Water in the lower unit?

[Hartley's boat]

Hey y'all! It's me again I started to change the gear oil in the lower unit on my Evinrude Fisherman 6hp 1970 model today and when I took out the fill/drain plug a small amount of water hurried out of there like it was squirting out past the gear oil! The gear oil followed of course and really didn't look milky like oil tends to look when it has water in it. What is the rule here? I am VERY new at this so I want to make sure I do the right thing here. Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[oldboat1]

might get mixed opinion, but I don't get excited about a little bit of water like that -- sounds like it settled out when stored. (If run it that way, you probably would get some of that emulsified milky mix.) An option is to refill it after draining, close it up and run it. Check after running a bit and see if there is evidence of water. If water, test it or have it tested, and reseal.

Other option is to just have it vacuum and pressure tested now, or do it yourself. If fails, reseal.

 

[Hartley's boat]

Thanx! I am going to refill it and run it for a bit. Is running it in my barrel of water good enough? I have not started it yet and it has been over a year since it was used so I have it rigged to a water barrel to start and test it.

 

[oldboat1]

think that makes sense. Test it after running in the barrel, and maybe even drain and refill (messy, but not much oil involved) -- think if it was obviously clear, though, I would just leave it. Check it again after running it on the boat. Rubber seals may heal themselves a bit too with fresh oil and use.

 

[Hartley's boat]

Thanx a lot! I will post my results. I really appreciate the advice! Being greeeeeeeeen green at this is nerve wracking! LOL! It's nice to find a good group like this to make this a little easier on me

 

[HighTrim]

When you changed the gear oil, did you use new crush washers? They are a one time use only, as they seal when they get crushed, hence the name. You can try to change the gaskets if you did not, and run for a bit, then check it, but likely will need a reseal. Most do at this age, not a big deal 20 bucks and about an hour and you are back on the water.

 

[Hartley's boat]

Yeah...they were new looking washers. I got her running in the barrel and I have a question about the pee hole....I don't see anything coming out of anywhere that would resemble a pee hole. I ran it for a couple minuets and shut it down just in case there's a problem. She runs real good but tends to stall when I back the throttle down to the "slow" position. I need to get used to messing with it I guess....... just really new to the whole thing.

 

[F_R]

Seems like everybody these days wants to watch their motor pee. It doesn't have a "pee hole". It blows water out the exhaust relief on the backside of the midsection as an indicator that the pump is working. Should be water coming out at all speeds. Note that is not a steady stream like a hose, but water and exhaust mixed.

 

[Hartley's boat]

Yeah...that is where I was looking for the "pee" LOL! I went back out and started her up again and it started peeing right away. It had sat for a yr or so and it took a little bit for the thermostat to open apparently. Now if I can dial her in good with the "lean / rich" mix so she idles good at the lowest speed I will be thrilled! It wants to stall when I turn the throttle down to the "shift" setting and it has to have a split second of choke when it is restarted so I imagine it is a little lean???

 

[oldboat1]

well, kind of responding to your specific questions as they come up -- assume you want to try out the Duracraft hull you discussed in an earlier thread or two.

If the motor will run out OK in a barrel, it should work fine on the boat for a test run. To kick it up a level, though, a stored motor normally needs some basic prepping. You've had a look at the l.u. oil, and got her running a bit. That motor doesn't have a tell tale -- sprays circulated water out of the exhaust port on the back of the leg. If any question about cooling, first step is to take off the lower unit and change out the impeller (water pump), as they deteriorate and can break up -- which you don't want. Better part of wisdom is to just get a replacement impeller and install it, then try it again in the barrel. See if you can get it to run reasonably smoothly (fresh gas/oil), and let it idle for a while. If cooling correctly, could boat test it at that point with a little more confidence. (Running in the barrel without the hood, check the surface temp on the top of the head with the heel of your hand -- if too hot to touch, shut it down. You should be able to hold your hand there for a few seconds --130 to 140 degrees or thereabouts, when at operating temp.) But assuming you've managed to get it running well enough to putter around some, you should be good to go for a bit.

Next step would be to check out the magneto (coils break down, and points need to be cleaned and reset -- or replaced. I normally replace the condensers too, along with plug wires. Also consider rebuilding the carburetor, particularly if some rough running or stalling. You may need some fuel pump work, and good to replace fuel lines. At that point, the motor is pretty much rehabbed -- which gets you back to the gearcase issue, if appropriate.

So likely more to it, but on the other hand want to get out and see if the rig works..... And next season, should be ready to go.

edit. got long winded -- sorry. See it's been only a year since run, so probably being too cautious (above).

