transom shield R&R

Tri-newb

Cadet
Joined
May 27, 2011
Messages
7
Hi all.....

I have a 1972 Ford 302 with a Volvo 270. I am doing a full resto and plan on getting a thread going soon. If someone would provide a step by step for removing and reinstalling the transom shield I would greatly appreciate it. I do not want to damage anything. Neighbor asked if I had an aligning tool for when it goes back on but I read somewhere that is not needed for my setup. Drive is off, engine still in boat. The engine will be coming out eventually as well.

Huge thanks ahead of time!! I have never learned so much as I have since joining this forum.
 

mtnrat

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 29, 2006
Messages
419
Re: transom shield R&R

You need to take the engine out. The transom shield removes from the inside. If your drive is off all you need to do is undo the six bolts that hold the clamping ring. There are tabs holding each bolt that need to be unbent for each bolt so you can get the socket on them to loosen. After that undo everything connected to the engine, (wiring harness, ground wires, fuel line, carburetor linkage line, exhaust, etc. Make sure to label everything clearly with duct tape and a permanent marking pen. Once the engine is out, take pictures of the transom so you can sea how everything is mounted there. It will help when you put it back on. Now remove the tilt motor by undoing the two allan bolts. It may need some persuasion to get out but will slide straight up. Again label any wires etc. Unbolt the steering mechanism, and then the big bolts that hold the shield to the transom. remove the exhaust Y pipe. I am going by memory so may have missed a couple of things,but it is pretty self explanatory as you go. Again take pictures, which come in handy especially if you are doing a resto and replace or paint the transom. By the age of the boat chances are it may need transom, stringer and floor replacement, unless it was stored inside it's entire life. Just my experience that with any boat of that era.
I would get a shop manual, even the cheap ones explain the removal and replacement procedure pretty well. You are correct there is no need for an alignment tool, just getting some tabs equidistant on install. Again a manual explains the procedure.
 
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