Volvo 5.0 GI Bogging down

BarryTurano

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2014
Messages
145
I am about at wits end. I have a 1999 Volvo 5.0 GI throttle body fuel injected motor. On a new to me Albemarle 242 cc. The boat sat up for a few years so there were fuel issues. I have pumped both tanks and cleaned the fuel system, replaced BOTH fuel pumps. Removed the sludge from the VST, replaced the fuel injectors (because they were so bad that Injector Renew could not get them operational) also replaced the distributor assembly, new wires. The motor still runs like crap. At about 2200 rpms the computer starts to dump fuel and the timing changes. So the motor just bogs down this was found on engine diagnostic gauges with the boat under load. The motor runs worse now with new parts than it did with the old clogged system. The only thing left is to change the ECM. The computer is NOT throwing any codes. My concern in doing that is what happens if there is no change. Please I need some ideas of what else it could possibly be.
Thanks,
Barry
 

Saline Marina

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 9, 2014
Messages
162
"starts to dump fuel"...not following this, you mean the injector pulsewidth increases visually?

The TPS throttle position sensor and the MAP manifold absolute pressure are also key players in a TBI system, as the ECM "looks up" the injector pulsewidth and spark advance from a table based on speed and load. Personally I would change them to eliminate issues and check harness connections.

TBI is very sensitive to vacuum leaks, this could be the gasket under the TBI to any other vacuum lines there are on the motor. It could be the hose going to a PCV valve (not sure if your engine has this) which has a split and is allowing unmetered air to enter the engine.

I would also think about changing the coil. A marginal spark would be a lot more noticeable under load and at speed when the coil is working harder from an electrical standpoint. You could get a "spark plug visualization tool" from Autozone or the like, basically its a set of points that simulate a spark plug. When a HEI ignition is functioning correctly, the spark will jump a 1/2" gap. Don't hold onto the tool while cranking!! If you think about the way the distributor works, there is no mechanical advance, all the advance and retard is done by ECM, so the pole on the rotor is hardly ever going to be pointed directly at the lug for the spark plug wire, inside the distributor cap. The spark must jump that gap to then jump the gap on the plug itself...so if you think about it from that standpoint, the inside of the distributor cap is filled with electrical fire as the engine runs, and the HEI needs a *lot* of energy delivered. This is why I say check and or change the coil.

Also I have to ask about your ignition module, did you change it with the distributor base or is it the same? That's a much lower possibility, in my experience they either run properly or die completely with the engine a no-start-no-run in the latter condition.

The ECM itself is very reliable. I have a 26 year old TBI ECM which functions perfectly in a truck and had a 19-yr old version also in a truck with never a hitch. I have never heard of anyone else having to change one, only at an auto dealership where they didn't really understand what was wrong and "bad computer" seemed like an appropriate diagnosis. Unless the main circuit board was visually corroded or the connectors corroded that would be the last thing I'd change.
 
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Tail_Gunner

Admiral
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
6,237
Start with a code reader its going into limp mode. Search mefi mefi led code reader here in iboat there's a diagram somewhere below is a cut and paste from NewPortDave...guy really knew his stuff

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica]Here you go...

How to make a Marine EFI Code tool for under $1.00

Materials needed:

One 12volt resistor type LED light
One small paperclip cut in half


This home made code tool should work on all GM MEFI 1,2,3 or 4 marine EFI systems with the ten pin DLC (Data Link Connector).

How to hook it up:

1) Ignition key “OFF”
2) Remove the cap from the Data Link Connector (DLC)
3) Slide the LED into the female terminals of position E and F on the DLC, making sure that the positive side goes into terminal F and the negative side into terminal E
4) Turn the ignition key to the “ON” position (LED should come on)
5) Insert the half paperclip into terminals A and B – This puts the engine in “Service Mode” - (you will hear fuel pump come on, and code will begin to flash on the LED)
6) Read codes by observing LED flashs. If the self diagnostic system is working it will flash code 12 – one flash, pause, two flashes, long pause – it will repeat three times. If other codes are present they will flash in order of lowest to highest.

text


For more details on how to read codes, clear codes, what “Service Mode” is, how to set base timing, etc. refer to appropriate service manual.

I don’t recommend making and using this tool unless you are confident that you can do it correctly. Hooking it up incorrectly could damage the ECM.

Dave

[/FONT]
 
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