trailer max capacity being under used, question

[bob johnson]

Why don't you weigh what you have?

You can get 15" tires rated up to 2800# in a load range E if you want. If you have a trailer tire and it is rated at #1750, you are at the low end range for 15" tires.

There is no way I would put your boat on a trailer rated for 6800#. It will take a beating.

about 4 years ago I weighed the boat -trailer combo...2900 lbs...but I THINK I maybe holding water in the flotation foam..who knows how much that is...

I have a deposit for the trailer.... I am second guessing my choice, now.... might just buy it and flip it..its a good deal..

its a Karavan STL 6800-TDB-78-LFB. and it is only costing me $1400. seems like a good deal...

bob

 

[smokeonthewater]

at that price it better be close to new to be worth flipping

trailer blowouts DON'T cause loss of control unless you are cornering so hard and fast that your drink tips in your cupholder..... this need for tandem is imagined I have a 20' glass boat with 115 hp outboard on a single axle and it's just fine...

As stated above weigh it (again) get the total weight and the axle weight.... look into new BETTER tires...

I have had blowouts on all sorts of trailers and generally the only way I can even tell they blew out is by seeing the rubber flying in the mirror.

 

[bob johnson]

I don't know where you buy trailers, but that trailer is over $4K new these days!!... I looked up where I bought my tires last time...it seems id have to go with new Hubs that have 6 lugs instead of 5 to get 2,540 LB rated tires(only a D rating) the tires I did buy are in fact 1,870 each load range C ST205-75D-15.

I did see 2,050 LB rated tires with 5 lugs...that could be a choice...since I have three trailers with the same size tires...I wouldn't want to go with the 6 lug hubs....

I was just thinking id like to have a safety margin for load... because sometimes I fill the boat up with gear and trailer it...

I don't know why a dual axle trailer is viewed as sooo much more work and maintenance than a single axle...its just the extra set of tire and grease maintenance..

oh well...thanks for all the replies guys!!

bob

 

[bruceb58]

You can put tires that are rated over 2050# on a wheel rated for 2050#. It just increases your safety margin. Doesn't mean you have to load up your trailer to that amount. Right now, I have load range E tires on my 5 lug rims because when I ordered my tires, that was the only size I could get easily. Also, the rating for the tire is at full inflation PSI. I run my load range E at lower inflation since I don't run up to it's rated load.

You will get people on here that say trailer tires have to be inflated to the max PSI always. Only true if you are running with max load.

 

[smokeonthewater]

I KNOW the trailer is over 4k new... I said it would need to be CLOSE to new to be worth flipping.... didn't say it had to BE new or that it wasn't a good deal.... If it's 3 years old in great shape it would likely bring $2500... if it's 10 years old and a little rusty, good luck making any money on it.


Yep tires don't HAVE lugs.... The info on trailer tires is SOOOO varied and constantly argued..... trailer tires are RATED for max load and a specific psi.... Many of the manufacturesr specify to run them at RATED (not max) psi... SOME manufacturers publish tables such as what bruce posted for weight vs pressure.

There is a degree of judgement call involved.... I ALWAYS run my trailer tires at rated pressure on the sidewall...

There IS a risk to putting higher rated tires on a rim in that to get the higher rating you must run higher pressure.. OFTEN the rim will only be rated for the pressure of the lower rated tire.

ALSO consider the weight rating of the rim which is based on the lug pattern... in order to increase weight capacity of the rim a larger bolt circle and or more lugs is needed.

IF you truly are over the weight rating of your tires you are also likely over the capacity of your wheels, hubs, axle, and springs.... MAYBE even the frame.... Again you need accurate weights....

You MAY be able to ease the load on the axle a bit by increasing tongue weight.

I don't think anyone here is saying that a tandem is a huge pain or major maintenance..... we are saying that unless you have a REAL issue with overloading (and you MAY) then there are no positives from switching to a tandem but there ARE negatives.... twice as many tires to buy or have blow out... twice as many bearings to service or have fail... just overall more trouble without any gain.

IF your axle weight is or even sometimes is slightly over 3500 lbs then tandem 2000 lb axles would be FAR better than either the 7k trailer OR simply upping the tire rating.

 

[redneck joe]

why worry about new hubs just get the tire. Go E rated. You won't be disappointed I was not.

http://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Wh...a/AM10303.html


Kenda Tires and Wheels - AM10303 Feature-rich, radial, special trailer tire provides excellent traction for a safe, smooth ride in both wet and dry conditions. Fits 15" wheels and has a maximum load capacity of 2,830 lbs at 80 psi. Features: Special trailer tire design provides the strength of a bias tire, as well as the durability and stability of a radial tire Created specifically for trailers and not intended for use on other vehicles Double steel belts and full nylon plies combine for superior function and long tire life Computer-generated tread design and premium rubber-compound materials Maximum traction in wet or dry conditions Smooth ride and excellent stability at highway speeds ST tire meets Department of Transportation specifications Specs: Fits: 15" x 6", 15" x 6-1/2", 15" x 7" wheels Tire size: ST225/75R15 Section width: 8.9" Outer diameter (when inflated): 28.4" Capacity: Load range: E Ply rating: 10 Maximum load: 2,830 lbs at 80 psi Limited 2-year warranty 10303 Kenda Karrier KR03 Radial Tire - LR E

 