 

[Hartley's boat]

I probably should have said that it was professionally rehabbed about a yr or so ago, It has all new fuel lines and spark plugs and I think the fuel pump was replaced as well. I don't have any paperwork on it but the guy I bought it from said that in 2014 it was rebuilt by a boat dealer /repair shop. I figure the carb might be causing it to run a little rough and stall at the lowest setting so I might go ahead and rebuild it this winter. I am going to take her out for a test run next week and I made sure to buy a oar! LOL! Just in case Thanks again to everyone for all your great help and advice!

 

[oldboat1]

yeah, that makes a difference -- maybe alluded to that somewhere, and I missed it. And they do smooth out some with just running. good motors -- sounds like the one you have has had some good attention.

bought a couple of oars and locks a few years ago, and cost about as much as some of my old motors! But I guess they are nice oars.

 

[Hartley's boat]

I have been seriously considering buying a really good trolling motor and saying the heck with the gas powered one! LOL! It would be a lot less hassle!

 

[oldboat1]

well, didn't mean to talk you out of anything. could have both an electric and the little 6 (think you were discussing an electric motor on an earlier thread.) Two's good. Three's even better

 

[Hartley's boat]

No....you didn't talk me out of anything I do plan to have a decent troller on the front too. I know I will be happy with this little 6hp once I get the hang of it all. I have worked on motorcycles for years and the little 2 stroker is not really that much different ...... and with the great service manual I bought I think I will be ok in time. I am just really new to boating and a little intimidated by the whole thing. To be really honest the thing that has me mot befuddled right now is learning to back the darn trailer! LOL!

 

[racerone]

That 6 HP motor is an excellent motor when in good condition !---It was made and perfected over 20 years of production.------Water in the lower unit can not be tolerated by the " too small a bearing surface on the driveshaft " when compared to earlier versions of this motor..---Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more ?

 

[Hartley's boat]

I changed the gear oil and after tuning on it for a while in the barrel I pulled it up and put it back on the bench and drained it again and there is water in the new gear oil. I need to seal that thing up. Is there any threads here that show a tutorial or anything? I did a search and didn't come up with anything. It is a 1970 Evinrude 6hp Fisherman.

 

[lindy46]

Sierra makes a seal kit for that motor, available here on Iboats Part number 18-2681. You'll have to drop the lower unit to do the job. Then split the gearcase (remove the skeg) to get to the seals in the gearcase head. There is an oil retainer and a large O-ring to replace. There is also a small o-ring on the pivot pin (the small Phillips head screw in the skeg. And a spaghetti seal between the skeg and the gearcase body. Clean that area well and use some flexible sealant like Permatex #2 to hold the spaghetti seal in the groove when you put it back together. Also apply a bead of sealant around each of the skeg bolts before re-installing. On the top-side, there is a driveshaft seal under the water pump housing. And there is an O-ring around the shift rod held in place by a brass bushing. You'll need a seal puller to remove the driveshaft seal and a special tool to drive the bushing out of the gearcase housing for the shift rod seal. The tool is a shouldered rod the same diameter as the shift rod where it passes through the bushing and then a slightly larger diameter so you can drive the busing out. Sounds pretty complicated, but with the proper tools it's a pretty straight-forward job.

 

[AlTn]

youtube...1.1969 6 hp. L/U W/P Service .....2.How to remove propshaft and W/P seals - 6 hp.E/J outboard...the first vid doesn't emphasize the fact that you may have to rotate the f/w in order for that pin in the upper d/s to align with a slot in the exhaust housing so the lower unit can separate from the crankshaft and slide down, pay attention to the orientation of that pin so you'll be close to the slot it has to fit through when you reattach the lower unit < that pin will have to be removed from the d/s in order for the water pump housing, impeller, etc to slide off the drive shaft >...2 nd. vid...I have used that method to remove those seals, just make certain that you use something for a fulcrum point other than either the gear head or the plate that holds the d/s seal as you do not want to damage either...both are expensive to replace.... another vid Vintage Outboard Lower Unit Gearcase Shift Rod Seal Replacement Johnson/ Evinrude is from another year and hp. but is essentially the same operation, but instead of the tool lindy is referring to he uses a tap to thread that brass bushing and then uses a bolt to pull it out...this renders that bushing less than optimal for reuse so if you go that route just order a new bushing... F_R may have some of the tools to remove that bushing if you want to PM him...I got one from him and it works like a charm on several hp. ranges....anyway..if you watch those vids and use your manual you should be able to complete the job...

 

[racerone]

The brass bushing is just a means to provide a space to trap the o-ring.--1950's technology and simple.-Even with 3 or 4 threads cut into it it will last forever !!