threads wont rust as long as you put them back in after draining, leave em out.... the receiving threads will most certainly corrode and rust...
What motor do you have? My plugs dont go into cast iron but into brass bung
threads wont rust as long as you put them back in after draining, leave em out.... the receiving threads will most certainly corrode and rust...
No, you do not need to buy new ones unless they're damaged, or you want to swap from plastic to brass (or vice versa).
While I agree that it's best to drain the PS cooler, it's a pain and physically impossible for me to do any longer. Instead, I disconnect that hose at the water pump and pour 1/2 gallon of AF through it. The AF will run out the bottom of the outdrive. If you have an air compressor, you could blow the water out first, then treat whatever might be left in the cooler and hose with AF.
My .02
peter_a My boat is out o the water since last Saturday. I will be winterizing it next sunday. Now that I have some very good info from you guys, I feel confortable to do a good job. I have not look for my drain plugs yet but kno were to look now. My only concern is that my twin engines are pretty close together. Hope there is room to see the Block Drain Plug on the bottom!!
Air compressor and Shop Vac, Yes I have and will use them if require.
I will get back with the conclusion.
Thank you again Guys.
I seem to recall seeing some pictures of boats that have a plug on the line going into the power steering fluid cooler. Would that be available as an add-on? Emptying the PS cooler line is my least favorite part of winterizing. The fewer hoses I have to disconnect, the better!