[bob johnson]

thanks, I am learning a little... we can always absorb more info...no matter how long we have been at it. Lots of good points.. I would have thought the 3500 lb axle and springs and 1800 lb rated tire would have been enough...even with the heavy framed trailer I have. the axle and hubs are only about 3 years old... there are other things in the mix that I am considering when moving to a different trailer. One is brakes, the other is low stance.... to get loaded on those shallow water ramps, and some ramps that are damaged and there is a sharp drop off into mud from the paved surface on tidal waters. thus some places I cant back past the drop off, and the water isn't high enough to load the boat...one reason is the HEIGHT of the trailer.... springs over top of axles, and bunks 6" above the frame.

this caravan has torsion springs, so it holds a boat much closer to the ground....so the brakes, the low ride of the boat, AND the dual axles were what has me interested in this trailer.

PLUS the fact, I have been in my current fixer upper home one year, and have two large projects coming this summer...in addition to some boat projects....so just BUYING a solution instead or added an axle or working on the trailer...is a plus for me this summer. one project I have is to pull the floor and find out if my flotation is holding water....if so....I can gain back a lot of ground right there.....

I have a 22 ft starcraft project that will be sporting a 200 hp Johnson...so I have a few bigger boat trailer needs....getting the caravan opens up more options for me...with out the labor time spent on them

bob

 

[redneck joe]

you can flip the springs/axle to under. I did when I rehabbed mine.

 

[smokeonthewater]

sooo maybe we are headed back to removing an axle..... you can always put it back on if you want to but a bigger boat on the trailer

 

[bassman284]

for some reason I am thinking now my boat weighs more than I had thought... it was a roughly 1250 lb hull, then a 350 lb motor, two big batteries, two 9 gallons gas tanks, a hydraulic jack plate, two gun boxes, three anchors....some tools... I figured 2000 lbs about. the tires are actually rated to 1750, I made a mistake on the previous #...so two should theoretically match my 3500 lb axle. the trailer weighs 900 lbs alone...so I am running at about 3000 lbs. now I suspect, the foam under the floor might have absorbed water ... the boat has filled with water to the floor several times over its life...

the tires look like they need air, but the pressure is at 55lbs!!! they are 15" rims maybe 225's the treads wear shows under inflation....the outsides wear more than the middle.... so I am thinking... I need to move up in trailer capacity, as well as get some brakes... I have never seen a tire rated for more than 1750 lbs...at least I didn't see one listed where I bought trailer parts. I also have planned to tear the boat down and check the flotation. Plus I like the security of four tires...I get a blowout, and I have less chance of losing control...because the trailer will still roll straight. my boat is aluminum, so I was concerned the boat may take a beating with the stronger springs..just thought id get some more opinions.

bob

Radial tires ALWAYS look like they need air. If you ever pump a radial up enough so it doesn't look like it needs air, don't be standing close to it.

 

[bob johnson]

yeah my tires are bias ply.... 6ply....

 

[WIMUSKY]

It sounds like you really want a tandem axle trailer. That 6K rated one is way too much, IMO. I had a '79 Crestliner 'glass, 24' w/cuddy, 350 and a 75-100 gal tank on a 5500# tandem which was perfect. I'm not sure what the lowest rated tandem would be for the length of your boat. Whatever it is, I'm sure would be plenty for your needs. I still would consider higher load rated tires on your current trailer..... I can't remember ever having a flat while trailering, but you know how that goes......

 

[bobsquatch]

Better tires and wheels seems more efficient but what do I know? I pull a 2,000lb boat with an f550 diesel! Wimusky, you might have seen me but my boat is only 15':tongue1:

 

[bob johnson]

update... I took the day off work yesterday and ran the trailer and boat over to the gravel bank near my house to get weighed. this boat is supposed to be weighing about 1300 lbs max, then a 325lb motor and 18 gallons of gas and 100 lbs of jack plate...should put this rig at no more than1900 lbs or so... the whole rig weighed in at 3,300lbs!!, I ran home and took the boat off the trailer in my yard... and then went back and got just the trailer weighed.... it weighs 800 lbs.

so, my boat rigged is coming in at 2500 lbs!!!! man what a pig!!...good thing I have a 115 on it! no wonder the tires were bowing with 52 lbs of air!!

bob

 

[redneck joe]

so whats the plan?

 

[bob johnson]

total refurb.... I had kinda planned on doing it anyway...plus I wanted to remove the CC, and add a small side console further up front...

the worst part is all the wiring is set at the CC length...ill need to rewire the whole boat, because the fuse panel moves with the console change...

rip up the flloors and replace all the foam... luckily its all rivets.

bob

 

[bigdee]

update... I took the day off work yesterday and ran the trailer and boat over to the gravel bank near my house to get weighed. this boat is supposed to be weighing about 1300 lbs max, then a 325lb motor and 18 gallons of gas and 100 lbs of jack plate...should put this rig at no more than1900 lbs or so... the whole rig weighed in at 3,300lbs!!, I ran home and took the boat off the trailer in my yard... and then went back and got just the trailer weighed.... it weighs 800 lbs.

so, my boat rigged is coming in at 2500 lbs!!!! man what a pig!!...good thing I have a 115 on it! no wonder the tires were bowing with 52 lbs of air!!

bob

I like the innovative way you got the boat off the trailer. Impressed with the strength of those saw horses too!