Time to start trailer rehab

treebound

Cadet
Joined
Mar 3, 2013
Messages
16
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

That's what I'd do just to be on the safe side. Northern Tool sells springs and shackles if you don't have a decent/reasonable trailer shop nearby. I always look at spring steel as being similar to the steel in files where it just breaks without showing much if any cracks. Better safe than sorry. In the mean time maybe add some rubber snubber blocks to the frame where the axle would hit if the springs bottom out or do break. You seem pretty resourcefull and self-reliant and capable, you'll get it sorted out.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

That's what I'd do just to be on the safe side. Northern Tool sells springs and shackles if you don't have a decent/reasonable trailer shop nearby. I always look at spring steel as being similar to the steel in files where it just breaks without showing much if any cracks. Better safe than sorry. In the mean time maybe add some rubber snubber blocks to the frame where the axle would hit if the springs bottom out or do break. You seem pretty resourcefull and self-reliant and capable, you'll get it sorted out.

First of all, you seem to do great work refurbish things. Your boat looks great and your new(er) trailer looks real nice as well. As far as those springs go, if you plan on changing one, change both at the same time so they are of the same type, metal, and temper. And the tongue length seems long but is not a huge problem. The longer tongue will allow you to back down the ramp and keep your vehicle high and dry. It will also make backing up a lot less finicky and not so quick responsive, an easier controlling setup. However, IF you see it as a hindrance then a help, cutting it shorter and reinstalling the hitch is a simple answer too. I'll keep watching your progress. Again you do good work...
 

BF

Lieutenant
Joined
Apr 8, 2003
Messages
1,489
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

Hi,

Looking good so far... here's my $.02. The trailer looks long for the boat. I like the tongue to be long enough that I can open the lift gate of my expedition (or van) while the boat is hitched up. Longer than that isn't necessary (unless you launch/retrieve at very shallow launches). It may also be that the springs are heavier than they need to be for the weight of your boat. Given one is mis-shaped, I'd replace them. It's also your chance to better match the carrying capacity of the springs to the load you're putting on it. Too stiff of springs will give your boat rough/stiff ride.

As for the rollers. They were fine how they were. You should put them back. The keel does not need to be sitting on them while the boat is on the trailer. The problem you'll have without them is that when retrieving, especially on steeper launches, the bow will slide between the bunks and hit the trailer cross member before the bunks start supporting the boat. When the rollers are there, you can back in until the front one is just out of the water, and then pull the boat onto it. As you crank the winch the bow will ride that roller until the hull gets pulled onto the bunks. Then the bunks support the hull, and the roller will be bellow the keel. The rearmost roller may not end up doing anything (the keel at the bow may just float over it), but it's good to leave it there.

I have a similar trailer that did not have those rollers. After a couple launches/retrieves at our lakes steepish launch, I went and bought some and mounted them like yours were originally.

I don't know if you're re-wiring it... but I really like LED lights... I've replaced all the old bulb lights on my trailers with them. Don't forget to bolt a chain onto the winch post to chain the bow eye when trailering.

Good luck.

<edit>
Just looked at your pict's again... when you're retreiving, you'll probably back in until the middle (2nd) roller is just out of the water (which is what I meant), not the one that is farthest to the front. The front one will catch the keel at the bow and keep it from hitting the frame as you winch the boat up to the bow stop...
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,475
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

Thanks for your reply Treebound , gm280, and BF !

BF there was no keel rollers on the trailer other than the front one when I bought it .. I was going to add rollers but with the shape of the trailer support beams the brackets were not tall enough to ketch the keel . So I am installing a extra set of bunks closer to the keel with no rollers except at the front . I did purchase a new set of LED lights to install . :) I am also considering a set of guides for the sides ..
Now I need some guidance . Should I install the center bunks on the strakes closest to the keel or the next one over ?
DSC01100_zpsf92dc2e9.jpg

Thanks everyone for your advice !!
 

joelybob

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 30, 2012
Messages
224
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

they hold the plates that the lights are mounted on
 

joelybob

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 30, 2012
Messages
224
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

sorry i didnt go to the second page i was on first page. those eye bolts you said po put on there they hold a flat metal plate and then the lights are mounted to that plate. and it holds your license plate also. wish i had a picture to post for you
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,475
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

