what year/hp evinrude has my neighbor given me

[brokeboater]

my next door neighbor gave me an old boat/trailer/motor that has been taking up space in his yard. it has an evenrude "fastwin" engine on it. he knows nothing about the engine or how long since it last ran (long story). the serial number is 18302E-E11667. Can anyone offer any info on this engine? ie. horse power, fuel/oil ratio, best type spark plugs, are manuals still available, etc. <br />i did check compression on it. looks to be about 50 psi per cyl. using my "harbor freight" compression tester. haven't checked the spark out yet. got to get my buddy to stick his finger in the plug wire while i pull the cord. ha, just kidding. thanks a bunch in advance

 

[dk990496]

Re: what year/hp evinrude has my neighbor given me

18302E is a 1963 18HP

 

[bubbakat]

Re: what year/hp evinrude has my neighbor given me

This is what it should look like<br /><br /> http://mitglied.lycos.de/old_omc/e_1963/seite_1415.jpg <br />That engine use a fuel mix of 24:1<br />here is a good mix guide<br /> web page <br />Champion plugs J4C gaped at 30<br />points set at 20<br />Yes the manuel can still be found right here on the board at the link below<br /> http://www.outboardrepairs.com/manuals/

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: what year/hp evinrude has my neighbor given me

Oil mix is orginally 24:1 87 octane gas to TC-W3 rated outboard oil. Check out the Oil mix FAQ in the FAQ forum for some details.<br />Plugs should be Champion J4C gapped at .030". The original J4J is no longer made.<br />L/U oil is OMC/BRP HiVis or SAE 90W outboard gearcase oil. <br /><br />Ignition parts, carb kit, and water pump are actually pretty cheap as far as outboard parts go. 50psi per hole isn't so hot though. Is it a push-in or screw in type checker? How many cranks did you give it? Have you ever used it in anything else?<br />Mabey it's just a stuck ring or two from carbon, but you'll want to get that compression up before throwing money at it.<br /><br />EDIT: Bubbakat posted while I was typing and gave you some great information. Pardon the post collision, Bubbakat!

 

[brokeboater]

Re: what year/hp evinrude has my neighbor given me

thanks for the replies. man a 1963? it actually looks pretty good for that age (not that 41 is old, i'm 42). it does look like the lower unit has been replaced as it is a different color. what really surprised me is all bolts i've turned have come right out except the ones that hold it to the transom.<br />never thought about points. my other boat has a power pack of some sort. may sound stupid but where are the points located? <br />the lower unit oil was pretty cruddy and had a little water in it . based on what the gasket on the drain screw looked like they may be the culprit for the water.<br />my compression gauge is a screw in type. not of the best quality either. i have used it on another engine. i figure it would show a major difference between cylinders if not real accurate otherwise. what should the compression be?<br />i figure i will try to hear it run before i spend any money. i'm sure a carb rebuild and water pump will be in line but shouldn't it at least startup? man that is a lot of questions...

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: what year/hp evinrude has my neighbor given me

man that is a lot of questions...

We're just getting started. <br /><br />The entire ignition system is up underneath the flywheel. It consists of two ignition coils, two condensors, two points and two spark plug wires. It is very simple and works very well. The only big problem is the need to periodically (~100hrs) adjust the points.<br />There are probably two wires that drop down from up under the flywheel. These are used to stop the engine. When they're connected together, niether cylinder will produce a spark. When they're apart, you get sparks. They may be hooked up to various cutout switches, etc.<br />The ignition coils are a weak point, due to their (low) quality of construction. When checking spark, ensure you are capable of drawing an arc 3/8" long. If just using the spark plug gap to check, you'll miss testing the most common way these fail (arc over).<br />More often than not, lower unit leaks are the result of those gaskets. But if you are into resealing it, it's not a big deal. Actually, it's one of the easiest to fix lower units ever made. Not particulairly a 'performance' one though, being fairly massive and with all those screw holes, etc.<br />For compression, we're hoping to see around 90psi, but you're right - it depends on the guage a lot. Did it seem to 'read low' on the other engine too?<br /><br />Also, it seems to me it was '63 or '64 when they changed the carb over from having two adjustments on it (high and low speed) to having only one (low speed only). Which have you got?

