What paint and primer for aluminum 68 Crestliner

[utfyrfytr]

Last fall I bought an aluminum 68 Crestliner to restore, I have removed everything from both the outside and inside. I had the outside glass media blasted and I am anxiously awaiting for spring to arrive so I can continue the fun. While I am waiting I would like to know what type of paint and primer I am going to have to get. The boat will probably only be used only 6-12 times during the summer and will not be left on the water overnight or for extended periods of time. The media blasting removed everything down to bare metal on the outside. On the inside I plan on doing a light sanding a good cleaning and then repainting it. Will I need to do a primer there also before painting? I have read threads on here about using Rustoleum paint and primer. Would that be acceptable for the limited type of usage that the boat will get? I am going to be doing this outside and remember seeing a thread showing a paint booth made from plastic tarps, I have not been able to find it again so does anyone have any pictures or ideas for setting up some protection to help control the amount of dust and or bugs?
I have some pictures of the boat and the media blasting if anyone would like to see them. Thanks for your help.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup, I think Rustoleum or any Acrylic enamel paint will do nicely. I would use the hardener as well. PVC or 2x2's will make a nice and easy structure for a quick and easy paint structure. 2 or 3 box fans will do the trick for moving the paint. I did all mine in the garage and outside on calm days. Worked out fine. This should get you started.

***Make sure All the Bare aluminum gets a light coat of Self Etching primer with a follow up of Bare Metal primer. VERY IMPORTANT!!!

Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!

 

[gm280]

Yes as WOG stated, Get the bare aluminum primed as soon as you can because otherwise aluminum will start corroding instantly. Not rust, but certainly aluminum oxide. JMHO!

 

[utfyrfytr]

Thanks for the info guys. I had the boat media blasted 1st of last month and did not know about the corroding issue. Priming is probably not an option now since it is currently 18 degrees and 12 inches of snow outside. Is there anything I can do that would offer some protection until the weather warms?

 

[gm280]

Thanks for the info guys. I had the boat media blasted 1st of last month and did not know about the corroding issue. Priming is probably not an option now since it is currently 18 degrees and 12 inches of snow outside. Is there anything I can do that would offer some protection until the weather warms?

Not to worry that much. Yes most any bare metal starts corroding as soon as air hits it. With ferric/iron type metals, it is rust. With aluminum it is aluminum oxide. But it won't eat through the aluminum in a few months. I would wait until the weather is presentable and then wash the hull with some TSP and then an etching or Zinc Chromate type primer as the first coat. Then follow on with whatever type primer is suitable for the type top coat paint you will be using. All will be good. :thumb:

 

[utfyrfytr]

gm, I was just reading your trailer and motor rebuild threads and I must say you are an artist and apparently a pretty good mechanic too. I am impressed. Thanks for the info on painting my boat. If it comes out half as good as your trailer I'll be happy.

WOG, are the paint containers, in your "Paint your boat with tractor paint", quart sized cans? Also I am assuming that saying one can should do two coats on a 16' boat you are referring to the outside or inside only. Is that correct?
Do I need to do clear coat over the paint?
Thanks again to both of you.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup,Quarts! 2 quarts thinned will do the outside of the hull. Don't recommend clearcoat. The hardener yields a high gloss durable finish that really doesn't need the clear coat. This makes it much easier to do repairs when needed.

 

[utfyrfytr]

WOG, sorry to keep bothering you but I keep coming up with these questions. How many coats of the paint do I need to do? Thanks again and stick around because I am sure I'll have more.

 

[Woodonglass]

Keep em comin'!!! I recommend 2 coats of primer and a minimum of 2 coats of Color. The 2 quarts will give you that. Remember you'll be thinning it so you'll actually end up with about 5 quarts of paint . 2 1/2 quarts per coat should do the trick. It did for me.

 

[gm280]

gm, I was just reading your trailer and motor rebuild threads and I must say you are an artist and apparently a pretty good mechanic too. I am impressed. Thanks for the info on painting my boat. If it comes out half as good as your trailer I'll be happy.

