which motor to buy???

[Eoughphily]

Hi guys,

I am new to iboats, and new to boating. I just recently purchased my first boat. It is an older StarCraft 14' aluminum, rated for 15hp max. I took it on its first voyage yesterday, and it was a lot of fun. However all I have to get around are oars. I am ready to put a motor on it, but I am not sure what yo get as money is a factor. I have been saving and researching for the last month for a motor. I have narrowed it down to three, but I can't decide on which I want. All three motors are in good shape, good compress, and good lower ends.

The first is a 1956 15 hp evinrude. It seems to have been well taken care of, beautiful paint job, looks good on the inside. Comes with the pressure fuel tank, but no dual fuel line and connector. The motor is $225, and I have found the tank, lines, and connector for $80, so $305 total.

The second is a 1958 Johnson 10 HP, looks almost as good as the evinrude mentioned above, but sells for $150 and comes with the tank, hose, and connector.

The third is a little newer, 1974 mercury 9.8 HP. Has a few small dings, but overall looks good on the outside. The inside is very clean, never ran in salt water. This one sells for $350.

I don't know much about motors, but am very eager to learn as I love learning new things and am looking for a challenge and some fun as well. I like the evinrude 15 hp for the power, the johnson 10 HP for the cost, and the 9.8 HP mercury for the newer age.

Can you give me your opinions on which motor I should purchase for my boat?

 

[racerone]

A lot has to do with how much work you can and want to do yourself.--------If you have to run to a shop for all repairs then none are a suitable motor.

 

[F_R]

Both the Evinrude and Johnson need new coils unless they have already been replaced. ALL OMC motors of that vintage do. Depending on what's already been done, expect to have to do a complete tune-up (ignition & fuel systems), and a water pump. The 1956 15hp is notorious for failure of the lower crankshaft seal, which lets water into the crankcase, causing catastrophic damage. No problem if you replace it before that happens. The 10hp is notorious for beating the wrist pins loose in the pistons. Repairable but $$$. Also, the '58-up 10hp is notorious for lower unit wear. Again, no problem if it hasn't happened and has been properly cared for. Having said all that, they both are excellent motors if in good condition....which is everything. Just so you know what to look out for.

As for the Merc, I don't know so much about that one.

 

[Eoughphily]

A lot has to do with how much work you can and want to do yourself.--------If you have to run to a shop for all repairs then none are a suitable motor.

I have no problem with doing any of the work myself. But it will be all learning for me as I don't know anything about boat motors except what I have read.

 

[Sea Rider]

Don't buy oldies, get a good second hand 2 stroke Tohatsu 18 HP, will beat any other brand 15 any time...

Happy Boating

 

[pckeen]

[Don't buy oldies, get a good second hand 2 stroke Tohatsu 18 HP, will beat any other brand 15 any time...

Happy Boating/QUOTE]

Buying a much newer motor is always good advice, as reliability on the water can't be over-rated, but I'm assuming you prefer to pay under $400, rather than the $1000-$2500 that a new or nearly new motor will cost you.

Given the choice between the three, go for the Merc. Personally, I'm partial to Johnson and Evinrudes, but it will be harder to find parts for the 50s motors you are looking at. Some parts will no longer be available new, whereas you should be able to find all of the parts for that 70s Merc. There were also a lot of improvements in motors between the 50s and 70s. At that price, the Merc should start up and run well. Be prepared to replace coils and rebuild a carb on a motor that age.

 

[Crosbyman]

let's get some perspective here...imho

oldies are fun to fix up,,,great hobby during winter months
oldies are strong motors,,,they lasted till today
oldies were made by the millions and parts are everywhere one wishes to look for
old dual line tanks can be converted in 2 hours of fun for 50$
oldies have all the support you need free on the aomci site and this one
oldies don't make you cry a lot when they die or get stolen .
canadian oldies are mostly fresh water engines (no salt corrosion) Get the book CHEAP OUTBOARDS by Max E Wawrzniak isbn 978-1-891369-62-9

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/...x/articles.htm
http://www.agott.com/glassboat/manuals.html
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/max/index6.htm

 

[Eoughphily]

I appreciate the help full advise. Ifi could afford a newer motor I surely would get one. As for parts for older motors, I am finding a lot more support and availability of parts for the evinrude/Johnson motors. I just checked out the merc and wasn't exactly pleased with what I saw. It took starter fluid to get it started and when it did start it would soon get lower and lower on rpms and die within a minute or two. Couldn't get it into reverse when not running, and while running he had to slam it in and the motor jumped a lot and then would come back out of reverse. From my understanding the evinrudes/Johnsons are built like a tank. Another factor that tilts me towards the 56 evinrude is the age. Try working on a new car vs an old car, which is easier to work on...lol. any additional advise is always appreciated, thanks guys.

 

[racerone]

????-----When I look up the parts for the 70's Mercury motors many parts are listed as no longer available !!!----Many common parts for the older motor from OMC are are on the shelf at old time dealers.

 

[Eoughphily]

No Title

Thank you for your input, it really helped me make my decision on which motor to buy. I purchased the 1956 15 hp evinrude

 

[redneck joe]

Pretty nice looking

 

[pckeen]

That's a nice looking engine, and someone's already done the resto for you.

 

[64osby]

Get a set of decals to finish it off.

Nice looking motor. Have fun with it.

The late 50's motor run great if you give them a little love.

 

[Eoughphily]

No Title

I picked me up a spare motor for parts just in case. It is a fixer upper, but it was cheap. Its a 1958 Johnson 18hp. Does anybody have any pointers for removing the flywheel so I can inspect the coils/electrical?

 

[racerone]

I believe there is an inspection plate on top of the flywheel.

 

[Eoughphily]

No Title

I picked up a wheel bearing puller and got the flywheel off today. I was able to get a visual on the coils with the inspection plate prior to removing the flywheel. Got a set of coils, points, and condensors on the way, should be arriving on Monday. Can't wait

 

[64osby]

Take note of the coils exact position and install the new ones to match. Clean the contacts on new points with acetone be for you install them

I've done more than a few do it right the first time and it will run for years.

 

[Eoughphily]

I have done a lot of research to make sure I do it right the first time. Quite a bit of exactly what I need to know I found on this forum. Particular advice stating how the coils need to be flush with the mounts, which is upper and lower, how to set the timing/gap on the points. Got everything removed from the magneto plate and got that all cleaned up. New coils, condensors, and points arriving tomorrow. Unfortunately after I made the order I discovered the sierra points don't come with wick oiler...doh!! Found one I can purchase separately for $1.53. Just won't show up when everything else does. Also have a seloc manual on the way . The shifting lever is broken (used one on the way) is there an easy way to replace that, or does it involve removing the power head and disengaging the internal shifting mechanisms?

 

[64osby]

The shift handle can be easily replaced. If the shaft needs to be replaced then the powerhead needs to come off.

 

[Eoughphily]

No Title

Here is what I am looking at. When I pull on the old broken what's left of the handle, it moves the shaft with it. Should that just pull off without the shaft?