Trim Bleeding down

[SkiDad]

Hi Guys, I did look at some of the other threads about the trim pump but most were referring to how to fix.

So... about 1 month ago I noticed that it was bleeding down just on tilt - but trim was holding fine (so i thought no big deal )

Now last time I was out I noticed that the motor is trimming all the way down when i'm skiing, etc. So I'm guessing it's the same issues just manifesting on the trim now.

Is there something simple I check or adjust - i must admit, i have no clue about hydraulics.

EDIT: PS - this is for an '85 Force 125

 

[jkoppe73]

Re: Trim Bleeding down

sounds like a system rebuild is in order, but to send you in the right direction we need to know what you are working on.....

 

[SkiDad]

Re: Trim Bleeding down

sorry about that - 1985 Force 125 - everything looks original.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Trim Bleeding down

inspect the top of cylinders. the wipers need to be scraping off all of the water. even a micro-drop here and there will add up over time and rust your system from inside out. If the plastic on top of rams is keeping out water then your rams are good. if not then they need rebuilding.

drift down is almost always valve body. you have to rebuild or replace the round thing mounted to bottom of electric motor. when water gets into rams and damages cylinders they work one day and are completely blown out the next. Valve bodies usually get slowly worse and worse until you just can't stand it any longer.

85hp is small enough that cheap aftermarket might last 3-5 years. expensive USA made aftermarket or oem rebuild is 10-20 years.

 

[BobList]

Re: Trim Bleeding down

What is an acceptable rate of bleed down when tilt/trim is up? minutes, hours, never? (Not on the water, but say tipped up on the trailer).

Bob

 

[emoney]

Re: Trim Bleeding down

Never is how they're designed.

 

[SkiDad]

Re: Trim Bleeding down

earlier this week i did find a loose connection (the larger nut) --- see attached pic that I found online (not my boat) but I highlighted what I tightened --- it was not real tight so I turned it a turn or so. I didn't want to crank it too tight. I was able to get trim to maintain it's height all day - motor still bleeds down on tilt when I pull it out of the water. probably in 2 minutes.

can I tighten this nut down real tight or is it aluminum ? Maybe that is my issue. But I will also check what RRitt mentioned when I get the boat home again - parked at storage at the moment.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Trim Bleeding down

that nut does not affect bleed down. if it does not leak when you lower engine then it is fine. they are a low torque fitting. when the day comes that you rebuild rams, take the tube conpletely loose, clean with mineral spirits, and carefully recenter-retighten the collar fitting. It should be snug like a phillips screwdriver but not torqued like a wrench. use red locktite on the threads. once dry reattach tube. use two wrenchesto prevent fitting from turning.

your bleed down is from valve body. chinese are fast and cheap but not durable and about 30% have nagging small problems from start. but you can get them next day and they are cheap. my cost is just under $70. they are like a disposable razor. get a season or two and then replace it. mallory is expensive at $250ish. Not even sure they still make them. Somebody sent me an API VB112 this summer and it was the chinese. Probably a mistake by seller but still raises a red flag. The made in USA were high quality. The alleged API was not. If you shell out $250ish then you have a right to expect a higher quality product. a good rebuild puts it back to factory. If you use viton then it can be argued rebuild better than factory since Buna seals on check valves needles was a weakness. but in reality using viiton probably amount to an equal offset to having worn threads & paint.