Re: Transom, floor, etc. adds up to a lot of work **NEW PICS**
Okay everyone, here is the new round of pics I promised. Before you ask, yes, it is taking me forever...I am taking it nice and slow, and doing LOTS of research along the way. I want to do this once and only once.<br /><br />Here is the link to the whole album of pictures.
More Joe's Glastron T-186 album <br /><br /><br />And here are the individual pics with commentary:<br /><br />This is the inside surface of the outer transom fiberglass. The cracks are barely deep enough to get a fingernail in for the most part. It seem like the old transom was slathered with peanut butter epoxy and then dropped in. I am not sure if I need to try to get that layer off or not. Opinions? Also, the outer skin has in inward curve that I am pretty sure isn't supposed to be there.
cracks on inside of transom skin <br /><br />This was the first step of removing the floor. I was fairly certain that I wouldn't cut through anything important here, and it let me be able to see more of what was under the floor. I cut carefully with a Dremel tool just deep enough to go through the glass.
cutting splashwell floor <br /><br />Then, I cut around the bilge pump pit far enough down to be below the plywood.
cutting around bilge sump <br /><br />The plywood was only held down by a few very rusted staples, and came right off. At least the foam was dry.
first section of floor out <br /><br />The driver side stringer is slightly rotten in the end, but most of it seems solid.
rotten stringer <br /><br />The cross support is almost completely rotten.
rotten support <br /><br />This is after I have the first eight feet of floor removed. The floor rests only on the stringers and the upcurved section of the hull. In front of the chines the outside six inches or so of floor was only supported by a layer of fiberglass cloth connecting it to the hull.
Eight feet removed <br /><br />This support board was not doing any good at all.
rotten <br /><br />Left Stringer looks good...but if you squeeze it, then it will flex in some spots...almost like there was nothing inside. I know that most of the strength is in the glass, not the board...but it will have to be replaced.
hollow stringer <br /><br />This is a picture of the busted old glove box. Believe it or not, it was originally that glaring orange color. In any case, I am going to mount just the door over the hole and build a new bottom for four times as much storage.
glove box <br /><br />This is hopefully the last of the previous occupants. Note that it is almost as big as the matchbox beside it.
spider <br /><br />This is the old dash. Duct tape anyone?
old dash <br /><br />This is the dash with the steering wheel removed. I probably won't keep any of this.
steering wheel removed <br /><br />And this is the dash with all the crappy plastic removed. I think it is going to look much better as gelcoat with a new fabricated gage panel.
Dash sans plastic <br /><br />This is a closeup of the old BIA plate. I would like to get a new one made...but that is a different thread.
BIA plate <br /><br />Well, that is enough for now. Tune in next week for the stringer replacement and who knows what else. I am leaning towards either Dricon treated or Wolmanized plywood (both kiln dried) for the floor and Seacast for the transom. I still haven't decided whether I am going to use poly or epoxy resin. Any opinions are welcome.<br /><br />Another $0.02 worth,<br />Joe
...but I have always been a firm believer that horsepower and alcohol don't mix.<br /><br />However, if you look close at the pics on the Classic Glastron site, you will see that originally there was a built in ice chest just in front of the splash well. The teak board that held it in place is still there, as well as a vinyl cover with snaps. When I get the ten million other things done, I will probably see if I can find a cooler that will make a good fit...for water and soft drinks, of course...I gotta set a good example for my son. 