt motor, it's a pretty typical culprit.

Nice job on the trim. Mine was never that smooth.

 

[Serf27]

When I did mine, I went ahead and replaced the solenoids because I didn't really know how to test them. If you test yours and they appear to be working I would go at the tilt motor, it's a pretty typical culprit.

Nice job on the trim. Mine was never that smooth.

Hey, thank you!
yea right now I see no visible leaks from the trim motor now. Probably leaked out over time.

I’m in the same boat, ha.
As far as not knowing how to test the solenoids.

 

[southkogs]

The solenoids when I did mine were pretty cheap, so I didn't mind putting new ones in. It still turned out to the be the motor, and if you've not had that off to inspect since you've gotten the boat ... I would say it's an (almost) inevitable step you'll have to take. If it's relatively convenient at the moment to pull it and clean/rebuild/service ... do it.

 

[kenny nunez]

The tilt motor down on the port side probably needs to be replaced/serviced. How many wires and what colors are there coming to and out of the control handle? Having the drive tilt switch on the control handle is not a good thing. It could cause the drive to be tilted while running and strip the ball gears and cause the 2-3k damage I posted earlier.
Try to take a still picture of the handle and wires.

 

[Serf27]

Thanks southkogs, I am probably going to pull it out. With the engine all the way up, it’s a bit easier to access it. My only concern is, in the parts diagram, it shows multiple small pieces behind it, I don’t want to take the 2 bolts holding the pump in then a whole bunch of other parts come flying out.

Kenny, the control/accelerator handle has 4 wires I believe. I will post a picture of it later.
The ball gears are the ones that spin from the engine? That drive the drive right? I think I posted a picture of those in an earlier post.

Meanwhile, is a photo of what I believe is my tilt pump, 3 wires coming from it.
A photo of the parts diagram(#37)
and a photo of the actual tilt pump(new)
lookig at the diagram, do you guys think all those small parts in front of the pump are internal? Or do they go on the outside of the pump? Thanks.

 

[southkogs]

Yes! Watch it when you take it apart.

I'm not sure on the flange style, but on mine the mounting bolts held the motor assembly together. It wouldn't go too nuts, but it did want to disassemble. You also need to watch the hammer coupling from inside the tilt gear (34 & 35 on your diagram) ... that little bugger wants to jump down your bilge, and you don't want to pay to replace it. If it comes apart it's easy to put together, but make sure you keep track of the pieces.

 

[Serf27]

Ok got it noted.
The space I have to access the motor, looks like just enough space to pull it out, but if multiple parts are involved and ready to fall out, do you think it’s a good idea or achievable with the engine in the boat?

 

[southkogs]

Sure ... did it a few times before I got it right

Don't need to pull the engine. You might bruise a rib, need some vaseline, grease and beer ... but you can get it.

 

[Serf27]

Ok, I tried to take off the tilt motor, I removed 2 1.5” screws, but it did not come out at all. There are 2 more screws on the motor, do those need to come out also? They look like screws that hold the motor together, not mounting screws.

Also the trim motor stopped working, but I jumped the solenoid and it works, so that says the solenoid is bad correct?
here are some pictures of the 2 bolts left on the motor, and pictures of the accelerator with wires and buttons.

 

[southkogs]

Having never removed the flange type, I'm assuming the other screws have to come out too. I think that's what holds the motor assembly in place with the worm gear.

That'd be my best guess on your solenoids. I'd replace 'em.

 

[kenny nunez]

The 2 bolts that mount the motor to the intermediate housing are all you need to remove to get the tilt motor off. Sometimes the gasket has it stuck. The pre 400-800 series were mounted with the 2 long 1/4” 20 3/8ths hex head which made reassembly a problem because the motor would fall apart while trying to remount it. I always wrapped tape around the motor to hold it together for remounting. The later models are a lot easier to remount.
On the control handle pictures 2 of the wires should be the ignition neutral safety. The other 3 are for trim. I still say that there is supposed to be a separate instrument panel switch just for the tilt only.
The ball gears picture is where the damage will happen if the drive is operated not fully down. What happens is the ball gears wear each other out and one slips over the other which causes the upper gear case and the intermediate to get pushed apart and the housings are distorted. It would be like putting a Porta-Power jack between the 2 parts. If just the ball gears are replaced after this happens they will wear out in about 1 hour or less.

 

[Serf27]

Thanks for the reply guys.
I will go ahead and order all new solenoids.
they are about $30 a piece, so 4 will add up, ha.

The neutral safety wires on the handle broke, the handle fell and one of the wires got caught on top and broke the inner sensor, I just reworked those to a button on the instrument panel. So the wires from the picture is what’s left for the tilt/trim I’m guessing?

i don’t see any other buttons or switches that indicate trim movement on the panel though.

Ok, no moving the trim while driving the boat.
Once I get the boat in the water, this is the process for driving correct?
lower drive all the way down, accelerate then use engine tilt to adjust the drive, never move tilt motor while boat is moving correct?
These are the 2 bolts I removed.
also, that yellow wire was the neutral safety switch. I cut it and rerouted it to the instrument panel.
Drive tilt issue was before this re-wire, so that isn’t the issue.

 

[kenny nunez]

I still want to know what controls the tilt for the drive unit. It would not be hard to wire a separate switch on the instrument panel.

 

[Serf27]

I still want to know what controls the tilt for the drive unit. It would not be hard to wire a separate switch on the instrument panel.

I tired to jump the wires on the tilt pump.
Black wire to negative, either green or blue wire to positive. Nothing happens.
Guessing the wires that power it come from the solenoids.
If I could find the wires that control it, I would like to put a switch on the instrument panel.

 

[JBtwist]

This thread is really interesting. I'm glad to see some other people having the same issue (knowing I'm not alone!! . I have an almost identical setup - the motor on the starboard side is trim, on the port side is tilt. I'm having similar issues, so I've been trying to diagnose if it's the solenoid or the motor. I can't get consistent operation or failure. It seems to do something different every time.