What model of OMC Outdrive do I have?

[southkogs]

No teeth on your prop. You have a pin through the hub. Your shaft should be smooth on an electric shift.

 

[TDiniz]

OK, I can't seem to find a new prop anywhere. I'll go check the boat wreckers. As for the impeller location in the upper gear case, I read that I take the lower unit off, and there should be bolts into the upper and that is the impeller housing? Should the impeller shaft spin in neutral? And when it did shoot water in gear it just bubbled over, I would expect it to shoot a couple feet in the air for the RPM at which that impeller would spin, right?

 

[southkogs]

I recommend that you remove your drive to change the impeller, but you can do it without removing the drive (you'll be working on your back up into the drive).

The impeller is at the bottom of the upper gear case, and the lower unit has to come off to get to it. If the drive is still connected to the boat, then the impeller shaft won't spin once you put it back into the gear case. If you remove the drive, then you can spin that shaft with some effort (probably have to spin it from the ball gear though).

I'm not sure what you're asking about water shooting. I get a slight tell tale stream from the pivot caps when I'm running on the hose, but I find the Stringers to be kinda' messy with water. Once it's in the lake though, I get some bubbling behind the boat from the exhaust and that's it. I can't think of any time I've had water shooting "feet" in any direction.

 

[TDiniz]

Oh, I had the hose off of the connection at the intermediate housing to see if water would come up, and all I got was a bubble when revved high in gear, which I didn't think was enough to get to the water pump at the front of the engine.

 

[southkogs]

Oh ... gotcha': really the impeller in the stringer is more of a water "mover" than a pump. The drive is designed to be completely submerged, so when you run on the hose any water pressure will go both up and down the line - to the engine and the impeller respectively. So, your hose should have been pushing water up, right?

No way to put the electric shift on muffs.

 

[TDiniz]

I don't think I have it hooked up to the water correctly. I took the hose that connects the engine to the intermediate housing off and put a garden hose end in it and ran water like that, I tested the impeller at the water by putting the drive down and turning it on, but as I said it would only give water in gear and the tiniest bit at that.

 

[southkogs]

This is an old photo, but you can see the hose connection on the pivot cap for the drive:


If you don't have one of those caps, you could potentially rig a flush kit to the input side of the thermostat housing.

 

[TDiniz]

No Title

The previous owner was hooking it up to the hose in the picture below, and I just went with it thinking it was normal.

 

[southkogs]

Weird ... almost looks like it would be pushin' water backwards through the system. Do you have the hose hookup on the pivot cap? If not, look at THIS post by Howard Sterndrive.

 

[TDiniz]

What is the capped water hookup on the port side for? My waterpump has a capped end on it too. Is my cooling system hooked up wrong?

 

[southkogs]

Are you closed cooling?

The cap on the starboard side of my drive is to hook up a hose - sorta' like you'd use muffs on a modern drive.

 

[TDiniz]

I'm talking about the plug/cap on the intermediate housing to the right of the hose in that picture. There's a matching one on the water pump.

 

[southkogs]

Okay ... sorry. that's why I was asking about closed cooling. Yes, if you're not a closed cooling system (and i'm not sure about it then) that should be the water line going back out. What's going on up by your thermostat?

 

[TDiniz]

No Title

Here's my setup:

 

[southkogs]

Well ... it looks right up front. I'm not sure about how the 120 goes together. I'll try to do some lookin' a little later. Do you have a manual for it?

 

[TDiniz]

No manual yet, I'm on the fence about selling it and fixing it, and what you tell me about my cooling system will be my deciding factor, if this whole time I have not been cooling it, I am going to part the boat out. If everything is fine and it needs an impeller and clutch spring, I will fix it.

 

[southkogs]

Okay - according to the diagrams I have on the early 120s, you're setup right. Water path looks to be going right where it's supposed to.

 

[TDiniz]

That's great news, I'll order the manual next Friday. Hopefully the shipping to Canada doesn't kill me.

 

[hurricane84]

Long time lurker, first time poster and first time owner of a vintage prop drive I/O. This thread has been most helpful for me, as I too have a 1984 Hurricane Cypress 140 I'm tinkering with. Like the OP, I had a challenging time finding the right parts for my float or the places to get them at decent prices. Thankfully, I did find a number of online sources that carry pretty much everything we'll need to keep our floats on the water, so hopefully these will be helpful.

Of course, there is the iboats.com parts availability on this site also.

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/index.php

https://www.perfprotech.com/

http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/

http://www.sterndrive.info/index.html


Thanks to everyone who've posted great info in this thread.

 

[TDiniz]

So when I watch outboards at the lake, they shoot water out of a little hole in their drive system, my stringer has a hole for this, but nothing comes out at the lake or when I hook up the hose, is water supposed to come out there? I am still in the process of fixing my impeller area, but I thought I'd ask about this in case something else is wrong.