Welding on or repairing a prop?

jww69

Cadet
Joined
Sep 15, 2008
Messages
18
I've repaired a broken blade on my prop, about 1" on the tip was broke. I welded a piece of 1/8" sheet material aluminum in it and then worked it down to match the rest of the prop. Will the diffrence in the cast and the sheet aluminum make a diffrence?
 

Euro95

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 3, 2008
Messages
36
Re: Welding on or repairing a prop?

You probably noticed that it vibrated with the hole in it, it can't get much worse if ya did it right.
 

Expidia

Commander
Joined
Aug 26, 2006
Messages
2,368
Re: Welding on or repairing a prop?

Why bother with all the welding and sanding, painting only to have it unbalanced and vibrating.

I send my props here: http://www.soderbloom.com/proprepair.html

Have used them twice already last season. Came back in a week or sooner.

Flat rate repair for my sized prop was $28 plus $10 flat rate shipping. I snapped one ear in half hitting a submerged stump last season. Prop came back like brand new!

I know I'm going to nick one up again anyway because when I'm on the Hudson River where I go often there is always floating debris that seem to hang out just below the waterline. Maybe larger boats push it out of the way. My smaller boat seems sucks it right into the prop.
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Welding on or repairing a prop?

How do you think the prop shop repairs them? They weld a piece back on and re-curve the blade. The only thing you don't have is a pitch block to pound the blade back into proper curvature. However, if it is a smaller prop and you took care, comparing the blades as you worked, you can "eyeball" it almost as good as new.
 

jww69

Cadet
Joined
Sep 15, 2008
Messages
18
Re: Welding on or repairing a prop?

Thanks for the input. The prop turned out great.
 

reelfishin

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
3,050
Re: Welding on or repairing a prop?

I can't count how many I've done that way, on a smaller motor, there's not much noticeable difference in the metals. On a larger motor that makes more power, it may be a bigger concern. The bottom line is that its far better off than it was with the chunk out of it.

I rarely send a prop out for repair, if a prop is bad enough that it needs to be sent out repair, it's most likely going to need a new hub as well, so the cost of a new hub plus the $39 flat rate repair makes for an $80 plus trip to the prop shop, plus shipping. I've bought new props for less than that on eBay.

I have taken junk props and used them for parts, often cutting off a blade from a badly damaged prop and affixing it to replace a damaged blade on a better prop. The good thing about aluminum is that it welds well, but it does show signs of softening or weakening when you weld. The proper procedure is to re anneal the whole prop in an oven but I rarely do, and I'd venture to guess that many prop shops don't either. What it boils down to is that the weld often can cool faster than any hydrogen introduced in the welding process due to contaminants or humidity can harden or make the welded metal brittle.

I have an old 5 hp Sear Gamefisher motor on which I gas welded a new blade to the old two blade aluminum prop many years ago long before I could afford a proper welder. Its been fine ever since even though it's hit its fair share of stumps over the years.
 
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