Water Pump Replacement Trouble

packman35

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 21, 2008
Messages
113
So we're at the lake this weekend and I notice yesterday when I started the motor that the pee stream was weak and then stopped altogether. I guess it was time to change the water pump with the new one that had been in my garage for a month!!

After dropping the LU I started to take off the old water pump and had three of the four bolts shear off. I was being careful because they felt awful tight but I still managed to break three. The bolts were seized into the aluminum tight. After I got done cussing, I looked at the old impeller and it looks fine. Hardly any wear. (I just bought the boat in January so I have no idea when/if it was last changed).

So two questions.

1. What else could make the pee stream stop if the impeller was OK? There was some grit in the housing but the screens were not blocked.

2. How on earth do I get the three bolts out that sheared off?

Thanks!!!
 

tx1961whaler

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 31, 2008
Messages
5,197
Re: Water Pump Replacement Trouble

So we're at the lake this weekend and I notice yesterday when I started the motor that the pee stream was weak and then stopped altogether. I guess it was time to change the water pump with the new one that had been in my garage for a month!!

After dropping the LU I started to take off the old water pump and had three of the four bolts shear off. I was being careful because they felt awful tight but I still managed to break three. The bolts were seized into the aluminum tight. After I got done cussing, I looked at the old impeller and it looks fine. Hardly any wear. (I just bought the boat in January so I have no idea when/if it was last changed).

So two questions.

1. What else could make the pee stream stop if the impeller was OK? There was some grit in the housing but the screens were not blocked.

2. How on earth do I get the three bolts out that sheared off?

Thanks!!!

1. The pee tube itself could be clogged.
2. If you can't soak them in penetrant and get a set of Vise-grips on them to turn them, then a.) weld a bolt on the end of them if there is enough sticking up out of the case. b.) drill them out, use a cobalt drill bit and use the water pump housing as a drill guide. Don't use an EZ-out extractor. They will likely just break off and you'll have a bigger mess.
 

R.Johnson

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 24, 2003
Messages
4,446
Re: Water Pump Replacement Trouble

One of the men that posts here said that he had very good luck with a mixture of 50-50 auto trasmission fluid, and acetone you use as a penetrant. Build a dam arounf the broken bolt with modeling clay, and let it sit overnight Heat the aluminum around the broken stud with a propane torch, and turn them out with a vice grip.working back,and forthThe bolts in these engine's are made from stainless steel. Over time they will be effected by hydrogen-embrittlement. If it come's to the point that you have to drill on the bolt's get the best drill bit you can find, such as greenfield. When drilling into that stainless steel, you must keep the drill cutting. If you let the drill spin, it will work harden the surface, and you will play heck cutting it with anthing. Do not use an easy out what ever you do.
 

packman35

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 21, 2008
Messages
113
Re: Water Pump Replacement Trouble

Thanks for the replies. I am going to try the long soak with penetrating oil followed by heat.

One quick question - is there anything around the water pump bolts (crankshaft seals, etc.) that could be hurt by the heat? I don't want to solve one problem and cause another.
 
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