transom repair

[sea wolf]

last fall when i put my boat up for the season i noticed that the screws that hold the the tilt motor were loose. it mounts to the transom of course. on closer inspection i found the the wood inside the screw holes was wet & soft. i don't know how bad it is but i fear the worst. the boat is a 1987, 19 ftr. can i remove the inside skin to see how far the damage is without disturbing the outer skin? should i remove the drive? what type of saw should i use, as i don't want to do damage to the outer skin. my plan is to remove the inner skin & rotted plywood, replace with marine ply & epoxy over it, while leaving the outer skin intact. is this possible? if this is a dumb idea, let me have it. i do not want to replace the whole transom. i've done glass work before & i think i know what i'm in for, but i want to do it correctly, & only ONCE. any advice is appreciated.

 

[JasonJ]

Re: transom repair

Don't mess with the outer skin, the end result is horrid looking and potentially dangerous. The best way, but also a difficult way, is to seperate the upper portion of the boat from the hull. They are joined behind the rubrail. Once it is off, you have total access to the transom. You would need to cut a few feet of the floor out, and you may discover that the stringers are also wet. You do not need marine ply, all it does is cost more money. You can laminate two layers of ACX ply with a layer or two of fiberglass in between, and glass the whole mess in. Others will have suggestions as well, such as Seacast. Good luck....

 

[letsbarbq]

Re: transom repair

Do a search on this website for Sea cast. They also have a website www.transomrepair.com<br /><br />my sea cast came in today. I will attempt to repair my transom next week. I'll let you know if it works.

 

[sea wolf]

Re: transom repair

jason thanx for the reply. i've heard about other folks sepreating the hull, but that is something i'd rather not attempt. are u saying that the outer skin can buckle if i remove the plywood from the inside? the stringers/floor are solid. i did that project a couple yrs. ago. the boat has an i/o. looks like i'm in for a hell of a project.

 

[crab bait]

Re: transom repair

i bet you don't have to replace the entire transom.. it just rotted where the unprotected screw holes were..<br /><br />i'd take a circular saw ,, set the depth a 1/16 less an saw a foot sqaure patch out around the rot holes.. then cut many times inside the 'square'.. take a chisle or screw driver,, an pry out the chunks..<br /><br />if you still find rot ,, cut out more..<br /><br />then replace with 'good' ply.. i wouldn't build a doghouse outta acx.. to many voids & BIG voids.. voids ,,with the air/water temp differential ,voids can & will collect condensation an rot from the inside out..<br /><br />after everthin'done,, bore your holes,, then go to a good true valve/ace type hardware store or hobby store.. get some very thin walled brass 'K & S' tubing bigger than your bolt dia... rebore the transom holes to the tubing size.. cut tubing to transom thickness shy a few mm...epoxy in the tubes ...now fill tubes with silicone install bolts ...

 

[Franki]

Re: transom repair

If the transom rot is not too bad, there is also CPES.... (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Something... <br /><br />I am ordering some of that for myself...<br /><br />Not only is it so thin that it soaks right into wood, (particularly damaged wood) it dries rock hard, and has anti rot and anti fungal properties.)<br /><br />There is a ton of info about it on the net.. apparently its been around for 30 years.. I think the url is rotdoctor.com<br /><br />regards<br /><br />Franki

 

[Bondo]

Re: transom repair

Seawolf,<br />Your Plan is a Very Good One..<br />It's Not Really as Bad as you think...!!<br />Pull the engine,+ outdrive, this will give you the access you'll need(NO seperating the hull).....<br />Then Grind, Saw, Pick, Whatever it takes to get All the old transom out.....<br />Go back in with Whatever plywood(cut,+ fit with several smaller pieces) you chose, along with Plenty of Epoxy, puddy,+ paste,+ glass,+ etc....<br />THEN, use the outer skin(No it won't deflect, unless you "push"it too hard) to redrill,+ cutout the holes needed to reinstall the engine/ outdrive.... <br />It'll be Much Better than OEM....

 

[sea wolf]

Re: transom repair

thanx bondo. i think i'll go with the plan. but, we'll see as i don't know how bad it is yet. i see you're from the 1,000 islands. well, i'm about 100 mi. south of there in c.n.y. i don't think i'll be doing any boat work soon. the forecast is for -15 deg. f for tonite! u familiar with clayton?

 

[Bondo]

Re: transom repair

Ya, Well, If you'd filled in your profile/ signature, I'd know where you are..... <br />Clayton, I know Very Well.... I launch at Sackets Harbor, Cape Vincent, or Clayton, Where ever the "Bite" is on.... <br />In Clayton, I use the town dock... When the Museum is having a show, I head to the Lake....<br />I live on the Watertown/Clayton road.....I bet you drive right by here...<br /><br />AS for the boat, Get a Good 4.5" grinder,+ Have a Ball !!! The outer hull Should be Atleast a 1/4" thick.... Leave It Alone.... Go from the Inside....

 

[wezie]

Re: transom repair

Maybe?<br />Mark a 1/4 inch drill bit so you do not drill deeper than you want.<br />Drill out the mount holes.<br /> Is the wood on the bit wet?<br />If so drill outward from that location until you get dry wood, or foam. Mostly water will run down, so there might be less wet stuff above the spot than below. The pattern may look like an inverted V.<br />Tapping the hull around the wet spot may tell you what is wet if you can make out the difference in sounds.<br />The drill is a positive way.<br />It may be a minor problem according to how long the leak has been there.<br />It may be real bad.<br />Remember, nothing will stick to the inside surfaces unless they are dry. Pouring git rot or other thin epoxies into the void will only fill it, not reinforce it. A small area maybe, larger areas no.<br />Good Luck.