WOG, are the paint containers, in your "Paint your boat with tractor paint", quart sized cans? Also I am assuming that saying one can should do two coats on a 16' boat you are referring to the outside or inside only. Is that correct?
Do I need to do clear coat over the paint?
Thanks again to both of you.

Thanks utfyrfytr for the kind words. And you can make your project come out equally nice. Just follow the suggestions on these forums from others that were just like you wanting to know how. WOG has done a lot of boating projects and knows his stuff. I tend to lean towards auto type finishes. But either will work and make your project look amazing.

One thing I will state, if you are seriously wanting an amazing finish, the effort you put into the prep work is the answer. The better you want the final finish, the better you do the prep work. No paint can cover over scratches, nicks, and dents. That will never happen. So put the effort in to the prep work and the actual painting will be a piece of cake...honestly! :thumb:

 

[Woodonglass]

One thing I will state, if you are seriously wanting an amazing finish, the effort you put into the prep work is the answer. The better you want the final finish, the better you do the prep work. No paint can cover over scratches, nicks, and dents. That will never happen. So put the effort in to the prep work and the actual painting will be a piece of cake...honestly! :thumb:

This ^^^ is SOOOO...TRUE!!!! Also The acrylic enamel paint with the added Hardener basically is an automotive type paint. Albeit the OLD style paint but still a very durable and long lasting finish for a lot less money. Being a C.O.B. I tend to like the less expensive methods especially when they work so well. The PPG paints and other urethane paints ARE excellent paints and DO yield extremely fine finishes but you pay the price for them.

 

[utfyrfytr]

Great advice, thanks guys

 

[utfyrfytr]

WOG, My boat is very straight with the exception of one dent on the port side right at the transom. I thought about trying to pop it out but I am sure it will not be perfect. Is there a body filler that will work with aluminum boats and water exposure?

 

[DeepBlue2010]

3M platinum plus premium body filler will yield excellent results. J-B Weld will do a good job also but apply DX503 from PPG (available at your auto body supply stores such as Wesco) first if the bar metal is showing. Either way, wash first with warm water and good dish soap then wash with DX533 (again, if bar metal is showing)

 

[gm280]

Post a picture or three of your dent and then we can talk how to fix, repair it. If it is merely very small issue, yes there are filers to do that effort. However, if it is large enough, then other methods as well as fillers will be needed. JMHO!

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, pics will help determine proper methods. My neighbors is a Paint and Body man. One of the Best in the Metropolitan Area. Been at it for over 30 years. He swears by this stuff for an aluminum filler...He says prep is the key to a good bond and to thin it a bit to get it to a better spreading consistency.

 

[utfyrfytr]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll get a couple of pictures in the next day or so. Still pretty stormy here.

 

[utfyrfytr]

Ok, I'm going to try to load some photos so you can see the dent and also the boat I'm working on. The dent is about 10"X7" and 3/8" deep at the deepest spot. In thinking about this I don't want to try and pound it out any for fear of the corner seam cracking. Also the media blasting has given the aluminum a very rough surface that is going to have to be smoothed or the dent repair is going to look terrible. Can I do a primer coat, or two, and then sand it smooth? I don't want to remove anymore of the aluminum. I didn't realize how aggressive the glass blasting would be. Anyway enough questions for now, let's see if I can load these pictures. Computers and me sometimes do not get along.

 

[gm280]

utfyrfytr, From what I can see, that dent really isn't that bad. And I am thinking that a little push from the inside out could even pop it out totally. Hard to tell from just those pictures. But I would try that before doing anything else. You may surprise yourself and it pops out nicely. Seem it happen to other dents similar to yours.

As for the rough finish now, once you shoot your primer, it will sand smoothly and the rough finish will be gone. But the rough finish will actual help the primer grip better and it will help with making it look great again.

What type priming and primers are you looking at?

 

[Woodonglass]

I'm not a "Tinner" but from what I gather Most of them would consider that " a Battle Scar" and not worry about it. If it bugs ya then do the metal work necessary to repair it and move on.