Volvo Penta 3.0L

[Scott Danforth]

if the seal isnt there, you will eventually kill the pump as the bearings are now exposed to water.

did you ever check the raw water inlet fitting on the outdrive? the one that the supply hose is attached to on the outdrive end? they fail on volvos, and should be replaced when you replace bellows every few years.

 

[mltessier]

No have not check that. Not sure how?

if the seal isnt there, you will eventually kill the pump as the bearings are now exposed to water.

did you ever check the raw water inlet fitting on the outdrive? the one that the supply hose is attached to on the outdrive end? they fail on volvos, and should be replaced when you replace bellows every few years.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you tilt the drive up, get underneath and look.

or when you do your annual drive removal for inspection, you look.

if you did the clear hose test and you have bubbles, this is a common location of sucking air on VP's

 

[mltessier]

Remove the large hose going to it, and remove belt on pulley. Insert something into the vanes and try to hold it to see if pulley can be turned by hand, and look at all the vanes to see if they are there

Without a thermostat or one which stays open it should run cooler

Getting ready to do this test. What should I expect? Should pulley turn when holding the vanes or should it not turn?

 

[alldodge]

Your checking to find out if the vanes have broke loose from the shaft. The pulley should not turn if the vanes are held

Also look at the vanes to see if there is no damage

 

[mltessier]

Your checking to find out if the vanes have broke loose from the shaft. The pulley should not turn if the vanes are held

Also look at the vanes to see if there is no damage

Decided to recheck water flow at pump. Not much water is coming out. I think there should be at least as much water coming out as I put in. I did back flush it and water came out the back. Also pulled the hose that goes to the thermostat housing and no water came out from there when engin is running. Have not checked circulating pump yet because I suppose there needs to be water coming to it fo it to work. ???

 

[mltessier]

Remove the large hose going to it, and remove belt on pulley. Insert something into the vanes and try to hold it to see if pulley can be turned by hand, and look at all the vanes to see if they are there

Without a thermostat or one which stays open it should run cooler

Well had the boat working ok on muffs in the yard. Put in the water this weekend and it temp went up with in 5 minutes. So now I think that it's not pulling any water. On the muffs, the pressure probably kept the temp down. Any thoughts?

 

[alldodge]

Well had the boat working ok on muffs in the yard. Put in the water this weekend and it temp went up with in 5 minutes. So now I think that it's not pulling any water. On the muffs, the pressure probably kept the temp down. Any thoughts?

That would have me looking at the impeller and inlet fitting that Scott mentioned

 

[mltessier]

That would have me looking at the impeller and inlet fitting that Scott mentioned

Finally found the problem. The raw water pump was bad. Replaced it and all was good for the first 1 hour ride. Second ride that engine lost power a couple of times then overheated again. Started it back up after a while and it ran good for a couple minutes, then hesitated a couple of times and stalled but no overheat. Got the boat back to boat lift ok.
My boat lift sits in very shallow water(working on extending the dock) and the second time we went out I think I might have pulled some junk from the bottom. Could that have caused the symptoms I described earlier?

 

[alldodge]

If stuff is being sucked up you can overheat. If there has been enough stuff sucked up, it can clog up the block

 

[mltessier]

If stuff is being sucked up you can overheat. If there has been enough stuff sucked up, it can clog up the block

Thanks for your help! What can be done to flush the block?

 

[alldodge]

Without pulling core/freeze plugs Not a whole lot. If drain plugs and their bushings can be removed to help flushing is about it that I am aware of

 

[mltessier]

Without pulling core/freeze plugs Not a whole lot. If drain plugs and their bushings can be removed to help flushing is about it that I am aware of

I had a local tech tech look at the engin. He did a couple of tests while on the boat lift. Water pump is pulling, no problem. After playing with the carb and looking he told me that there wasn't any gas getting to it (bowl would fill up and empty according to him, that was the source of the bogging down/stalling engin) so he had a look at the gas pump. Next step is to remove/replace/clean (maybe) the small filter in the pump.
I can understand that gas might not be going to the carb, but how would that cause an overheat? He seemed to think they where 2 separate issues. Also noticed a small leak on the power head indicating a bad head gasket. Ideas/input?

 

[alldodge]

Also noticed a small leak on the power head indicating a bad head gasket. Ideas/input?

Head leak, that will can cause an overheat

 

[mltessier]

Head leak, that will can cause an overheat

Thanks for your input. In that case would an overheat situation happen all the time? I've driven the boat on a couple of separate occasions and the engin did not overheat.

 

[alldodge]

If there is crd in the block some may get washed out and no overheat, the

did you ever check the raw water inlet fitting on the outdrive?

inlet fitting is smaller and can get clogged easier, so that can cause the issue. It can clog enough to increase heat and unclog a bit so it doesn't.

Did you ever check it?