Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

Grub54891

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

Also,if you pulled the gimble bearing,replace it.
It takes a beating on the inner race that way. That's the only way to get 'em out and the best is to replace them.
Grub
 

cecho

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

I finally pulled the drive apart. The impeller and housing look "recently installed brand new."No cracks or dry-rot and it's still flexible. I'm guessing it was replaced when it was winterized. The only thing that looked old was the large rubber ring that sits on the shaft above the pump housing. Are there any seals I need to replace now that the drive is apart? I'm planning on using this impeller and housing since I think the drive is on its last leg... unless it's really unrecommended to. I'm not afraid of frying the engine. I watch the gauges like a hawk.

Do you think it's worth at least "popping the top" off the upper unit and replacing the top gasket to look at the innards? I'm not sure if I'd even see anything. I seem to remember the inside of an OMC stringer was not that much more visible after opening it up... I assume the mercruiser is the same.

And... I'm afraid to ask this question... but should I go with synthetic or non-synthetic gear lube? I think this is a special enough case where it's worth asking. :D I think possible metal in the oil may change the outcome of the answer.

The basic goal here is I don't want to waste money on a drive that's about dead. I'll wait to waste money on the new drive. ;)


Also, can I just cut the old bellows off or might there be some unknown reason why that might be a bad idea? I have all the replacement parts ready to install.
 

Augie56

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

Taking the top off the upper unit requires removing four bolts and gives you a good look at the bearing and the upper gear teeth. Might be nice to see if any of the metals shavings came from that location. The thin o-ring can be re-used if it's still pliable and not nicked up. Grease it just a little to get it to stick to the cap when re-installing.

It's been my experience that synth oil is really best for extreme, extreme use OR when you plan on neglecting the routine changing of the oil. Engines and outdrives were designed to run for a long time and stay within tolerance with routine, proper maintenance using dino-based oils. I do the maintenance at the proper intervals and have no worries. Just my $0.02.
 

cecho

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

Well, everything *looks* ok. Any idea how much play there should be in the gears?

IMG_20130311_185651.jpg

I'm wondering if maybe the synthetic oil would help prevent a seizure from a bad drive.


This tooth looks different:
gear.jpg
 

wrench 3

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

A friction modifier like Molley Slip "G" may extend the life a little bit, maybe!
 

dubs283

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

Any idea how much play there should be in the gears

there is a spec for backlash, you need the shimming tools to check gear height, which should be .025" - most folks who work on drives can feel the lash by just rocking the driveshaft back and forth on an assembled drive

I'm wondering if maybe the synthetic oil would help prevent a seizure from a bad drive]

quicksilver high performance gear lube is full synthetic and is recommended in all mercruiser drives
 

cecho

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

I had this happen a couple years ago, next what happen was the upper seal went out in the outdrive because the seal surface rusted.
Then I started getting outdrive grease in the bellows.
Don't forget there is a seal on the shift shaft, there is an upgraded seal if yours still has the old style.


How can I tell which one I have? The shift shaft does have play in it.
 

wrench 3

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

The upgraded seal replaces the old style seal. There is a kit with both shift shaft bushings and the new style seal. Sierra #18-2620.
 

cecho

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

That kit has

(1) 18-7175 O-Ring - replaces O.E. # 25-62817
(1) 18-2847 Drive shaft housing to bell housing gasket - replaces O.E. # 27-54014

which my transom seal kit already came with. I'm looking for the kist that might have those right now.
 

wrench 3

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

Sorry! I misplaced a number, Got to proof read better. It should be 18-2622.
 

cecho

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

Thanks! I've got that ordered and on the way. I think I'm going to go ahead and get the synthetic oil for the outdrive, but I think I'm also going to get some dirt cheap conventional gear oil (Rotella or something) and run that first. I'll replace it after an hour or two of running a few times before moving to the synthetic.

I'll also get a magnetic oil plug.
 

cecho

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

I finished greasing the u-joints. There's grease absolutely everywhere now. Should I attempt to clean it up at all or does it not matter if there's loose grease inside the double cardan Joint?
 

Bondo

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

I finished greasing the u-joints. There's grease absolutely everywhere now. Should I attempt to clean it up at all or does it not matter if there's loose grease inside the double cardan Joint?

Ayuh,.... As soon as ya Spin it once, that purged grease will be in the bellows,.... No problem...
 

cecho

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

I finished flushing the rest of the bad crap out of there. The top end feels very smooth (It just turns, I cannot feel the gears) and has very little play. The bottom end does not feel as smooth (I can feel the gears though it spins feel) and has more play. What does a new top and low end feel like? Should the bottom end feel silky smooth when turned by hand?

How in the world does this type of damage occur? I'm beginning to think this thing won't last an hour...

View beneath impeller housing:
IMG_20130314_112837.jpg

I'm thinking it might be time just to bite the bullet and get a new outdrive... or is the general consensus I still should just use it 'till it stops? I'd really like to hold off on another large purchase until May if I can. I won't be doing anything but fishing until june.
 

cecho

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

On the plus side I found two new water pump kits and a new prop under a previously unexplored seat. :D I also lucked out on the batteries. They both are holding a charge after several weeks and passed an Autozone battery test. Looks like the alternator is bad though. Fortunately, those are cheaper than batteries.

I guess if I have to I could always idle everywhere. I doubt even a severely damaged drive (assuming the gears still were there) would go out under those conditions. :/
 

Augie56

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

Re-water pump it, seal it up, pressure test it, then fill it, install it and use it 'till it pukes. Who knows....it may last more seasons that you have the boat. As long as the gear lube stays in it, and water stays out of it, and it shifts ok, then you'll be good to go.
 

cecho

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

Re-water pump it, seal it up, pressure test it, then fill it, install it and use it 'till it pukes. Who knows....it may last more seasons that you have the boat. As long as the gear lube stays in it, and water stays out of it, and it shifts ok, then you'll be good to go.

Thanks, will do. Seeing that bent bearing cage got me down a bit. I guess worst case is I'll have to call the boat officer at 2 AM for a tow one night. lol

Another bit of bright news. I found a depth finder while looking through the boats wiring. The PO told me he thought the PO before him took it with him. I guess he didn't. :lol: This boat is chock full of surprises.
 

cecho

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

It looks like the yoke seal in the top end is bad. Is this worth replacing?
 

cecho

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Re: Took MC-1 drive off boat, Water in bellows?

It looks like I'll be looking at $15 for the seal kit. $75 for the wrench to get to the seal and another $200 or so for a used u-joint assembly.

Almost $300 to put a doomed outdrive into the water doesn't sound like a very good idea. Is it possible to replace the seal without the wrench? If the u-joint is grooved like I think it may be any idea if the seal will hold at all? $15 for a dozen more hours on a doomed drive makes sense. $300 does not. If I have to spend more than a couple hundred dollars I'm just going to go with the SE106.

Ran the engine up to temp with the water connected today for about 30 mins. It sounded great and ran well. At least the engine's A-OK. :)
 
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