When do you change the water pump?

[Captain Thad]

I just bought a 1992 Lowe 1605 with a 1988 Johnson 40 HP motor. The guy I bought it from said he replaced the waterpump 3 years ago. I have had this out on the lake 1 time and it ran great. I am brand new to boats and was wondering when is the time to change the waterpump? How can you tell if the pump is going bad?

Also is this something i can do? I am an electromechanical technician by trade and have stuff torn apart extensively on machines at work. I know this is not a machine at work. OR is it just cheaper to have it done?

Thanks

 

[racerone]

I always recommend a new impeller on a " new to you " motor.--------No telling if previous owner ran it dry just to show that it runs to a buyer.------------Just a few nuts and bolts to change it and well worth doing yourself.

 

[Captain Thad]

I was wanting to just run this season... Then change it in the fall.... Is there a way of telling if it's strong or weak?

 

[racerone]

?????-------You can rely on the warning horn I guess.---Have you at least tested the warning horn ???

 

[64osby]

A couple hours work for a season of boating cooling insurance.

 

[racerone]

Over the years I have met many folks who wanted to learn about outboard maintenance the hard way.--------------That way is through an empty wallet !!!

 

[Captain Thad]

I was reading the manual it says basically loosen the shifter bolt then there is 5 bolts down at the lower unit then it (lower unit) should just come right on out?From there its just replacing the pump.
anyone else have any insight on this?

 

[racerone]

Removing the starter is helpful to get at the shift rod connecting screw.

 

[Captain Thad]

Thanks Racerone

 

[Bosunsmate]

Easy job, just make sure you align the water tube into the right hole as you reinstall, If it doesnt want to push in completely just turn the flywheel a touch to get the driveshaft splines realigned.
If that doesnt fix your issue, then check thermostat and poppet valve and also that the outlet t is at the top of the engine.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...aq/228380-johnson-evinrude-adding-a-tell-tale

Always start with the impellor

 

[Captain Thad]

Thanks BOSUNMATE your talking to an ET here!.... hey any suggestions on what i can use instead of a vise to hold the lower unit? I dont have a vise as i see some people talk of. Im gearing up to do this in MAY. looks i will need a pump for the gearcase lube.. the gearcase lube.. I plan on getting a new water pump housing and all because i dont know what the last guy did. This thing is running fine.. im just doing this all as a precautionary... any other suggestions?

 

[Bosunsmate]

I just lie mine on the ground on blankets, i dont have a vise either.
You will need one of those fluid pumps to pump the lube up from the bottom, I got mine for $5
Dont go near the phlilips head screw as that will unhook all the connections inside the gearcase.
Not really much else apart from check all the wires for any fraying, the ones coming out from the flywheel necklace often get frayed as they turn with the timing link and when they fry through they will short to ground or break which can leave you stranded.
Also if its a saltie, unfortunately this website doesnt say where people a from anymore, then td be a good idea to change the head gasket and clean out the channels there and in the water jacket. Ive a saltie and i do mine every four years.
Also i dont know if thats got a vro, if it does a lot of people on here suggest to premix as those vros fail with catastrophic effect

 

[Bosunsmate]

Anogther thing ive done to hold it upright when ive needed too is to put it against the wall and push the washing machine against it

 

[Captain Thad]

Great ideas on the vise Bosunmate... I'm not sure I have wires going down? My service manual says nothing of it??? But then again I'm a rookie! As for salt... I in Omaha Nebraska... No salt. I believe my model is J40E?CC. I HAVE A request into Evinrude to Identify model ...I found serial #. I do have VRO ...ITS DIABLED and am mixing my own gas.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Il clarify that, It shouldnt have wires down there, i was just meaning up by the powerhead.
Theres a Omaha here in New Zealand, its a little town by the sea
Regarding model number, the waterpump/impellor may have a number on it, they often do. Sometimes, but rarely, people swap lower units between some engines so the new parts ordered dont fit. I often take my impellor into a shop when ive just bought it so i can be sure it matches up properly. But dont worry too much about that as its not a common thing and normally happens on older engines where gearcases have worn out and being replaced

 

[racerone]

To work on a lower unit you would take a piece of plywood and cut a slot in it to support the lower unit.--Or you could take a couple of 2 X 4 's and nail them to a work bench spaced about 2" apart.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Also with a waterpump, in case you didnt know, at idle the boat sits lower in the water so the water level goes up the leg to submerge the pump which is well above the cavitation plate, this therefore provides the water to it which lubricates it. When you go fast the boat lifts out of the water and the pump goes higher but water is now forced by the speed of the boat up into the pump to keep it lubricated.

What many people do is start their motor before its in the water.

Some people do that here, probably to try and show off the sound of the engine before they tilt it down,, what i assume they dont know is that the impellor is then spinning at a few thosuand rpm with no lubrication. So that wears it out extremely fast. So the other thing to take from that is if you use a barrel to flush, run your moto,r make sure the water is at least half wayish up the leg as there is no forward speed to force the water up the water pump channel when its sitting in a barrel.
Also if you arent using the motor for a while turn the flywheel half a turn every few weeks to make sure the impellor doesnt set, it needs to be flexible to work

 

[Bosunsmate]

The waterpump doesnt suck up unlike centrifugal pumps like the one on my farm here for instance, the boat motor pump needs water to get to it before it can push it up

 

[Captain Thad]

Thanks Bosunmate...question on this thread. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...ter-pump-kit-grease-sealant-and-lube?t=195306

Is that saying
triple guard grease
needle bearing grease
and moly lube
are all the same? My manual calls for all those somewhere?

And the sealant seems that u can get at automotive place

 

[Bosunsmate]

In terms of grease for the waterpump, i just put a bit on the threads of the bolts, antiseize would be better, not sure what else needs grease. Gear oil is just the $8 500ml bottles obtainable from most car and boat shops, its just gear oil with a few more additives to help in case of water ingress.
I occasionally put a bit of gasket sealant on the spaghetti seal if the plates a bit bent, but if you get a new kit all them will be fine anyhow.