Trim Sender Replacement

[LiquidC]

A few weeks ago, I noticed my trim up switch wasn't working. I looked around the drive and found the SB side trim wires were corroded and were hanging loose.

I ordered a new set, and will be installing tonight hopefully. I haven't replaced them before ... is there anything special to it? Just unscrew & pull out the wires? Or is there something holding the wires in & keeping water out of the boat?

I have a '97 Merc 350 with an Alpha 1 G2 outdrive.

Thanks!

 

[MarkSee]

Re: Trim Sender Replacement

Here's the installation instructions that should be with the kit.

If you go by these then you'll be moving/removing the drive and bellhousing.

Some guys have found ways that with flexible extentions and specially bent wrenches you can get to the bolt without moving/removing the bellhousing....kind of depends on what you can do.

Mark

 

[alldodge]

Re: Trim Sender Replacement

Agree MarkSee has listed the best and proper way to put the senders back to factory original condition.

An easier way and not recommened or boats that stay in the water and not even for salt water boats. I'll also say I have not done this to my boats but if looks are not prime, it's a choice. Drill a hole above the drive through the transom well above the water line. Put it about the same height you would to install an exterior device like a fish finder. You can run the wires through using good marine sealant or drill a larger hole and install a water tight clamp. Run the wires along the outside edges of the gimble ring and secure them with nylon cable clamps using stainless steel screws which are drilled and tapped into the ring (real shallow taps), and seal threads. It works I have seen it and helped others accomplish this, but as I said it's not pretty.

Edit: change to MarkSee

 

[LiquidC]

Re: Trim Sender Replacement

Ugh ... I got the kit & the same set of instructions, thanks MarkSee. What a pain. I'm tempted to just splice into the existing wires, they look OK, not cracked. I put a voltmeter across them, they're not shorted to ground or to each other (I disconnected them inside before the voltmeter). The wires broke off right at the sender.

Has anyone tried to splice in a new trim sender/switch kit? I'll solder the wires, insulate them with liquid tape, and then 2 layers of heat shrink tubing. Shouldn't that be safe enough to keep water out?

I don't have the hinge pin tool, so I think the idea from AllDodge would be the best bet. That is, if the soldering, splicing, & insulating method isn't the way to go.

 

[achris]

Re: Trim Sender Replacement

Splicing has been discussed here ad infinitum... General consensus is that splicing is a NO-GO... Couple of reasons.

1. It creates a 'hard spot' in the wire and the wire will then crack at that point (just like a weld)
2. The old wire still used will quite quickly corrode and the insulation will break off (seen it happen a lot)...

If you'd like to do the job properly, bite the bullet and do it properly.... But, in the end, it's your boat and you'll do what you want.

As Mark said, some of us have specially bent up spanners and small tools just for this job. With those, it's not so difficult, and only takes about an hour. I don't even bother to remove the drive these days.

Please don't drill extra holes in your transom :facepalm: already enough there. The 'hinge pin tool' is just a 1/2" allen key....

Chris....

 

[LiquidC]

Re: Trim Sender Replacement

Thanks achris ... in the back of my mind I'm thinking exactly what you said. If I splice I'll be doing it twice! :doh:

What about this aforementioned "bent up spanner," is this something I could rent from a tool supply? Or custom made? Any videos/photos?

Thanks
Colin

 

[achris]

Re: Trim Sender Replacement

Yeah, that's very much a custom made, as are many of my tools...