Trouble Code 0336 with new motor

[Matt9712]

So that purple/white wire is a common feed for coil,injectors and relays? Because if that's the case then computer would be switching the power on and off. The purple feeds that are supplying my fuel pump and ignition relays stay hot and don't switch on and off. The only difference in the system is when the fuel pump kicks off the Blue/white and White/blue grounds switch to a voltage of 2.5V. These wires are the ones that go directly to relay on fuse box. I guess whats really throwing me off is if the computer is thinking there is a fault and shutting power off.

 

[alldodge]

I'm unable to find a GI version of wiring which shows the HVS distributor. I'm thinking your motor is wired up more like the Merc, but unable to verify. The Merc only supply's grounds and 5V, it supplies no 12V.

What gets me is not seeing 12V across the other side on the relay coil. The coil has resistance but with nothing connected to the open side it should be 12V not 2.5V. With VP and Merc they both use the purple wire as power feed and does not come direct from the ECM

 

[Matt9712]

Thought I found the smoking gun.....didnt happen so I erased this last post

 

[alldodge]

Thought I found the smoking gun.....didnt happen so I erased this last post

Hate it when you think your that close, bummer

 

[Matt9712]

A lot of what I've read says it could be timing. I feel like I'm pretty well set with the timing tho. However if for some reason a couple degrees could give it a crank sync noise code I might try setting it again. Do I need a special tool to turn the harmonic balancer by hand because even with plugs out I can't spin by hand. I'm not sure if I should line it up exactly at TDC by marks I have been only about 3 degrees BTDC but not sure how sensitive this is

 

[alldodge]

If the drive was removed it should move a bit easier without plugs. That said, I don't see it as being timing. If timing was off it would fire but not very well. You could put a couple ounces of gas down the TB and see if it will fire. Doing this rules out if the issue is spark, but I do think that is the issue

 

[Matt9712]

Here is a video of exactly what it's doing. Coil will fire a couple times then stop no matter how long you hold key .....once you release key it will fire again a couple times. But seems to be a very weak spark at best
https://youtu.be/4bvZXn15Zbo

 

[alldodge]

Sure looks like the ECM is turning off the spark so gas won't help. Guessing its because the code 336 is still there

 

[Matt9712]

Can i put a jumper in place of relay so my coil and injectors will stay energized so I can eliminate ignition system? Or will this screw computer up? I am beginning to wonder if it's a true code or if my computer is bad now as I've exhausted about everything that could cause 0336

 

[alldodge]

A I see it: Whether the coil and injectors get power from the key or from the ECM, in all cases on side of each of the gets steady 12V power. The ECM controls the operation by applying a ground. So apply 12V to one side sounds like a plan, the only thought to make sure nothing gets messed up further would be to disconnect the feed from the ECM during the test.

This is with the thought that the power is coming from the ECM. Since we don't have an accurate schematic of your motor, it might actually be getting 12V to the ECM and injectors from another source that we have yet to determine

 

[Matt9712]

Ok so I completely reset timing. Cranked it by hand to get it exactly at top dead center. Put everything back together.
Without plugging in camshaft position sensor - Coil fires consistently
With camshaft position sensor - Coil back to only firing 4-5 times

Without camshaft sensor fuel pressure on top rail is 59-60 when pump runs as soon as pump shuts off pressure goes to zero. When boat is cranking fuel pressure goes back to around 59.

Checked fuel pressure due to fact i had spark at coil now but still wouldn't run

 

[alldodge]

If this was a Merc motor the pressure should not immediately drop to zero, if it did do that then there is a bad injector or regulator. Second thing is pressure should not go to 60 psi, it should be no more the 40 psi.

 

[Fun Times]

With Volvo's the fuel psi is a bit higher so 50 - 60 is not uncommon to see.

While I don't think you'd have a Cam sensor issue, you could find a more affordable Cam Sensor at the local auto store by looking up a 1998 GMC 1500 5.7L truck engine as they are the same since Volvo wants $150.00ish+ while an auto store is more around the $50.00ish range...That mentioned, I believe you said you installed a new distributor assembly?? If so that should have cam with a new Cam sensor ?.

 

[Matt9712]

No I havent replaced the distributor but when I brought to shop he said they installed a distributor just to rule it out. He said there was no change and reinstalled mine. He a also put in a new crankshaft position sensor that he had laying around shop and I bought a new one last week to verify he didn't put a defected one in. Here's a quick rundown of what is new.
Long block
Fuel pump
Camshaft position sensor
Crankshaft position sensor
Ignition module
Ignition coil
Rotor cap
Batteries

(Also new riser manifolds but shouldn't have anything with no start issue )

 

[Matt9712]

And I didn't jump out the relay because I was nervous about doing more damage to ECU.

 

[alldodge]

Hate to say it but unless there is some weird wiring issue, it sure looks like the ECM

 

[Fun Times]

And this no start issue has been going on since the new block was first installed? What happened to the original engine block?
Your fuel psi shouldn't be dropping to 0 so quickly like that.
Are you able to bypass the engine wire harness connector like the guy did in the video I posted above?...You need to see if you have an engine side issue or a boat wiring issue first and foremost especially since you've had differnet things happen power wise while working at both ends of the wiring harnesses..

Edit: Come to think of it, You may want to try pulling out a few spark plugs to make sure they aren't fuel fouled....Just in case the injectors aren't stuck open for some reason.

 

[Matt9712]

Ya this has been an issue since the new block was installed. I haven't been able to get it to start since it was put in. The original block ended up with a bent or broke crank. ( Had mobile mechanic diagnose it before i pulled it ) I haven't pulled the pan off the old motor to inspect due to spending so much time on new one trying to get it to fire.
I haven't tried to jump out the 5-6 on helm wiring like video as I couldn't tell in video if they had ECM installed while they did it. It looks very easy so if it's safe with computer hooked up I will try in morning.

Some of the new plugs appear to be pretty fouled and they were replaced last week.

 

[Fun Times]

The 3 wires/pins-holes that need jumped are for the ignition (Purple wire), 12v main power (Red wire) at the key switch) and the starting circuits (Yellow/Red wire)...All you are doing with those wires is bypassing the key switch and wire harness on the boat side basically hot wiring the ignition key further down the line. If the engine runs normal then work backwards to the boat...If the engine don't work normal then work on the engine.

Make sure all your spark plugs are clean/fresh because having a fuel system issue such as leaking injectors or even a faulty fuel pressure regulator, etc. will keep the engine from starting giving you a false sense of direction to go/work towards.

Keep your batteries charged up to 100 % during all this testing as you are running them down I'm sure even if they are new.

Was there any know 12 volt power arcing wires while pulling/reinstalling the engine that may have caused an issue?

 

[Matt9712]

I will jump it out tomorrow for sure I was just nervous that I might screw up the computer if by chance it was still good.
I will have to look up leaky injectors because a couple were definitely fouled with a black dryish crime. Can injectors from a 98 GMC 1500 work in this as well? Might be worth swapping since most everything else new anyways.
There has never been any arcing as far as I know but I havent had this boat long and pretty sure I got taken for a ride as I think there was obvious issues I was blind to until it was too late.
Would a faulty fuel pressure gauge let the pressure drop from 60 - 0 as soon as pump cut off? I would think there would be some kind of check valve in fuel line to prevent the drop.