OK that makes sense .. It was also suggested that you can mount a set of eye rings to it for transom straps . Maybe a plate that will do both . I wonder if I can find something pre-made . If not I guess I could fab it myself ..
 

joelybob

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 30, 2012
Messages
224
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

I use the hook things on the side of the trailer to put strap over boat. think 5x7 piece of thin steel would work for light brackets. I looked on ez loaders web site and couldn't find brackets. I will try to take a picture of mine tomorrow so you can see how it looks and how they attached them
 

joelybob

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 30, 2012
Messages
224
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

untitledsn1.jpguntitledsn2.jpgsn3.jpgsn4.jpg Pictures are not the greatest but these are the light plates that came with my trailer just to give you an idea. note that i removed i bolt. have not put it back in since trailer resto. hope this helps. again sorry about photo quality
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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11,475
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

Thanks for the pics joelybob ! I kinda get the idea . Are the second and third pictures upside down ? I have some 1-1\2" x 3" and 5" 12ga galvanized angle that I think I can fabricate the brackets with ..
Here is my bunk set placement .
DSC01158_zpsda25052f.jpg

You guys think it will work ok ?
 

joelybob

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 30, 2012
Messages
224
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

my bad. pictures are up side down. new phone, got to remember which way to hold phone. i guess i was to busy holding plate to notice. hopefully next week i can start putting my trailer together.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,591
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

Will be interesting when you load your boat how often the keel happens to fall in that slot. Might be worthwhile launching in that configuration a few times and see how it works.
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,475
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

Will be interesting when you load your boat how often the keel happens to fall in that slot. Might be worthwhile launching in that configuration a few times and see how it works.

I was thinking the same thing . I think if I install some guides on the sides maybe it will fall in the slot . Or jump to one side or the other and really tick me off ! LOL ! :pout::mmph::doh::eek:hwell:
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,475
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

Here is my winch set up . I picked up a 2500 lbs rated one from N/Tool . 2000 lbs rated strap . Probably a little bigger than I need but I needed one wide enough so the handle would clear the mounting plate on the post ..
DSC01159_zpsdb77c10c.jpg

And no I did,t get my fingers stuck in the gears . I put some left over axle grease on them .. :lol:
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Re: Time to start trailer rehab

I bought this set of lights about a year ago .
DSC01160_zps413c07dc.jpg

On the front of the package it had boat trailers listed for one of it,s intended uses . In the packaging in stated Do Not Submerge not intended for marine use . :mad::mad-new::rant: If they won,t take it back is there anyway to make it waterproof ..
 

sphelps

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Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,475
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

Here is my plan for mounting the lights . I cut a piece of 12 ga galvanized angle and will bolt it on using the eyebolt the po installed .
DSC01164_zps650e604a.jpg

DSC01163_zps189f39eb.jpg

As you can see it was small enough to leave a gap at the bottom for feeding wires and drainage .
I assume I should ground the lights to the frame and not the add on angle .
 

joelybob

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 30, 2012
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224
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

Looks awesome Sphelps. better than factory:joyous:
 

fat fanny

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Feb 9, 2006
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1,935
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

Man those bunk brackets are pretty high I would suggest to get the boats center of gravity as low to the trailer as possible plus this will add a stability factor and make the bracket a weak point (they could bend over time from retrieving) I would also suggest spreading them out as wide as possible to help as others mentioned hitting the center of the trailer when loading. Also the rollers are to never touch the boat after being loaded onto trailer they are just for avoiding damage tot he keel when loading. Hope this helps and the trailer and rig look very nice!
 

bruceb58

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Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,591
Re: Time to start trailer rehab

I bought this set of lights about a year ago .
On the front of the package it had boat trailers listed for one of it,s intended uses . In the packaging in stated Do Not Submerge not intended for marine use . :mad::mad-new::rant: If they won,t take it back is there anyway to make it waterproof ..
Don't bother submerging those. They aren't waterproof and there is no way of making them waterproof.
 
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