trying to figure out what went wrong

[silvert]

Bought a 99 rinker 232 5.7 bravo 3 that needs an engine, got everything out, bought a new Engine. Would like to figure out what went wrong before i install the new engone. Having a hard time trying to figure out why the engine in the boat went bad. The previous owner said that shop he took it to said it over heated and locked up. What I found so far:
Entire engine was filled up with water
Manifolds had water in the exhaust (evidence of water leaking between risers and manifolds and the gaskets)
Raw water pump impeller was all torn up (would support the over heating theory)
block was cracked right below the heads in the lifter gallery

The previous owner said the engine quit after 10 mins of unloading off the trailer in July 2014.
The boat sat over the winter at the shop and was not winterized, so that could be why the block is cracked. May not be related to why it originally went bad. I don't think an overheating issue would crack the block in the lifter gallery. If the exhaust manifolds filled with water, that would definitely hydro lock the engine.

I'd like to figure it out so it don't happen with the new engine. I got a new raw water pump, so that would eliminate that issue. I filled the manifolds water passages with water and the level hasn't dropped, I think that eliminates a cracked exhaust manifold. Haven't tested the risers yet.
So I'm thinking either it did overheat or it hydro locked due to bad manifolds/risers/gaskets. Overheating should be fixed with new pump. Not sure if I should replace manifolds and risers, just risers or none of the above.
There was a milk shake up top, so the engine did run with water in the oil for a bit. Could have been a blown head gasket due to overheating? I will pull the heads off the old engine to investigate further in the next few days.

 

[silvert]

not sure if this testing shows anything or not but water level never went down

 

[silvert]

my michiganmotorz engine awaiting my gimble ring to come back so I can install it

 

[bruceb58]

If it wasn't winterized, you could easily have cracked manifolds. I would at least pressure test them before using them.

 

[silvert]

The drains to the manifolds were taken out so there was no water in the coolant passages

 

[Ibl0wstuffup]

Fill the manifolds with acetone. It will leak through cracks water wont. If it was mine I would replace the manifolds for peace of mind.

 

[silvert]

Are the barr replacements any good? I see they are made in the us which is a good start.

 

[NHGuy]

I bought some HGE manifolds, took one look at them and went back for OE. For the $40 or $50 it is worth the difference. There is a reason they are not as cheap.
And yes chevy small block engines will crack in the lifter valley when left with water in them during a hard freeze.
If you want to take it beyond the acetone test, you could pressure test it. I'd say make up a plate to cover where the riser attaches, make an air valve fitting for the water feed hose and pump it up.
You could also drill your cover plate to the diameter of a wheel valve and put one there, then clamp the hose.

 

[Scott Danforth]

BARR manifolds are pretty good. Buddy Barr castings makes castings for both Volvo and Mercruiser.

 

[alldodge]

The previous owner said the engine quit after 10 mins of unloading off the trailer in July 2014.
.

After doing what others have mentioned to ensure you will not have water intrusion, the engine may or may not start if the PO is correct.

If it up and quit there may be other issues which would need to be determined most likely in the electrical area

 

[silvert]

What is po?

 

[bruceb58]

What is po?

Previous owner.

 

[silvert]

Does this look like it was leaking? This is looking into the riser from where the rubber coupling attaches.

 

[silvert]

water isn't supposed to come out of the spark plug hole is it? Lol

 

[silvert]

looks like the exhaust shutters melted off.

 

[stonyloam]

Back to the original question, " what went wrong?": Easy. The PO neglected the maintenance on the outdrive and the impeller failed and the engine WAY OVERHEATED (evidenced by the burnt up shutters), to the point where it seized, then failed to winterized, block and manifolds cracked and leaked water into the engine. How to prevent reoccurrence? That is easy too. New impeller every couple of years.

 

[Fishermark]

Back to the original question, " what went wrong?": Easy. The PO neglected the maintenance on the outdrive and the impeller failed and the engine WAY OVERHEATED (evidenced by the burnt up shutters), to the point where it seized, then failed to winterized, block and manifolds cracked and leaked water into the engine. How to prevent reoccurrence? That is easy too. New impeller every couple of years.

That wouldn't explain the milkshake in the engine. The only way for a "milkshake" to happen is for the water to mix with the oil - like the engine was running.

I would make good and sure of the manifolds and risers before putting them on a new engine. In fact, now might be a good time to consider the dry joint manifold system.

 

[stonyloam]

He said "milkshake up top" I took that to be on the heads around the rockers, that could just be sludge and condensation. in any case it looks like the impeller failure led to the engine failure.

 

[Bondo]

He said "milkshake up top" I took that to be on the heads around the rockers, that could just be sludge and condensation. in any case it looks like the impeller failure led to the engine failure.

Ayuh,... I'm with You Stoney,....

Bottom line,.... Lack of Maintenance killed it,...

Once back on the wagon, doin' nothin' to it, destroyed the rest of any salvage parts,....

If in fact the manifolds were drained, 'n the block wasn't,...
The manifolds Might be Ok,...

Riggin' a pressure test would be a good idea,...

 

[silvert]

I think I can get one more season out of this impeller