What is the value of this motor?

[Luposian]

It came with a project boat (Citation, I think) I just bought for $275 (delivered). It’s in bad shape (seized), water got in the engine, spark plugs are missing, carb cover is off, the carb is taped over, a couple spark plugs are laying around, rusted to death, etc.

I’m not planning on keeping the motor (especially in this condition!), unless it’s worth fixing.

 

[aimlow]

Zero

 

[jbcurt00]

Zero

Or $4/100lbs locally to me in scrap....

 

[Luposian]

That doesn’t say much. Do you mean it has no value, now OR repaired? It’s a worthless, unreliable engine, even when it was new? Is it worth repairing? What is it worth in operational condition?

 

[Scott06]

He means it is worthless junk in present condition due to water intrusion and missing/damaged parts. It is a 2.5l/120 hp, that and its bigger brother 3.0/140 hp are some of the most reliable engines made, when taken care of. In this case you could try to rebuild this but I doubt it would be worth it, I'd bet the block is cracked from lack of winterization... I assume if you are buying a project boat you are trying to do this inexpensively? Best bet would be to find a used 3.0 from pulleys to propeller out of a boat with a rotten hull. Otherwise you can buy a new base engine for about $3k, reman for about $2200.

 

[harringtondav]

Maybe assess the rest of your $275 boat to be sure it's structure is not rotted before you plunge in deeper.

The serial no. comes back as120 GM 153 I/ L4 1979-1982. Major engine part availability is dicey, but some parts are available. Pressure test it to see if the block and heads are cracked. If so, junk it. If not, do an autopsy. I'm guessing Scott06 gives the best solution.

 

[achris]

Merc finished with the 120/2.5Litre engine in 1989. Even running, it's value is very low. Even if you plowed $4,000 into that engine and got it running 'just like new', it would still have a very low resale value. When perfectly good 140/3litre engines can be bought for not very much, why would anyone buy a 120? If you refurbed the boat as well, maybe you'd get your money back, but even that's unlikely.

Resell the $275 boat and find something that will have a resale value once it's done up and running.

Now, as far as the 120/2.5 engine goes, plenty reliable when they running, but at that age... Plenty to replace the get it running, and any 'secondhand' parts you find will also be old... Not worth the trouble.

Look for something with a 'Gen II' in it. Post 1991...

Chris......

 

[Luposian]

Thank you. Now THAT was informative and helpful.
:-D

I’m looking at doing an electric conversion, so this motor’s running condition isn’t important. But, it would be nice if I could get it running again. Just because. But not worth it, if it’s gonna cost thousands.

 

[achris]

Electric conversion.. NOW my ears are up!

I watched a Chevrolet Bolt electric motor and transmission tear-down a few days ago. That's a 170lb 200hp power plant... And not very big. I looked at it, and the conversion to run in a boat would be dead simple. But the battery pack. Problematic. The weight for one, and lots of volts (and amps) and sea water.... Never ends well... But, food for thought.

Please elucidate on what you're thinking....

Chris............

 

[Luposian]

My reasoning is simplicity. No gas. No oil. No possible fires or explosions. No pollution. Quiet. Maintenance would be much simpler.

And if the weight of the engine/gas tank, etc. is heavier than an electric motor and batteries, I’ll get a lighter boat out of it as well.

I'm not taking this boat to the harbor. It’s going to Patagonia or Parker Canyon Lake or thereabouts near where we live in Sierra Vista, AZ. And, as it’s my first boat, I’ll be content if I can putter around at 5-7 kts. (top speed; if I want to run down my batteries in a hurry) given the fact I doubt I can get much for a $4K-$5K budget).

 

[achris]

My reasoning is simplicity. No gas. No oil. No possible fires or explosions. No pollution. Quiet. Maintenance would be much simpler.

And if the weight of the engine/gas tank, etc. is heavier than an electric motor and batteries, I’ll get a lighter boat out of it as well.

I'm not taking this boat to the harbor. It’s going to Patagonia or Parker Canyon Lake or thereabouts near where we live in Sierra Vista, AZ. And, as it’s my first boat, I’ll be content if I can putter around at 5-7 kts. (top speed; if I want to run down my batteries in a hurry) given the fact I doubt I can get much for a $4K-$5K budget).

Which power plant are you looking at? Remember that most car power plants are going to be more powerful than the 2.5L/120hp engine you will be removing. I have no idea the size of the boat, but I'm guessing in the 16 to 18 foot area, so with a 150hp electric motor, you could look at anything up to 35 knots! To run around at 5-7 knots, with even a small battery pack, you'd be going all day...

Chris.........

 

[Scott Danforth]

if your converting to electric, you want to read this thread - Bayliner converted with 147hp motor. 25 mile range, 12 hours to charge

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...o-all-electric

as far as the 2.5 liter, you could strip it down to use the block as a mooring anchor. as a motor value, what ever mixed scrap is going for. even perfectly running, only worth a few hundred

you can find running 3.0 with drives in free boats on on trailers on craigslist every day.

 

[Scott06]

I guess I was wrong on the low buck approach if you're converting to electric.... please post your progress. As mentioned definetly check the stringers and transom before you put a lot of effort into it. Regardless of gas or electric, looks like this boat sat uncovered, which is a recipient for floor, stringer, and transom rot

 

[Luposian]

Yeah, and it’s covered in snow now... which will melt and get into the engine. Good thing the boat is tilted and the drain plug is open. :-D

 

[Scott Danforth]

Yeah, and it’s covered in snow now... which will melt and get into the engine. Good thing the boat is tilted and the drain plug is open. :-D

its been that way for years. I bet that motor has been rusted tight for at least 10 years

 

[Luposian]

I’m actually trying to get some history on the boat, but might take awhile. The guy that sold it to me says it was running not that long ago (a year or two at the most), but water got in the carb air cover. It’s been neglected ever since.

 

[Luposian]

Dunno. Can only know what the guy selling it told me and he said it was running 6mo - 1 yr. ago and only recently got water in the engine through the carb.

 

[Luposian]

I’m trying to figure out what to hook the engine hoist to and what to unbolt, to pull the engine out of the boat. I know I have to remove the stern drive first. Here are some pics of the engine:

 

[Bondo]

I’m trying to figure out what to hook the engine hoist to and what to unbolt, to pull the engine out of the boat.

Ayuh,.... The forward liftin' lug is in yer 1st picture, 'n I believe the aft liftin' lug is just outa yer 3rd picture, to the port-side,.....

After the drive is off, there's the lag bolts holdin' the forward motor mount into the hull,.....
'n just under the aft end of the steerin' cable, you'll see 2, 1/2" bolts headed straight down,.... that's the aft mountin' bolts,....

With the wirin', 'n plumbin' unhooked, lift the motor straight up,....

 

[Luposian]

I see no lifting lug/metal strap on the port side. I looked. All I see are two rusty bolt holes, as shown in the 2nd pic. I assume I need to find a bolt that will fit one or both of them?