tin boat project

corzy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
152
Hey guys, first time posting in this section! just wondering if i could get a bit of advice on a few questions?
I just bought an alumacraft 16' tin banger, basically just the boat, no engine...i drove a long way to get it and of coarse when i get there the transom was rotten, so got a real nice deal on it, but he also said no leaks....got it home, totally stripped down, looks pretty nice after a power wash, but in the rain today, i checked under and saw maybe 2 real slow leaks...ive read on here before about a seam sealer for aluminum boats, does it work? what is it called, and where can i get it? it looked like the leak is right at the seam at the transom, and there was also a bit of water coming from the weap hole at the very back of the boat in the part that runs all the way from the bow to the stern underneath in the very middle (not sure what thats called) and have no idea how i would find that leak since it could be from anywhere in the middle of the boat (hopefully not under one of the left to right stringers as i have no clue how you could fix that...
also i have a line on a merc 200 (20 hp) from the 70's...the lady said its been in storage since 81 haha over 30 years, her mechanic changed fluids and it apparently started right up....good or bad that its sat that long? also its a tiller, so is it a big deal to change to front controls? the boat already has the forward steering hooked up, im sure thats easy enough to hook up, but not too sure about the throttle/gears.....oh she wants 400 for it (750 with the boat, and the boat is in real good shape, so im sure i could get her down to like 300)
any advise would be great
thanks
 

boatnut74

Lieutenant Commander
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Aug 29, 2010
Messages
1,835
Re: tin boat project

The seam and rivet sealer is called Gluvit. It works really well and can be bought right here at iboats. If you find leaking rivets you should re-buck them befor applying the gluvit. That 20hp motor might be a little small for that boat. Something in the 50hp range would probably be more sufficient.
 

corzy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
152
Re: tin boat project

thanks for the response, ill order some if the boat store in town doesn't have any....now as for the motor, do you think it wont plane the boat? i dont need to go super fast, just enough to get out of some ruff water if the wind comes up...for now, until i find one im just putting my trolling motor 2hp on to putt around.......
also on the transom, it was screwed into place with machine screws...is this normal? and what do you use to seal the holes after drilled?
thanks
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: tin boat project

Look for a motor that is compatable with your controls for an easy installation.

You really should post pics of your boat when asking for advice so you can get the answers that best suit your needs.
 

corzy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
152
Re: tin boat project

i dont have throttle/gear controls, just steering, does each motor have different steering controls? and i wish it was that easy, not a lot of motors for sale near us (that i can afford anyways)
what would you like to see? ill try and put some pics up
 

corzy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
152
Re: tin boat project

5N65Eb5Hd3F43N63H2c4rf8ee40017ca312d1.jpg5K75Fb5M93Ec3m83Hfc4r3fb61689a1fb1c84.jpg5F25He5Me3L43F23J3c4r144f5c6ed1861b66.jpg

ok here are the pics i have of the boat, right now there is nothing in the hull at all, stripped right down....
i checked inside today, and theres still water in the boat so the leaks are very slow, im just worried about the leak comming from the middle rib under the boat since i cant see where it originates from...any advise?
 

jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: tin boat project

Well, you aren't going to go anywhere sitting at the steering wheel without a throttle/shifter, and there are different types of steering systems.

Converting a tiller motor to a remote steer can be done, but it wouldn't be worth it with that boat and motor... and a tiller motor by itself with that boat would be pretty much worthless, if it is a tiller motor. If it's not a tiller motor it will probably be difficult to find controls for it.

My suggestion to you would be to clean that boat up good and sell it and buy a tiller tin and motor. They're cheaper to operate and work on.

If that boat had a motor and controls you could probably work with it, but without them it will more than likely be more than you can afford to put together.
 

corzy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 9, 2008
Messages
152
Re: tin boat project

no i'm sure i will eventually find a motor for it, ive got the floor/transom already cut out, got some 4200 caulk for the transom bolt holes from the local boat store, so i think ill stick to this boat...they didn't have any Gluvit or anything like it so ill order that from here and hopefully will stop the 2 slow leaks before paint and floor install....
so the steering controls that i have on the boat wont be compatable with any motor then? ok, it just looked to me that since theres a pin on the end of the cable it looked like it would just connect to an eyelet on the front of a motor and swing it back and fourth (ive never hooked one up before so dont know) just thought i would have to buy throttle cables and i saw a pair with the levers for it and the gears on craigslist (for a johnson) for 100 bucks...figured getting one for a merc would be about the same, but if you say to convert the tiller is too much, then ill start to look for a bigger motor
thanks
 

corzy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 9, 2008
Messages
152
Re: tin boat project

ok so just ordered the gluvit (30 bucks cheaper to ship to states...)
so i take it when i get the stuff, i wire brush all the areas and just paint on the mixed goo??? is it the more the merry, or not to over use it? also can you use it under the boat too, or just from the inside? i also read that its the last thing to do before putting the floor down, does that mean you want to paint the inside with tremclad (or whatever metal paint) and then apply the gluvit over top? doesnt make sence to me to do it that way, but ive never used it ;)
also has anyone ever used this stuff to seal a transom? or would you need way too much to cover the entire thing?
thanks
 

jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: tin boat project

The Gluvit comes with instructions, read and follow them to the "T". If you paint, paint over the Gluvit. If you apply Gluvit to the outside of your boat, paint over it to protect it from the sun (UV breakdown). You can seal a transom with Gluvit, but again... paint over it if it's exposed to the sun.

