Trouble Code 0336 with new motor

[Fun Times]

While there are aftermarket injectors available at special type places such as online and shops/parts places that sell them, the injectors used in the marine engines weren't necessarily matched up to an automobile such as the late GMC trucks so without digging/searching into great detail tonight of what type and size your engine uses vs other engine models, you wouldn't be able to use just a random truck injector on your marine engine....Some of the trucks back then had fuel PSI somewhere in the 90ish psi range if I recall correctly which changes a whole calculation.

For now the best thing to start with would be finding either a local fuel injector cleaning + possible repair shop or send them out by mail. They will clean and measure the flow rate and tell you if it's leaking and if it can be repaired or size up the ones you have if you need new ones. Search online under fuel injector ultrasonic cleaning services for more info if desired.

Quality of the gauge is important but typically the fuel rail will hold most of the pressure for a very long time so you should be seeing it held on the gauge too.

 

[alldodge]

While cleaning the injectors may help I would say that if the injectors are leaking you should be able to see them drip when the pump is ON being TBI.

 

[Fun Times]

Unfortunately for visual reasons for leaking injectors it's not as easy to diagnose being the engine model is Gi-F which uses a fuel rail with one injector to each cylinder....One way of a few to check would be we'd have to carefully lift the rail slightly out to see which injectors keep leaking after shut down of the 2 second ECM prime.

Here's the fuel rail for this engine model, http://www.volvopentastore.com/Fuel...on_id.662155156--store_id.366--view_id.787745

Complete parts guide, http://www.volvopentastore.com/Mari...on_id.662155156--store_id.366--view_id.765222

 

[Matt9712]

I jumped it out and the boat did the same thing. So because of that I'm thinking I can rule out wiring from front of boat.
I pulled the fuel rail off and am going to try and clean the injectors later tonight. Lots of good DIY videos on YouTube about doing that. I looked at injectors online and WOW! I have never replaced one but had no idea how expensive that they were even for cars....boats are insane! So I'm definitely going to try the cleaning part first. Before I reinstall rail is it possible to hook up fuel lines and turn pump on? I was thinking about putting rail in bucket to see if they leak after cleaning.

The more I read online it says if fuel pressure goes from full 60 to zero right away that it could be check valve in fuel pump or regulator and if pressure drops slowly that would be indicative of a leaky injector. Does that sound right? Mine goes from 60 - 0 as soon as pump shuts off

 

[alldodge]

The more I read online it says if fuel pressure goes from full 60 to zero right away that it could be check valve in fuel pump or regulator and if pressure drops slowly that would be indicative of a leaky injector. Does that sound right? Mine goes from 60 - 0 as soon as pump shuts off

Sounds right to me

When reinstalling injectors in the rail get some glycerin (KY jelly or similar) helps get the O rigs in without pinching them.

 

[Matt9712]

Thanks i will definitely get something so it don't screw up the o rings. Would be just my luck to pull them off to clean and then make worse lol

 

[Matt9712]

Any idea where a check valve might be located? It's a brand new pump so hopefully it's not internal to that

 

[alldodge]

The fuel pressure regulator is item 22 in Fun Times post 63 link

 

[Matt9712]

Does the fuel pressure regulator also act as check valve?

 

[alldodge]

Does the fuel pressure regulator also act as check valve?

Yes, if you look at the link it has a line which will return over pressure fuel back to the filter

 

[Matt9712]

Started looking at wiring harness and read that crank position sensor wiring can't be close to spark plug wires. The harness only goes in one way so I got as much slack out of it as possible and draped plugs over side of motor as much as possible to keep as far away from crank wiring. Jumped out the helm wiring again ...... and she fired up!! Ran really rough but didn't stall until I gave her a little gas to try and smooth her out. Going to lengthen the wiring so I can keep away from plugs and try again. Fingers crossed!! But definitely closer and I truly appreciate all the help from everyone!!

 

[Matt9712]

Made up an extension for harness to get away from spark plug wires ...... Now back to won't start....beginning to want to light this boat on fire . Harness is good it ohms out fine... Twisted a pair to match the as found wiring.

 

[alldodge]

While sprak plug wires may have an impact on the sensor, I don't think its that susceptible to them. The knock sensor is. I think it started because something either made connection during moving things around or something it the ECM made a bad connection and it came apart again

 

[Matt9712]

I've exhausted everything so I did one last ditch effort in order to test crankshaft sensor.
I pulled all plugs hooked meter up to signal wire Purple/white and ground to battery and manually rotated motor. The sensor seems to be working I get 3.9V then 0 on signal as I'm turning motor. I have 5V feed going into it not sure if 3.9 is enough for ECM to see? Does that sound right?

 

[alldodge]

Yes that sounds good enough.
Would be nice if you could find any V8 ECM to try of your year. This would verify that it is the ECM and not something else. Could not leave it on the motor but would be a good test