Trailer bunk improvements

[Jerry_NJ]

I have a light 16' aluminum boat which I have been loading and unloading for years using the carpeted bunk boards and keel rollers.

I am thinking about installing either the wheel type bunk attachments (usually 4 or 5 sets of rollers on each side), or on just installing the slippery plastic on-lays - 4 or 5 each side . The latter is much cheaper and easier to install... I'd guess these are the way to go and would make pulling my boat on/off the trailer when the water is low, not enough to float the boat off/on, much easier than the current carpet boards provides.

Any experience with either or both "improvement" to the carpeted bunk boards?

Thanks

 

[1fishbone]

Re: Trailer bunk improvements

I would use the bunk slides.
They sell some here or you can buy the material and add them to your bunks.

Rollers get expensive!

 

[JimS123]

Re: Trailer bunk improvements

Bunk slides are not recommended for riveted aluminum hulls.

Go with the roller bunks. I did and they work like a dream.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Re: Trailer bunk improvements

Thanks, I have a riveted hull boat, Grumman V-hull built like a Bass Boat inside, no center seat and built in live well and carpeted plywood flooring/decking. So, it is a bit heavy for its size.

I see a set of galvanized rollers on Amazon for $108.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Re: Trailer bunk improvements

Back again. Taking a look at the hull on my boat I see (as I had recalled) there keel is riveted about every inch to the two sides of the bottom. These two sides extend up over the edge of the sides of the boat where there is again a rivet line joining the sides to the bottom. None of the rivets line up with the bunk boards, so is slippery slides were installed on the bunk boards they would not be in contact with rivets...so I assume this boat could be handled on sliders.

Looking at the rollers I see there are mounting brackets needed which add about 40% more to the cost. Strange that the mounting hardware is "optional" when ordering, not part of the rails package.

 

[JimS123]

Re: Trailer bunk improvements

Back again. Taking a look at the hull on my boat I see (as I had recalled) there keel is riveted about every inch to the two sides of the bottom. These two sides extend up over the edge of the sides of the boat where there is again a rivet line joining the sides to the bottom. None of the rivets line up with the bunk boards, so is slippery slides were installed on the bunk boards they would not be in contact with rivets...so I assume this boat could be handled on sliders.

Looking at the rollers I see there are mounting brackets needed which add about 40% more to the cost. Strange that the mounting hardware is "optional" when ordering, not part of the rails package.

I have glide slicks on 3 of my fiberglass boats' trailers and they work like a charm. When I wanted to improve the handling of the trailer under my aluminum boat I reasoned the same thing (no rivets in the way) so I took a chance and ordered another set of slicks regardless of what the manufacturer claimed. They didn't work very well on my unpainted aluminum hull, so I tossed them and bought a set of roller bunks.

The mounting brackets should not be needed if you are replacing old carpeted bunks. The ones on the old bunks lined up perfectly.

 

[Av8nBill]

Re: Trailer bunk improvements

I put a set of slicks under my 14' aluminum jon boat and made sure they don't line up with the rivets. I couldn't be happier with the results, it comes off with no hassle and no need to even think about power loading it back on. My wife has no trouble at all winching it back up the last little bit.

I got my slicks from http://www.surfixinc.com/surfix_trailer_bunkslides.html, but I'm sure any of them would work about as well.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Re: Trailer bunk improvements

Good inputs, thanks. I note the rollers in Amazon don't even mention mounting brackets... and I assumed they roller frame just screws down to the wooden bunk boards. Then I looked up rollers in Cabelas and it shows on a second line, brackets for $9.99 each (approximate on price) and two need per side. That's a big hit on the overall cost given the 5' long roller sets sell for $108.

My boat is a good bit heavier than a 14' jon boat, but until I go into my "senior" citizen years I had no problem pushing the boat off of the bunks when the water was too low to float the boat (i.e., I wasn't willing to back any further into the lake). There is water around the bunks, but I have to push the full weight and it is a struggle. I can do, but why struggle if I don't have to. The slicks would be the easiest and cheapest solution if they work.

Jim, can you give me any specifics on mounting the rollers on the bunk boards? Just attach them through holes in the frame with steel or even stainless steel screws.

 

[JimS123]

Re: Trailer bunk improvements

Good inputs, thanks. I note the rollers in Amazon don't even mention mounting brackets... and I assumed they roller frame just screws down to the wooden bunk boards. Then I looked up rollers in Cabelas and it shows on a second line, brackets for $9.99 each (approximate on price) and two need per side. That's a big hit on the overall cost given the 5' long roller sets sell for $108.

My boat is a good bit heavier than a 14' jon boat, but until I go into my "senior" citizen years I had no problem pushing the boat off of the bunks when the water was too low to float the boat (i.e., I wasn't willing to back any further into the lake). There is water around the bunks, but I have to push the full weight and it is a struggle. I can do, but why struggle if I don't have to. The slicks would be the easiest and cheapest solution if they work.

Jim, can you give me any specifics on mounting the rollers on the bunk boards? Just attach them through holes in the frame with steel or even stainless steel screws.

Never use screws, always bolts. Probably carriage bolts. Cadmium plated should be OK in fresh water - SS if in salt water.

Don't mount them to the bunks. Remove the bunks, take off the hardware and transfer it to the roller bunks. The bracket that is screwed into the bottom of the wood should bolt right on to the new roller bunk frame.

Not the best picture...but the best I have. Hope you get the idea.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Re: Trailer bunk improvements

Thanks, I see from the picture the roller frames are mounted without any bunk boards. I then assume you are saying I should be able to reuse the brackets now attached to my bunk boards to attach to the roller frames.

The rollers I have looked at on the web look similar, rollers are 3 per position. The set I'm considering has only 5 sets per side, not 6 as yours has. I think my similar boat at 16' is smaller than yours pictured and the 5 roller per side should be fine. The other "take away" I get from the picture is the center/keel rollers hold the weight and the side rollers are more to position the hull than they are to hold the hull. This idea makes me wonder why the bunk board arrangement has the drag I'm trying to reduce. Perhaps I have my bunk boards set too high. I'd guess that with the boat on the trailer one adjusts the bunk board (or rollers) so that they just press up against the sides of the hull which, is resting on its keel. That said it appears I may be able to replace the bunk boards with the rollers while the boat is setting on the trailer - thus I don't have to first put the boat on the water before I can work on the trailer.

 

[JimS123]

Re: Trailer bunk improvements

I replaced mine with the boat still on the trailer. Most of the weight should be on the keel rollers anyway. When you mount the roller bunks, put a scissors jack under the brackets to push them tight into place.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Re: Trailer bunk improvements

Thanks,