Your steering system will be compatible with some motors, what type of system is it? Cable and ram, cable and pulleys... we could use a picture of it.
 

kfa4303

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Sep 17, 2010
Messages
6,094
Re: tin boat project

HI corzy. Yes, you want to get the inner hull nice and clean, especially around the seams. Wire brushing them is best. After you wash the boat, let it dry completely, then apply the Gluvit to the interior seams of the boat only. It goes on like paint/honey, but dries tough, but felxable and should fill all the nooks and crannies in the seams to stop any leaks you may have. Once it cures it needs UV protection in the form of either paint or a floor. If you are going to install a floor, you don't really need to paint over the Gluvit as the floors will block the light. Also, be sure you as much closed cell foam flotation in the form of either pink/blue closed cell insulation boards from Lowes/HD and/or closed cell poll noodles from the dollar store. You then install deck on top of the foam and either screw it to aluminum bracing using stainless steel sheet metal screws and/or aluminum pop rivets. To answer your other question, yes you can also use the Gluvit to coat the non-pressure treated, exterior grade plywood you use on your decks and transom, but it may take quite a bit and get pricey. If you do use it, you'll need to paint over it for UV protection. You may also want to use fiberglass mat and resin, several coats of Spar Urethane and/or tough exterior paint like Rustoleum oil base enamel, or porch paint. Good luck.
 

corzy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 9, 2008
Messages
152
Re: tin boat project

ok great advise, thanks guys....
as for the steering, its a cable and ram system, so next time i have the chance ill try and get a pic of it on here...perhaps once the hulls done.
thanks again
 

corzy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
152
Re: tin boat project

just a question about using the 4200 caulk when rivoting/bolting the transom in place, is there a correct way, or just fire some on the bolt/rivot, or should you fill the hole first?
 

TruckDrivingFool

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,818
Re: tin boat project

Good looking tinny you got there I've been lusting over a Alumacraft just like it on CL but really don't need another boat right now.:D

For screw holes I just gave the hole a squirt, ran the screw in and wiped the extra away. For larger holes squirt some in the hole and use something to spread it around so you know you have full coverage. I have yet to do any rivets so I can't answer on that.
 

kfa4303

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Re: tin boat project

+1. The 5200 is pretty gloopy stuff, so don't be surprised if it runs a little. Just wipe up the excess with a bit of acetone or mineral spirits. It also takes several days to fully cure.
 

corzy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
152
Re: tin boat project

ok great, thanks for the replys, ive got the 4200 stuff, not 5200, the lady said to have all my stuff ready since it sets up in 1 hr, but fully cured in 24 to paint over, but ill certainly leave it for longer than that....
when you say big holes, how big are you talking? because i have 2 holes in the transom 2/3rds the way up that are half inch in diamater, they had tubes in them, not sure what for but i figured i'd fill them in or plug them up somehow...any suggestions?
ill try and get some more pics up...she looks a lot nicer after a cleaning and no more Sh*t in the hull
 

TruckDrivingFool

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,818
Re: tin boat project

The larger holes I was thinking would be anything bigger than a drywall/machine screw but that would be in the case of mounting through wood in a transom.

The others you mention sound like drain holes, which I'll guess at being in the transom above the splashwell and you don't those filled. Rather you'll want to replace the drain tubes with something like one of these.

But then again maybe I should rewind and quit guessing and ask for some pics of what your working with.:D
 

corzy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
Messages
152
Re: tin boat project

ya thats exactly what was in those holes before, thanks....but now why would you want drain holes that far up? if the boat was that full i think she would be either on the bottom, or pretty much ruined anyways....
 

kfa4303

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Re: tin boat project

Hello again corzy. Your boat may have been built with what's called a splash well. It's sort of like a narrow, aluminum shelf that goes across the back of the boat and is designed to catch any water that may come over the stern, such as when you come to an abrupt stop from high speeds. The splash well would then divert water out to the drain holes. However, if your boat never had a splash well it's probably a modification a previous owner made. Either way you can fill a 1/2" hole with the JB marine epoxy putty. There are other brands too, but they all have the consistency of Play-doh that you knead to activate then fill in the holes. After it cures in 24 hrs, or so it can be sanded primed, painted, or machined. Once stick will be more than enough to do your whole boat. There is also a 2 part tube version of JB, but it's more runny and may not work as well on the larger holes. I would try to start fresh and fill any holes you know are not needed for the transom mounting hardware. You should be able to find JB at any hardware store Lowes/HD, marine store, etc.... Here are some pics.

JBWeldWaterweld.jpg
 
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