Very high temp readings on left front drum/hub: 250 degrees inner 150 outer

MarkSee

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,172
Looking for some advice on what to look at next instead of me throwing more parts and time at it which may do no good.

As I’m looking to downsize to a smaller boat very soon, switching over to disc brakes, buying a new axle not really an option if it can be avoided as I’m trying to make the trailer safe/healthy enough for the sale.

1984 tandem axle with 8 lug, 12 inch drum brakes all around; either 5k or 6k axles.

2 years ago I replaced all 4 backing plate assemblies, new master cylinder, all new brake lines and had the drums turned.

Rear axle on both sides have no temperature issues (ambient temperature around 90, rear axles show 107-112 and barely warm to the touch). Right front brake runs about 20 degrees hotter than rear brakes.
Trailer used mostly in saltwater entire life that I am aware of.

Recent history: I check hub temperatures using the feel method each time getting to the ramp and no issues this year until July when I found that during the 40 mile drive to the ramp, the left front bearing buddy departed somewhere on the drive. Installed a spare greased bearing buddy at the ramp and made it home later that day with no other issues.

Pulled the hub/drum off and threw away the bearings and races which were burnt, installed new races, packed new bearings (25580-14125A) and since I had a new/complete backing plate, installed that also along with a new Bearing Buddy Spindo Seal kit that trailer uses since I bought it in 2010.

Test drove it around the streets for about 7 miles and in checking the hub temperatures with my IR gun, the outer bearing area of the left front around 150-160 degrees and inner bearing area around 250 degrees; obviously something is wrong. No smoke being seen but for sure a slight burn smell.

Thought maybe it might be the hub/drum itself so bought a new drum along with new bearings and new Spindo Seal kit. Adjusted the shoes in on both front brakes so they were not engaging at all but had the same temperature results.

Thought maybe the left front bearings might be too tight so I removed cotter, loosened the axle nut, pulled out the hub slightly, pushed it back on, spun the hub forward while tightening to 20 foot pounds to seat, loosened nut then fully hand tightened and inserted cotter pin. Shoes still loosened so they won’t engage.

Drove around the streets again with basically the same temperature readings with the hub area where the shoes would be around 250 degrees but top and bottom over 200 degrees also.

When I bought that new drum, it already had the races installed, I did not double check that they were fully seated nor did I think I needed to take the drum and have it turned.

What to try next in hopes of getting that drum temperature down?

thanks.......Mark
 

Lowlysubaruguy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 3, 2012
Messages
514
make sure the cylinders pistons are moving when you have the drum off you should be able to push on the shoes and make them move from both sides. Not uncommon for a sticking wheel cylinder to hang a brake on force from hydraulics is high the retraction is only springs so it’s easyfor them to apply harder to release. Is it possible the bearings are the wrong ones for your new races maybe clean them apply a thin layer of grease push the bearing into the race without turning it and pull it out see if there contact is across the full face of the race and bearing?

Look for a pinched line feeding that brake.
 

jwoodall912

Cadet
Joined
Sep 7, 2019
Messages
6
It just recently started doing this? Since you said that the new backing plates were put on two years ago?
 

MarkSee

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,172
yes, just since the event this July where I installed a new backing plate along with new bearings on just the left front.
Then after replacing those and testing was when I found the high temps just doing a test around town.
Then I installed a brand new drum for the left front but high temps continue.

That comment about 2 years ago was just giving some history on the work I did which back then I replaced all 4 backing plates.

Mark
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
If you can disable the brakes (if it's an override system, just flip the interlock across. If it's electric, disable however it's meant to be done), and make sure the brake shoes aren't touching, then take it for a drive. That should isolate if it's a dragging shoe or a bearing issue...

Chris........
 

MarkSee

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,172
No lockout lever/method I know of being a 1980s surge brake style system with a Titan model 20 master cylinder where as the trailer moves forward to stop, the front master cylinder 'L' bracket is pushed against a metal bar in the coupler engaging the brakes.

I have the shoes really loosened so they are not rubbing against the drum when I spin the wheel while jacked up so I don't believe the shoes are engaging the drum even when braking.

As this is a new drum with new bearings and the previous drum and new bearings are both causing high heat, seems like something else in common is causing this but those incredibly high temps around where the shoes would be makes me wonder about the new backing plate assembly I installed.

Mark
 
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