VRO conversion 150 hp

pastorbud

Chief Petty Officer
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Jun 1, 2005
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567
I got the starter apart today. I found the commutator at the bottom. The brushes looked good, and there was infinite resistance from each wedge of the pie to the shaft.

I pulled the armature out of the casing (little tricky; at first I thought it was somehow spring-loaded, but turns out it was the permanent magnets inside the case causing the resistance).

After it was out, I turned it over and re-inserted the shaft from the top, just so I could check the play in the bushing without the armature in the casing. It had more play than I would have expected.

I had already ordered a cheap starter from eBay. (I know, I know! I got stranded a few years ago with a bad starter and had to call Sea Tow. Since then, I've made it a habit to have a spare starter on board.)

So anyway, with the new starter in and two batteries in parallel, it turned over real good.

Nonetheless...... during the compression test, it still went to a certain pressure and kicked off like it did before!

But the compression readings were a little higher and closer together than previously:

110 (kicked off), 110 (kicked off), 100 (kicked off), 100, 95, 110. (The three that kicked off were all on the port side, FWIW.)

That cylinder that measured 95, was 90 before, so the pressure on the "low" cylinder is getting better each time I run it.

The motor also started very easily, and idled fairly well. It wanted to backfire intermittently, and the backfiring became less pronounced and less frequent at higher RPMs. (Tach doesn't work yet, so I couldn't measure RPMs.)

I DO know it's leaking fuel around more than one of the carburetor bowls.

Would that make it run lean on the leaking carbs? That could explain the backfiring. Guess plain ol' dirt could do that, too.

Just want to have some assurance that the compression is tolerable (if not optimal), before I do the other stuff.
 

pastorbud

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
567
Oh... it also had some unburned fuel in the exhaust... maybe also because of the backfiring?
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
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Apr 3, 2002
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9,612
Running batteries in parallel increases the capacity, but doesn't increase output (in series would double the voltage and damage or destroy the starter). It sounds like you are still concerned about the starting circuit or starter operation, even with a replacement starter.

I think the "kicking off" might be a mechanical issue (testing with plugs removed). Up top, maybe a broken ring or something similar. If the lower unit is attached, could be a mechanical issue related to the gearcase or driveshaft. I may misunderstand what you were describing, but it sounds like you were running with a hose connected to the water intake tube, maybe revving that way. That could have bad results.
 

pastorbud

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
567
Yes, gearcase is off for now. I won't rev it again. Thanks for the warning. I'll take a video of what's happening when I try to do the compression test.

I don't think it's a starting circuit issue, since I'm turning it over with a test switch sending 12 volts to the relay.

I might try it again with a spare relay from my other boat, just to eliminate any doubt.
 

pastorbud

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
567
I talked with a buddy at a meeting today who has a lot of outboard repair experience. He said that problem with the starter disengaging can be caused by a problem with the Bendix, such as a weak spring on the pinion shaft. Kinda makes sense.

This is the first engine I've worked on where the Bendix wasn't part of the starter. It's got a reduction gear and a separate pinion shaft with Bendix.

I'll take a look at it. New mechanism costs more than the starter! It's a little frustrating, because I'm just trying to check compression before I put any (more) money in it. But I can't check compression until I put money in it!
 
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