What Do i Have?

[nicks66]

So this is my Second boat purchase this year. The owner said it was a 1976 reinell i haven't found a hin on it yet. I looked at 3 other boat before buying this one they were all mercruiser strait 6s and all three were cracked and had water in cylinders such a shame. Anyway i've learned since my first buy to be more thorough in my inspection from tons of research on here. I did a pressure test on motor and all had 120 ish. it wasn't getting any spark i knew that heading into it . I have ordered the pertronic 1165 ignitor for delco 6 cylinder odd fire to get rid of the points. i was going to get one of theses cid electronics 12398998p shift assist switch for the diode fix thing. However i do not see one on my engine. Shouldn't i have one? The omc tag says i have a 1970 155 hp engine the block numbers say its a v6 buick 225. aAso i can't find a pic of my boat for the year the owner said on the web so is it a 1976? I still plane on working on the other boat just want to get out on the water a little faster. I paid $500 for it so i'm not out tons of money. so do i need to install a shift switch? If anyone knows of some good threads on this set up please point me in the right direction. Here are some picks i haven't done much on it yet i know i gotta get the fuel pump lines and tank some love and the carb check outdrive fluids etc. trying to get spark first.





[h=1][/h] will this work for testing











any info on these?





could i have a pieced together engine?






any cleaning advice







Sorry for all the pics. Thanks for all the help so far on the other project.

 

[southkogs]

Welcome aboard:

Your engine tag makes the engine out to be a 1970 electric shift model. Outdrive makes sense against that. Hull could just as well be a 1970 as a 1976, which would explain why there's no HIN.

Before you do too much else, what kind of shape is the hull in? It looks pretty decent. After that, I would make sure the stern drive is free/turns. You'll want to get a manual, and look at how to disassemble the drive. You'll need to test out the shift coils which are electric, not mechanical. If you wanna' get the engine crankin' first, I would remove the stern drive and just solve one side of the equation at a time.

Cool ole' boat ... but you need to go into it eyes wide open: it's an antique drive that not many people will want to work on.

 

[Chad Flaugher]

I smile every time I see an 'ol stringer... (In a good way)

 

[nicks66]

Welcome aboard:

Your engine tag makes the engine out to be a 1970 electric shift model. Outdrive makes sense against that. Hull could just as well be a 1970 as a 1976, which would explain why there's no HIN.

Before you do too much else, what kind of shape is the hull in? It looks pretty decent. After that, I would make sure the stern drive is free/turns. You'll want to get a manual, and look at how to disassemble the drive. You'll need to test out the shift coils which are electric, not mechanical. If you wanna' get the engine crankin' first, I would remove the stern drive and just solve one side of the equation at a time.

Cool ole' boat ... but you need to go into it eyes wide open: it's an antique drive that not many people will want to work on.

will the shift coils be affected by the new ignition system i ordered? The drive turns freely it will slowly spin while cranking not sure if that is normal tho. the hull seams in good shape no soft spots and the transome looks good aswell. I am looking for a manual also. the trim seems to be stuck or non working it clicks when i flip the switch but that is it any advice on that? and thank you for the quick response.

 

[southkogs]

will the shift coils be affected by the new ignition system i ordered?

No. They shouldn't be. The switch for your shift is in the remote up by the helm. 12v through the wire and that lights up the coil. Make sure you have Type C gear lube in the lower gear case. Doesn't matter for the upper gear case.

The drive turns freely it will slowly spin while cranking not sure if that is normal tho.

The prop should spin freely unless you're in gear, and it will rotate some when the engine is running. The entire upper gear case is spinnin' when the engine is going, so if you're able to crank the engine over - for the moment, assume that you've got a free running upper gear case.

the hull seams in good shape no soft spots and the transome looks good aswell.

That's good. Transom isn't as important with a Stringer because the drive doesn't actually exert any real force on it. It's a good looking boat. My last one was a '72 and I really enjoyed it. Was out on the lake with a friend of mine who has the boat now last week ... now I kinda' miss it

the trim seems to be stuck or non working it clicks when i flip the switch but that is it any advice on that?

Trim (if you have it) is at the front of the engine. Tilt is at the back of the engine. Stringers are designed to run tilted full down - you can't trim with that tilt motor (though you can put along in shallow water drive if you keep the RPMs low). If we're talking about the tilt, and you're getting a click when you hit the switch - I would suggest you probably need to pull that tilt motor and have it rebuilt. It can be a real rib buster gettin' back to it ... and be careful: the bolts that hold it in place are also the ones that hold the motor together. There is also a hammer coupling behind that motor that will want to fall out and go down into your bilge ... don't miss it, you don't want to try to replace it.

and thank you for the quick response.

Glad to help the little I can.

 

[nicks66]

Whoo Hoo Got The motor Running After Pretty Much rewiring from the plug to engine it had been spliced so much that i had to start fresh.Got the points conversion done set timing off number 1 acording to manual it was way off. took fuel pump apart gaskets looked pretty new maybe was recently rebuilt .Got the tilt to work also. Now i'm pretty excited and i at the same time i'm like what do i do next. A few questions.

Do they still make the filters for the old style fuel pumps with the glass bowl? And i have been researching on a flush kit for running the engine on land. The boat came with a adapter i've only been able to find old articles on google selling the device no real info its called testit flushette model number 930tfo tempo products. I did run the engine for about a minute at a time with it on there. it kinda seems i need to plug the hole under the screen so as the water does not just run out does this seem right? also are there any sure signs that my impeller is working like water coming out a pee hole or something? I do plan on replacing it just to know that it is new and good. But would like to run engine to properly set timing with light and test alternator. I have some pics of the flusher.








I have seen some people also make a flusher on the pivot cap with a fitting and some jb weld any info on this?

Thanks for the help and wealth of info on this site.

 

[VE8EV]

That's a nice looking old boat! The drive is a 1970 OMC 155hp. If you go to the Evinrude parts site you can find the exploded drawings and parts diagram for your motor and drive. On the left of their parts page (underneath 'Literature') click on the 'Evinrude' dropdown and change it to "Sterndrive". Some of the OEM parts are still available but once you know the original part numbers you can cross them to Sierra, Mallory, or GLM parts. Failing that you can try part numbers on eBay.

That old flushing adapter looks like it will work fine. Water comes pouring out of lot of places on these drives, just make sure it's getting up to the motor before you run it for too long. Get a service manual (Seloc brand is ok), you will need it.

Keep us posted!

 

[southkogs]

That pivot cap flusher you've seen was an option from OMC. You can still find them. I've never seen the one you have ... Kinda' cool. Just make sure you've got enough water pressure to flood the drive.