 

[brokeboater]

Re: what year/hp evinrude has my neighbor given me

thanks paul. how difficult is the flywheel to remove? special pullers? <br />i think the gauge probably is a little low. not 40 lbs. low though. compression was checked with one quik pull of the rope and pretty much dry cylinders.<br />there are several adjustments. seems i remember a high and low speed adjustment(engine is out in shed and it's past my bedtime). i'll check it out tomorrow and get back on that. is the carb pretty easy to rebuild? i've done a v-6 merc and v-6 johnson (with a manual)and they were very simple.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: what year/hp evinrude has my neighbor given me

Good - 1 quick pull is usually insufficient to take a compression check. More like 3 or four (or until it stops climbing). I expect you'll find that your compression is really higher. I think it's safe to assume you'll have enough to get it to run.<br /><br />The flywheel comes off using a special puller that acts on the three bolt holes in the center of it. A beefy but inexpensive automotive harmonic balancer puller and three 1/4"-20tpi bolts around 3 or 4" long works quite well though. You want to get some decent bolts for it, ideally Grade 8. The bolts that come with the puller will not likely be the right ones. You'll need some way to hold the flywheel to remove and later install the flywheel nut. In the interests of saving a buck until you know that it runs, the flywheel nut torque is 45ft/lbs. It is important to torque this nut accurately.<br />The carb is simple enought to rebuild. Certainly no more difficult than the V-6 ones - and there's only one! Make a special trip to the dealer for a carb kit - the OEM one comes with a plastic float to replace the troublesome cork one that's undoubtedly still in your carb. It's like a dollar more than the aftermarket one that has no float.

 

[Thompy_04]

Re: what year/hp evinrude has my neighbor given me

I have a 1960 18 horse Johnyrude that sounds like it is similar to your motor. After about a month or so and some sweat I got her purring. The points, condensors, and coils are very VERY simple to change out really nothing to them. The carb was also just as easy, getting it dialed in and opperating correctly is another thing. The flywheel as everyone before me has described isn't that hard either, just a couple of easy to find tools and your in good shape. If you have any trouble with this motor, check out my post Johnson 18 Horsepower Troubles and you will find the outs and ins of this motor (depending on if they're similar). If they are I'm sure that post will help, it covers everything from a stuck flywheel, to a "no spark" condition. Good luck, these motors are real gems.

 

[brokeboater]

Re: what year/hp evinrude has my neighbor given me

more info guys! got this jewel to running over the weekend. got some questions too.<br />in a previous post it was indicated fuel/oil ratio is 24:1. I have also read that using modern tcw3 it may be ok to use 50:1. opinions?? the epa will be after me the way this thing smokes at 24 to 1. <br />next question is about water pump. i was running it in a tub of water. seems water pumping was intermittant at best. after i got it running i decided to put a impeller in it. still had intermittant water pumping. dealer didn't have gasket that goes under housing so i used rtv silicon. could this be a problem? the only gasket was between housing and plate. is there supposed to be one below the plate? thanks

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: what year/hp evinrude has my neighbor given me

Good to here it running. <br /><br />I personally don't see any reason why you could not to run the post-'61 18hp engine at less than 24:1. For details have a look at the Oil Mix FAQ. But if you want to reduce smoking, you might want to try a synthetic oil. Some people here report a lot less smoke with it.<br />There's no gasket to go underneath the plate. The manual calls for sealant to be put there (like you did) but many people don't. In fact, I rather doubt OMC used sealant there.<br />The original water pump does not use a gasket between the water pump and wear plate. I suspect you're using an updated pump? You shouldn't expect to see a whole lot of water coming out the back until the engine warms up a bit and the thermostat opens. Are you running the engine in water deep enough to submerge the pump? At idle, it needs to be underwater to work properly.

 

[brokeboater]

Re: what year/hp evinrude has my neighbor given me

don't know about an updated pump. i just replaced the impeller. pump housing had some pitting inside but nothing real deep ot too rough. hmmmm....not sure if i had the pump submerged or not. that will need checking. <br />i forgot a couple of things to ask. it looks as if the prop shaft seal is leaking profusly. i replaced the drain and upper vent gaskets. so replacing seals/reworking the l/u isn't a big deal? <br />also when i move the throttle back to "stop" should the engine cutoff? i thought that was what the push button cutoff was for.