Water in all 3 cylinders

[DudeAbides]

I swapped out my piston and rings. That was fun. Started up my 1989 85HP and I am getting water in all 3 cylinders. The head gasket is new, As is the exhaust gaskets.

I guess it's possible that I didn't install them perfectly?

Does anyone recommend RTV in addition to the gasket, or is that not a good idea?

I also noticed that the head appears to be either replaced or machined or both. The thing that I am curious about is that the rectangular passage at the bottom of the head and cylinder don't match up perfectly. Anyone think this may be an issue?

 

[DudeAbides]

This is what mine looks like (but its not mine, i pulled it off of ebay)

 

[DudeAbides]

No Title

This is what the style shown in a powerhead diagram that I have.

 

[gm280]

Why did you buy another head for your engine? Was your old (original) one cracked or something wrong with it? And looking between the two, I honestly can't see any difference. But that could be my eyes as well. It looks like that gasket for that head could easily be installed flipped seeing how it looks symmetrical. So are you certain you installed the gasket the correct way? And why did you replace the pistons and rings in the first place... IDK :noidea:

 

[DudeAbides]

No Title

Sorry I wasnt more specific about the pics Neither are mine, They are just pics of 2 different styles My style is the first post.

I did not buy a new head. The boat is new to me.

it looks like mine was refinished, replaced or both. Here are pics of mine ( Ididnt post them becuase they dont show the whole head

 

[DudeAbides]

No Title

here is one of my pistons

 

[DudeAbides]

I am pretty sure I lined up the gasket correctly.

There is only one passage way at the top, I lined it up with the passage way into the head.

 

[Frank Acampora]

There are only two places water can get into the cylinders: 1. At the head gasket and 2. At the exhaust cover gasket.

If you have a cracked block, water can get in that way but it is highly unlikely that all three cylinders are cracked.

The exhaust cover has two gaskets, one on either side of the stainless plate. The gasket is very thin at the bottom front (dogleg) and easy to crimp while installing, especially the inner gasket that seats against the block.. Remove the exhaust cover and check that gasket. Did you clean all gasket material off the block? Did you check the sealing surfaces to be certain they were true?

Did you torque the head bolts to 225 inch pounds? Did you make sure the block and head had no gasket residue on them?

 

[DudeAbides]

Thanks Frank. Yes I tourqued them to 225.

I will check the exhaust gaskets

 

[DudeAbides]

Yes I cleaned the old gaskets as best I could. I must admit i was not surgical about it. The head came out better than the exhaust


I will be sure to be as thorough as possible this time.

While I have them off. I will check to see how flat they lay together.

 

[Jiggz]

Don't forget there is a require torque pattern and make sure you do at least a two-step torquing process or even better 3-steps.

 

[DudeAbides]

Thanks Jiggz.

I do have a Seloc manual and have used the torquing order each time.

 

[jerryjerry05]

My first guess is the exhaust chest.
Yes your head has been machined and probably sandblasted too.
Like Frank said only 2 places.
The exhaust chest gaskets don't need any sealer if installed right.
BUT I use a bit of sealer to make sure it doesn't leak.
I don't put sealer on the head usually they have a material that after a bit of heat is applied it melts and makes a better seal.

The difference in the heads in the pic is the years they were made.
The newer one with the heat fins is the better one.
Better cooling.