Trolling motor bracket

Flyin1500 · Jul 6, 2007

Howdy,

I'm trying to mount a trolling motor bracket and my transom is not completely flat. Where I want to mount it, there is a lip where the bracket would not be flush with the transom. So the question is: What to put in there to fill it to be flush. I was thinking a piece of plastic board (like the stuff used on decks now) or maybe a piece of marine grade plywood. Any ideas?

CATransplant · Jul 6, 2007

Re: Trolling motor bracket

Ick! I assume you're mounting it there because of the height, correct?

I don't think you'll ever be happy with anything filling that gap, to be frank. Can you rethink? Can the outboard be mounted lower on the bracket somehow?

If you must, you could probably make up a filler from the nylon cutting boards they sell these days. They're inert, and come in white as well as a translucent colorless. You can cut them with woodworking tools, and it would be easy to make up the correct thickness. I've seen those cutting boards anywhere from 1/4" to 3/8" thick.

Even so, I'd be looking at some other way to mount, so you have the bracket all on the flat section of that transom. I promise that you won't be happy otherwise.

CATransplant · Jul 6, 2007

Re: Trolling motor bracket

Oh, yeah...can you give us the brand and model of that bracket? That might lead to some other ideas.

Flyin1500 · Jul 6, 2007

Re: Trolling motor bracket

The bracket is a Garelick 71091 w/ a 15 1/2 inch throw. I'm gonna slapa Honda 9.9 4s on there. I went out and tried it below the lip. It'll fit perfectly, but the instructions have you measure the distance from the cavitation plate of the trolling motor to the top of the transom clamp and add the distance of the throw and add the total...that's the number of inches you mount above the bottom of the boat (that's how I got the idea of where to mount it). With it mounted below the lip, the motor will be below the recommended mounting location. That being said, this model has intermediate positions. Could I just do that, and not use the lower positions? I guess I never considered that before, and it's definitely the easiest solution.

CATransplant · Jul 6, 2007

Re: Trolling motor bracket

There ya go. If it has different positions you can lower the motor to, you're home free. Be sure to seal the mounting holes well, so you avoid water intrusion.

You'd always hate that awkward mounting position.

Flyin1500 · Jul 6, 2007

Re: Trolling motor bracket

Awesome. I was hoping for a simple answer. Next quick question: What should I use as a backing material for rigidity on the inside of the transom? MG plywood? metal? The area I'm thinking has the battery box on that side of the boat. Any potential problems by using a metal plate backing there? Or should I stick with wood? Thanks again!

CATransplant · Jul 6, 2007

Re: Trolling motor bracket

I think that if there's not possibility of contact between the battery terminals or bare wires, the metal backing plate would work fine. It doesnt have to be really thick.

Also, before you start drilling holes, do make sure that the front of your kicker won't interfere in any way with that part of the transom that sticks out, since you're planning to mount below it. I'd think you could attach the kicker to the mount, then measure to make sure there's adequate clearance. It looks like it'll probably work, but you should make sure. It'd be a shame to drill, then find an interference.

CATransplant · Jul 6, 2007

Re: Trolling motor bracket

One other thing: A lot of guys use a wooden backing plate on the outside of the transom, too, just to keep the metal bracket from contacting the fiberglass. It would also move the bracket another 3/4" out. I saw a nice one on a boat, made of 3/4" plywood, with the edges beveled and then the whole thing painted to match the boat. Looked like it belonged there. You could also use a panel of that nylon cutting board material I mentioned for a clean look and isolation of the bracket from the fiberglass. It'd sure make it easier if you someday took the thing off.

Flyin1500 · Jul 6, 2007

Re: Trolling motor bracket

CATransplant said:
I think that if there's not possibility of contact between the battery terminals or bare wires, the metal backing plate would work fine. It doesnt have to be really thick.

No worries there...plus I'm gonna put the battery in a box eventually

CATransplant said:
Also, before you start drilling holes, do make sure that the front of your kicker won't interfere in any way with that part of the transom that sticks out, since you're planning to mount below it. I'd think you could attach the kicker to the mount, then measure to make sure there's adequate clearance. It looks like it'll probably work, but you should make sure. It'd be a shame to drill, then find an interference.

I will definately do that! Again thanks for all the ideas and help. I'll throw pics up when I'm done

Flyin1500 · Jul 6, 2007

Re: Trolling motor bracket

CATransplant said:
One other thing: A lot of guys use a wooden backing plate on the outside of the transom, too, just to keep the metal bracket from contacting the fiberglass. It would also move the bracket another 3/4" out. I saw a nice one on a boat, made of 3/4" plywood, with the edges beveled and then the whole thing painted to match the boat. Looked like it belonged there. You could also use a panel of that nylon cutting board material I mentioned for a clean look and isolation of the bracket from the fiberglass. It'd sure make it easier if you someday took the thing off.

If I used some finishing plywood, could you just paint that or is Marine Grade the only way to go for something like that?

CATransplant · Jul 6, 2007

Re: Trolling motor bracket

You don't need Marine grade. Any exterior plywood will work, but it will have to be thoroughly painted, especially the edges.